The mail man drop a package this Tuesday !:angel:
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The mail man drop a package this Tuesday !:angel:
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Hi Nick,
You just made me regret not buying a UB1.
Keep up the good work!
Grtz. Bert.
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Sorry Bert,I didn't have this intention!
To much heat at the workshop this time of year,so I am going to start the electronics wirring .
Any diagram to follow?
Wooohooo :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
Nice!
Also good to see progress. I like the motormount, how did you cut it ? :)
About the circuit diagram.. do you want minimal but good or somewhat more elaborate?
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I was lucky with the motor mount ,I just too advantage of the one end of the heavy duty aluminum beam,it was made like that and I cut it with the grind cutter.
About the diagram I want some thing that will work and not burn any driver or something else,haha
I followed this schematic
https://image.ibb.co/jthYfG/tapatalk_1511816242127.jpg
Its made by a forummember "euricain" I Think..
Then there is this from jazz https://image.ibb.co/bxXMZb/tapatalk_1511818717673.jpg
And I also found lots of inspiration from this. I think it was routercnc that made this one..
https://image.ibb.co/hex2qG/tapatalk_1511815713547.jpg
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Thanks Robert.
I had the number one and number three schematic,thanks for the second one.
Can I ask why you follow the first schematic?
Yes the last one is mine. Since then I’ve changed the Z drive to DQ860MA to match the others and run off the 68V supply. That allowed me to remove the 30V supply.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
As my new Mk4 machine uses 2 Z steppers I’ve added another DQ860MA drive off the same supply so there are 5 drives in total. Otherwise all the safety relays and interlocks are the same. Works well.
I was set on using the schematic from jazz since I started my build.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
Then I read the thread about the first I posted and thought it made sense..
The one from routercnc has alot of extra benefits like bleed resistor and ability to change vfd speed manually.
But I still went with the first :D
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Just a casual observation for anyone looking to re-use these schematics.
Some, probably not all, but certainly the cheap and nasty BoB that I have in front of me (and I've just re-tested) - which provide a 0-10V output to the spindle, and a 12-24V supply to provide this 10V reference on board... will use this same onboard 10V supply to drive the LED anodes on the opto-isolator inputs (so to switch the input, you connect the coupler's LED's cathodes to ground [via sensors, etc]).
My point?, for these cheap BoBs, to use the inputs you still need to supply a 12-24V supply, as well as a 5V supply to the BoB.
Like I said, probably won't apply to all BoBs.
Thanks everyone for the help and the very helpful info, it is time to make my study now... :-)
The last two days we had temperature drop and some rain so I went to workshop and lift the gantry and push the x axis rails in the y axis bearings.
I weighted the gantry out of curiosity and the scale show 32.5 kg with out the spindle and the aluminium plates at the place of mdf,I wonder if the two 4nm motors will be able to move the gantry and cut at acceptable speeds.:-(
To lift the gantry I made some kind of a crane with some scrap metal beams I had in the shop.
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The 4Nm motors are STRONG! no need to worry :D
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I hope or else I will have to rotate the ballscrews with my hands! Haha!!!
Cut the second base for the x axis motor,the right angle is from the aluminium beams,I cut the length I wanted and then separate the square to two angles,each one for each x axis motor.
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Do you guys prefer to mount the electronics direct at the electronic box with screws and nuts, or first on an mdf and then in the box?
Myself - a steel plate mounted on stand-offs mounted into the case. That way you can remove the whole assembly to work on.
Steel plate for ground issues,or because it is more stable?
It's cheap. Just like me!
:thumsup::beer:Quote:
Originally Posted by Doddy
The electronics box I got out the skip had a steel plate in it so I used that, the box is made of GRP.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
Hey where have you been?Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertboy
What is GRP?
Glass Reinforced Plastic (or fibre glass)Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
Thanks,I should have know that acronym......
Got busy at work, these unreasonable customers wanting things lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
Those guys are everywhere! :-P
Anyone here ever build a concrete workbench for his cnc and made a thread?
I show a build posted at a group on Facebook but not with enough info.
Make the diagram according the schematic of Dean and Routercnc and let the wires going and coming from the UC300 ETH-UB1 to drap them at the end,but the UB1 is very complicated for my knowledge and I am stacked...:-(
Damnit! Dont have the ub1 so I can't help you. Hate running into trouble so I hope you can get this party started!
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Hi Nick.
Can you list the parts you have and want to hook up to the ub1?
UB1 eliminates some stuff like the need for multi psu's and make things a little more straight forward.
So when you list parts people can start helping you.
Grtz Bert.
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Yes Bert what you say it's true, UB1 needs only 24volts which converts it to 5 volt , with some restrictions,has on board 3 relays , from those you can control a sequence , powering up power relays etc.and other features.
My problem is that it is more complicated than the one and only 5$ bob I have ever install, at my previews cnc and also much more expensive, the last one makes me more nervous to experiment! I must be a 100% sure before power it up!
My parts are:
2x AM882H
2X AM882
1x78Volts PSU 7Amps
2x12 volt psu 330watt
HY VFD with 2.2kw water cooled spindle
water pump...etc.
I hope I did n't forget a major component , if i remember something I will edit my post.
Thanks,Nick.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
Hi Robert!
With all the helpful guys at this forum I am sure that something good is going to come up!
Do you really mean 78v with AM882 drivers !!Quote:
1x78Volts PSU 7Amps
Hi Clive.
If I recall right ,PSU is rated somewhere between 74 to 78volts,is the power too high?
Also I forgot to mention the 4x 4NM motors.
That is a little high for AM882 drive 68v is more realisticQuote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
Any home switches?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
Do you want to control spindle speed by 0-10v?
Estop?
Air valves?
cooling pumps?
Grtz. Bert
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Right now I have the Estop ,NPN proximity switches and water pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by driftspin
I will add all the rest ,everything I can add and also a potentiometer for spindle speed control.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
Clive,my mistake,psu delivers lower voltage than this i mention.
Thanks for watching my back.
I posted this some time ago. #1 http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7388-...se-Spindle-VFDQuote:
I can add and also a potentiometer for spindle speed control.