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Ive just bought this ac servo motor and matching drive.
There are no cables but I have bought the connectors and was going to make them up. Looking around I have seen a few threads that say to make sure the cables are included. is there a reason why I cant make them up?
Main reason is getting the correct connectors can be hard and/or expensive.
The other thing is for reliability, you really want them to be crimped, and not soldered. The proper crimping tools are usually very expensive. Soldering will work, but you run the risk of wires fracturing due to solder creep and wire vibration/flex.
And that's before you consider getting the correct type of cable.
Ah, I see.
I have the connectors but yes they are quite small, its only for the encoder and pc connection so is it that critical on the cable? its a short run to the controller and spec just says to use twisted pair.
The main motor connectors are screw terminals.
No problem soldering the connectors. Depends of course the exact connector type.
You will need a proper soldering iron, if you dont have buy this one is the best buy for the money, no need to browse the hundreds of reviews. thats the one CXG 936D EU Plug 220V 2in1 LCD Adjustable Temperature Digital Electric Solder Iron Soldering Station
If you go for crimping Paron® JX-D4 Multifunctional Ratchet Crimping Tool 26-10 AWG Terminals Pliers Kit
The cheapest /quality/ cable you could buy from TME , Helucabel The link points to the 12core, you could find there the right one for you
The connector names you get from last page of servo manual usually
I think that covers it all. I have bought and have all of the above.
Thanks
I have a temp controlled soldering station and the crimps as well so I'm good to go.
Not sure those crimps will work on the IDC ribbon connectors I have bought?
Do you have the lcd display for setting them up Boyan?
IDC ribbon connectors I normally use a vice. I have used pliers and mole grips in the past, but it's better if you can get the whole connector to crimp square and at once, with control over how quickly the connector closes.
Boyan, those crimping pliers won't cover that many connectors. I've got a set with 12 interchangeable jaws, and it still doesn't cover everything I need it to. I spent most of my life dealing with vehicle electrics, and some terminals just won't work without the correct crimping jaws. And although soldering will work, as I said in my previous post, you risk the wire fatiguing and breaking, especially if it's done poorly.
Unless the connector is designed to be soldered, I would never personally solder it.
Best case scenario if a crimp/solder joint/wire fails, is things stop working. Worst case is the drive and/or motor gets destroyed.
Ultimately how well any method will work, will depend on the final implementation. A cable that is well secured with minimal vibration, doesn't have the same risk of failure as something being constantly vibrated and flexed.
Thanks MC. the connector has two options on the press plate (no idea if that what it called but it the plate that pushes the wire in to the v on the pin) one is complete so looks like the wires have to come out the ends and the other has a slot down the middle which seems the best option for the cables but not sure how best to crimp it.
The motor and drive is for a very small lathe spindle (emco unimat pc) so vibration and movement will be minimal.
Have you got a link/photo of the connectors?
If they're not your typical ribbon cable connector, they may need a punch down tool. If that's the case, something narrow and blunt, like the blunt edge of a Stanley knife blade will usually work.
I put a link in post 3 but not very clear. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-10150-6...c=1&rmvSB=true
Those could be tricky.
If you're using ribbon cable, I'd use something blunt to press it in enough to hold it before fully crimping it in a vice.
Even if you're using non-ribbon cable (you'll have to ensure it's the correct size/strand size of wire), I'd push them in first, otherwise it'll be pretty much impossible to crimp everything at once.
However, I think personally I'd go for the solder version of those connectors, but be warned, they'll be fiddly to solder. You have to solder the inside row of connectors, otherwise the outside row means you can't get the solder iron to the inside rows.
Alternatively if you want to avoid crimping and soldering, you could buy some ready made breakout boards, but they're not cheap for micro d connectors.
The servo connectors i soldered. Now i had burned some wires the first time with my ugly soldering gun. Thats why i recommended a good one. But i guess once you spend a day trying to figure things out and at the end of the day you find the problem is because of your soldering skills, next time you quickly learn to make it properly.
i think my servos use similar or same connector and a soldered it carefully / the second time/ so now all is fine. With good gun, solder and flux,and correct size heat shrinking its not a problem. I extra potted them i believe :tan: using my hot glue gun. I dont like leaving things to chance
The crimp pliers i bought for general use and as i don't use them professionally, till now i haven't found a scenario where they will not serve. Their main purpose was to crimp heated carbon wire to normal heat resistant wire
Thanks MC and Boyan
Wishing I had got the solder version now. Did you connect all the wires or just the ones you need?
Do you have the user LCD for programming? I don't so not sure how to set it up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross77
I made longer 3 of the wires and soldered all the connectors inside. As main problem here is i live 200m from sea and typical humidity is 85% so even crimped connections will fail sometimes.
When i connected 2 cables together and used heat shrink tubing on each core, then i cut in half a proper size silicone tube. Fitted the connection there and potted it with hot glue gun.
You dont need LCD. You need a computer, serial port and special serial cable, check manual of what variety it was, as i remember i needed different variety for the Galil controller.
Samsung servo software is free and self explanatory. For the Galil servo control software you have to pay some 2xx euro additionally for example hence, that's why i said before buying servos check if servo software is free like the Samsung one.