Newbie looking at 6040 (China CNC) for polypropylene 15mm sheet

FUCKKKK
Just snapped the probe.

Anyone know if there are other probe ends that fit this one?
http://www.kurokesu.com/shop/precision_instruments/TPA2

Wow the local aluminium specialist wants 3-5x the price of AW xD

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JOGARA

Wow the local aluminium specialist wants 3-5x the price of AW xD

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Must be going to wrong suppliers because nearly any decent stockist will be cheaper than AW.
Give ASC metals a ring and ask if they deliver out your way.

http://www.ascmetals.com/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Must be going to wrong suppliers because nearly any decent stockist will be cheaper than AW.
Give ASC metals a ring and ask if they deliver out your way.

http://www.ascmetals.com/

---

Well, I just ordered 5 bits off this local company for some soft jaws.
Worked out cheaper at 5 quantity than AW.

Sent ASC an email too. Thanks for the sugetion.

Quotes so far for 15mm 5083 plate...

Company	150x105	112x108	Postage
AW	£5.43	£4.17	£12.95
Local Ali stock	£10.75	£9.25	Collection
ASC	£5.50	£3.50	£10
Brindley Metals	£6.80	£6.10	£20

6082 is better to machine.

Why don't you get 6" x 3/4" flat bar billeted and machine all over. It will work out cheaper.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jamesgates1000

6082 is better to machine.

Why don't you get 6" x 3/4" flat bar billeted and machine all over. It will work out cheaper.

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idk

Always used "eco cast" from AW. Apparently, it is 5083 but ground?

Need to look into types of alloys. Hoping there is a decent YouTube video on it. Will check later.
Just finished a part with the new vice and it is looking amazing!
So much better than the drill press vice xD

I'd post photos but my phone died...

Here is the area of the part I was having problems with.
The chamfer would be uneven. Now it is perfect.

https://s10.postimg.cc/sj7eq4qa1/IM...550549_HDR.jpg



This is my contraption.
https://s10.postimg.cc/y7dph12c9/IM...143803_HDR.jpg

I know a few will laugh but it works really well....

Would prefer to machine the top in the vice and then flip in the vice.
I hate the super glue and the removal of it (which even on fresh plastic is scuffing up the surface finish)
Will try it once I have some soft jaws.


Also, I got yelled at for running this tiny cut without lubricant..
https://www.instagram.com/p/BenMhMghCqq/

Making some nice chips...

https://s10.postimg.cc/vzrlhapbd/IM...853120_HDR.jpg

6mm, 25mm Flute. There is a bit of chatter when it goes Z- 10mm. But is holding up fine.
I used a 6mm carbide drill to pre drill the holes. Worked out really well. Only a hair width of gap between the endmill and the stock but never heard it cut anything when dropping into the hole.
The 6mm drill bit is pushing the machine a tad. Can see it flex at 0.2mm Feed per Revolution. Dropped it to 50% in Mach3 and it still flexed but very little.

New Styli just arrived. Trying out the Renishaw ones as they are distributed and possibly manufactured in the UK?
The cheapest M3 with 3mm ball is 21.2mm long (ball end being closer to 2.9mm diameter than 3mm, this typical?).

The shorter length actually works well for me as with the new vice installed, I don't have much Z height anymore.

https://www.renishaw.com/shop/Produc...ct=A-5000-3553

£49 for 2 probes, shipped next day (I ordered past 5pm so same say shipped) and was sent first so arrived today.
Bit better than the 100 Euro the dude who makes these probes quoted me for a single Styli...


https://preview.ibb.co/k6Nuyx/IMG_20..._151414040.jpg


[edit]
Shipped same day if ordered before 2:30 pm and they are made in the UK.
I have an image just above of the Styli but image host is playing up.

FFS it did it again.

Jogging the machine towards the part, and it carries on. The remote shut off so you can't stop it till it decides to stop its self after 2-3 seconds.

And today was going good till now...


https://s10.postimg.cc/tukq2vtfd/IM...852742_HDR.jpg

https://s10.postimg.cc/hfxy2jmhl/IM...524828_HDR.jpg

https://s10.postimg.cc/v9marl7d5/IM...031394_HDR.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JOGARA

FFS it did it again.

Jogging the machine towards the part, and it carries on. The remote shut off so you can't stop it till it decides to stop its self after 2-3 seconds.

And today was going good till now...


https://s10.postimg.cc/tukq2vtfd/IM...852742_HDR.jpg

https://s10.postimg.cc/hfxy2jmhl/IM...524828_HDR.jpg

https://s10.postimg.cc/v9marl7d5/IM...031394_HDR.jpg

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Nice. Looks like the vice is giving you much better results so worth every penny if it gets the job done.

For chatter if you're using HSM toolpaths full depth and shallow step over try using a bigger 8mm or 10mm tool. 6mm drill should be absolutely fine, I have absolutely zero problems doing a 6.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Snapper

Nice. Looks like the vice is giving you much better results so worth every penny if it gets the job done.

For chatter if you're using HSM toolpaths full depth and shallow step over try using a bigger 8mm or 10mm tool. 6mm drill should be absolutely fine, I have absolutely zero problems doing a 6.

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Yea it was a sound investment.

While it sounded like there was chatter, I could not feel anything in the part. Though I did do a contour finishing pass which would have hidden it I guess.

As for HSM, idk if that is what I am doing or not. Not sure what classes HSM. Currently I am taking a DOC that is 50% the width of the tool with a 45% step over.


The only problem I am having ATM is doing a chamfer. For some reason it is quite uneven around the part.
Looks like the part when clamped is lifting a hair but even so, it is low on that corner.
Can only guess that it is not being perfectly probed or the vice is out by a hair?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JOGARA

Yea it was a sound investment.

While it sounded like there was chatter, I could not feel anything in the part. Though I did do a contour finishing pass which would have hidden it I guess.

As for HSM, idk if that is what I am doing or not. Not sure what classes HSM. Currently I am taking a DOC that is 50% the width of the tool with a 45% step over.


The only problem I am having ATM is doing a chamfer. For some reason it is quite uneven around the part.
Looks like the part when clamped is lifting a hair but even so, it is low on that corner.
Can only guess that it is not being perfectly probed or the vice is out by a hair?

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If you're using fusion, use the adaptive tool path for clearing metal out. I've cut down to 13mm Doc with my OMIO, between 0.3/0.4mm step over. You can go wider if you're cutting shallower. Better for tool life too as you're using more of the tool than just constantly using the tip.

Skim off the top of the part so it's all perpendicular to your gantry and spindle then your chamfers should be even. A light rub with sandpaper and a quick splash with polish to remove the tool marks and it will look much better than the grainy texture on the top of the extrusion as well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Snapper

If you're using fusion, use the adaptive tool path for clearing metal out. I've cut down to 13mm Doc with my OMIO, between 0.3/0.4mm step over. You can go wider if you're cutting shallower. Better for tool life too as you're using more of the tool than just constantly using the tip.

Skim off the top of the part so it's all perpendicular to your gantry and spindle then your chamfers should be even. A light rub with sandpaper and a quick splash with polish to remove the tool marks and it will look much better than the grainy texture on the top of the extrusion as well.

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I'll give that a go tomorrow.
I am cutting 15mm deep so try 7.5mm at around .5-.6mm step over?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JOGARA

I'll give that a go tomorrow.
I am cutting 15mm deep so try 7.5mm at around .5-.6mm step over?

---

Should be fine with that. Just play a bit and see what works. One tip, try and square your spindle to the vice, don't spend hours getting it as precise as humanly possible, just 2 minutes with a dual gauge to get it there or there abouts as it will shift out of alignment anyway within about 30 seconds. I do it before every job I want to look half decent. But if you've been jogging into things it's likely to have got knocked well off and that's an invitation for bad chatter.

Also make sure your spindle, collets and nut are squeaky clean for your finishing tools, and if your collet is old and been bashed about, get a new one. They're only tuppence on eBay.

8mm DOC, 0.5mm max stepover.
Cut fine, no noise, looks like I can go deeper.
Going to attempt 1mm. Can always pull it back.

This is much better than the 1hour+ than before. Down to 15mins now :)

The spindle is out but only by a hair. I can feel on the contour pass a slight line going around 2 sides of the part.
I have lowered the contour pass to take 4 depths instead of 2, this fixed that problem last time.


https://s10.postimg.cc/ao4cv7eqh/IM...439790_HDR.jpg

https://s10.postimg.cc/5cpgai0dl/IM...500237_HDR.jpg

https://s10.postimg.cc/ouk3qgkgp/IM...514144_HDR.jpg



I am also getting this again on the contor. I have a 10mm finishing overlap. But I used default lead-in. I have upped that to 2mm. Hopefully that stops that.

https://s10.postimg.cc/mfs86az5l/IM...207529_HDR.jpg

And yes, I forgot to go -0.1mm on the contor pass so there is a bur going around the bottom of the part. The roughing pass went -0.2mm, so I normally set -0.1mm for the finishing endmill.

Are you using tooling plate to cut your parts from? That must be costing you a bloody fortune!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Snapper

Are you using tooling plate to cut your parts from? That must be costing you a bloody fortune!

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Its not much more than standard Alu. The fact that its reasonably flat has many benefits.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chaz

Its not much more than standard Alu. The fact that its reasonably flat has many benefits.

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This /\


Wanted to reduce my machining time so was faster to have the top and bottom already finished.
That being said, sometimes one side does have marks on it that won't work for a finsihed product.
Most of the time it is only on one side so I mill into that side while leaving the pretty face the to outer face that I see.

What I might be moving towards is bar stock so I can grab it in my vice and not have to glue my stock to a large plate.
Though I like maching the top and bottom at the same time as there are 4-5 tool changes.

If I have ATC then that would not be a problem...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chaz

Its not much more than standard Alu. The fact that its reasonably flat has many benefits.

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Maybe for little odd jobs but for production? At a guess it's about 50% dearer than just buying a bar isn't it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Snapper

Maybe for little odd jobs but for production? At a guess it's about 50% dearer than just buying a bar isn't it?

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Going off AW, 5083 bar worked out more expensive than Plate.
Both cut to size.

This is AW though...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Snapper

Maybe for little odd jobs but for production? At a guess it's about 50% dearer than just buying a bar isn't it?

---

Nowhere near 50% more like 10% if that and the savings in machine time can easily justify that. I rarely buy bar stock anymore

Keep getting this strange behaviour from the machine.

Just keeps stuttering, even when just going along a straight path on 1 axis it will judder a lot.
Does it every so often and most of the time I have to turn it off and on again.

Any ideas?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JOGARA

Keep getting this strange behaviour from the machine.

Just keeps stuttering, even when just going along a straight path on 1 axis it will judder a lot.
Does it every so often and most of the time I have to turn it off and on again.

Any ideas?

---

https://photos.app.goo.gl/uAcR70B7vQtYLvs22

Sounds like chatter to me..

Correct it is resonance. Either lower your rpm or up your feedrate.....a lot. This is where having a machine with no rigidity and physical weight plays a big part and restricts what you can do, there is only so far you can push a machine like that.

Just noticed my RPM was 12k not 6k xD

Not sure what I am doing wrong here.
It worked before but for some reason is not now...

I am cutting out some holes for some components in the rear of my case.
I am using a 4mm roughing bit to do this (the rough edges help in this case).

I have my part upright in the vice and around 10-15mm clearance luckily.

Here is what it is showing in F360.
https://s10.postimg.cc/m3zacyebt/Capture.png

Here is the Gcode;

Code:

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(T5  D=4. CR=0. - ZMIN=-3.5 - FLAT END MILL)
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G21
G28 G91 Z0.
G90

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G3 X25.163 Y21.284 Z-3.48 I-0.395 J-0.066
X25.099 Y21.375 Z-3.424 I-0.356 J-0.183
X25.032 Y21.433 Z-3.335 I-0.292 J-0.273
X24.983 Y21.461 Z-3.224 I-0.225 J-0.331
X24.965 Y21.469 Z-3.1 I-0.176 J-0.359
G0 Z15.

M9
G28 G91 Z0.
G28 X0. Y0.
M30

---

For some reason. It plunges into the part and then starts the helix.
The tool Z height is set to the top of the part, and Mach3 confirms this. But Mach3 plunges the bit into the part.

Any ideas?

Quote:

---

(T5 D=4. CR=0. - ZMIN=-3.5 - FLAT END MILL)
G90 G94 G91.1 G40 G49 G17
G21
G28 G91 Z0.
G90

(POCKET1)
M5
M9
T5 M6
S6000 M3
G54
M7
G0 X22.399 Y9.291
G43 Z15. H2
Z5.
G1 Z4.6 F100.
G3 X22.398 Y9.272 Z4.479 I1.9 J-0.031 F150.

---

Sticking my neck out a bit here.
Seems strange that you have a Z5 then a Z4.6 (I would expect this to be -ve value) I see you have tool length comp on with the G43 Z15. H2 is this correct in your tool table

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Clive S

Sticking my neck out a bit here.
Seems strange that you have a Z5 then a Z4.6 (I would expect this to be -ve value) I see you have tool length comp on with the G43 Z15. H2 is this correct in your tool table

---

errrrr You have lost me I am afraid... xD





Also getting this line down one side of my part. Pretty deep and you can see that reflect in the chamfer on top of the part.
You might think that it is because the contour starts or stops here, but it doesn't...
Any ideas?

https://s10.postimg.cc/lckidelu1/IM..._124500223.jpg
https://s10.postimg.cc/4ot0atjbt/Capture.png

Great. Now I am getting "Is the Xpod inserted OK?" all the time. Can't continue the job as it lost Y position....

Wont even drill now without producing that error :(

I am also trying to work out how to add outputs to this USB controller card.

Are the outputs the same, as in pin 1 is OUT1 on the card?
Is it pull high or low too?

Not sure what is going on but it keep losing X machine cords.

My operation has tool changes, I change the tool and set it off the work piece.
I hit run and it slowly goes back to where it stopped the contour or chamfer and then it fucks off somewhere, sometimes crashing the machine...

No idea about electrics, not my thing.

But tool changes. Share a bit of your g-code where it happens.

Got in contact with Mach and they suggest that it is me moving the axis while it is waiting to start the next operation.
No idea why it would move the machine cords but Reddit also agrees that Mach3 does not like to move mid Gcode...

Switched back to splitting my code into multiple files for each tool. Worked fine. Doesn't add time, does increase the possibility of me picking the wrong file though xD

Not sure if it's the same problem, but something like this happens with the CSMIO motion controllers when you do a tool-change invoiving a touch-off operation - it just gets confused. Fortunately, the answer in that case is to "upgrade" to a slightly earlier version of Mach3. I'm now running .028 (from memory) and that works absolutely fine. M6 tool-changes with touch-off tool setting aren't a problem.

Not sure if you are seeing the same or closely-related problem, but might be worth looking at. Life is easier if you don't have to switch files!

Busy week.
Would have been quicker if it wasn't so cold...
Another 2 operations to do in each side and then tumbling and anodising.

https://s10.postimg.cc/n82fdp5i1/IM..._114830681.jpg
https://s10.postimg.cc/c8h821pcp/IM...347953_HDR.jpg

Because it's not part of the program. It's a little bit like you going for a walk in dense forest, you know where you are because you have a map, but then someone blind folds you and dumps you in a different position with no reference where you have come from.... you are then lost.

Some controllers will let you move out of position and others wont, it's highly controller dependent.

The normal thing to do is program a tool change position.

Example

Z 50.
X-100. Y100. (or were you want to tool to go for a safe tool change position)
Then a program suspend or stop.

Change tool... resume program.

But as we don't know what you procedure is, its hard to know exactly what you are doing.

Again it's not working as you think it should, but the controller is not the problem in this case.