Beavermill conversion to CNC

I have been working on the main spindle assembly.
I change it to a toothed drive pulley instead of a V belt.
But as I find out this is not as easy as it looks.
First I redesigning the assembly in my new CAD/CAM module.

The first thing I did was making the core pieces to combine the different pulleys together .

Next thing I did was drill the pulleys.

I had to make a groove in the soft jaws so the pulleys would fit in to it.
And turn it to the right dimension of my pulley.

It is very important centering the piece so the deviation is minimal in this case 0.02mm both in axial and radial direction.
The belt will run smooth and with less vibrations.

Now the workpiece is ready for ruffing out and finishing .

Measuring our workpiece is very important in this case I want to have about 0.02mm play so there will be enough space to glue everything together with a strong adhesive .

Now it is time for facing the workpiece and break sharp edges .
I find it one of the most important things a good machinist got to do (break sharp edges) so our workpiece looks as it coming out a factory and not looks like it came out of the bin.
Kind regards,
Andre.


Experience is the sum of stupidities you have done.

After we made a keyway in the core piece of the motor side we started to glue all the pieces together .

Now it is time for some drilling operations.
First thing to do is make sure your workpiece is correct centered .
The next thing I do is make a centerhole.
Drill with the right size so the holes who needs tapping also can be don.
And break sharp edges.

After we put in some pins with glue we put the assembly back on the lathe to remove the rest of the pins .

I checked if all the parts are proper aligned .

I made in both assembly a M 5 hole so I could glue a screw in it.
So things can not start to move .

Now it is time to assemble everything with new bearings and tryout the belt.

And some more.

We had to adjust the coverplate of the top bearing to get some space for the lock nuts.
I made the two nuts in a way that i can use a SKF wrench .
one the bottom nut I will connect the speed sensor .
I also had to make a spacer to adjust the height of the top bearing.
Kind regards,
Andre.


Experience is the sum of stupidities you have done.

After reading through this thread last night, I've got to say I'm very impressed!

Hello everyone,
I started also a new blog about this build on my own domain and then you will need no login to see the pictures and drawings.
There will also be more pictures and explanations as on MYCNCUK.
The blog will be up to date in a few days.
If you have questions about my build I will try to answer them on my blog.
The site is; http://www.4hobbycnc.be
I hope you find it interesting .
Kind regards,
Andre.
Experience is the sum of stupidities you have done.

Attn Andre :

Sorry to reply to such an old thread, but on page 10 and 11 of this thread you show manufacturer of the none standard motor base. I am in the situation where I have to replace the motor on my Beaver VBRP MkII and that flange is a big problem. I'm considering making a flange and mounting a standard, more modern, motor on it. My question - is there any chance you still have a drawing of the motor adaptor flange you made please. It would be most appreciated, thanks.

I guess there's a possibility that the flange does have a standard name, but I haven't seen one at all. Motor plate says :

Brook Motors
Frame DNV 164
Serial L625484
208-220 volts, 6.6 amps
440 volts, 3.3 amps
Full speed 1730 rpm
Cycles 60
Rating INT
HP 2.0


Peter