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Hi all,
I've emailed the craftsman directly (and for all I know he may frequent this forum) but no reply as yet so thought I'd ask here - I'm after some info on how to acheive this particular finish:
Attachment 11501
Image linked from: Artmin Design at the Mini CNC Machining Centre
It's bloody lovely!
Wal.
That looks like powder coat or enamelling - you could try masking it after cutting and then paint the non-masked bits or cut say 0.5mm deeper than needed, then powder coat/paint/enamel the whole thing and then take the 0.5mm off in a facing operation?
Machine it, paint with enamel and then finish with fine wet'n'dry, upside down on a flat plate ?
Adrian.
Maybe it has a clear coat that gives it the shine and stops the bare metal oxidising ?
Adrian, I'm hearing ya - it's not rocket science - but it's the subtle techniques that interest me and make these look as good as they do. I mean, check this guy out:
Austin Barnett's Awesome Custom CNC Car Badges - CNCCookbook CNC Blog CNCCookbook CNC Blog
Essentially he's painting and sanding back...
w./
> Essentially he's painting and sanding back...
And polishing, and polishing, and polishing :-)
Adrian.
Water clear casting resin with pigments would work and shringe into recess.
Looks very much like styrene resin with black colourant.
This is definitely resin, not paint.
On the cheap- polyester, even better-polyurethane, best-epoxy. Pigmented of course. Pour, dry, sand/ scrape on flat/, polish ,clear coat- is the correct sequence.
PS. Seeing that is for automotive, epoxy would be best. UV resistant or at least UV resistant lacquer on top.
Heh, two years on and I've finally got around to having a play with some cold-enamel / epoxy resin in-filling. I bought 250g of resin, 250g of hardener and a pot a opaque black paste from Cookson Gold in the Jewellery Quarter, Birmingham.
The object is a key-ring that I've made for a mate of mine:
Attachment 18995
Attachment 18997
Attachment 18996
I'm 85% happy with the results - the epoxy itself is amazing stuff which gives you 45 minutes to work with it and cures fully in 24hrs. I'm more concerned by a couple of small flaws where perhaps the epoxy hasn't flowed sufficiently into the narrower channels - the only way to get it into the detailed areas is to over-fill and encourage it with a cocktail stick - this leaves a fair bit of cleaning-up to do once everything has set which in turn means having to polish the epoxy - it never looks quite as pristine as it would if you'd just poured it and left it alone... Looking forward to using it to fill larger pockets where the metal has been finished pre-pour, but I reckon I'll have to practice a bit more with the smaller scale stuff.
Wal.