Selection of suitable milling machine for CNC conversion

Hi,
I am in the process of choosing a milling machine for hobby use.
Mainly milling aluminium, and occasional mild steel.
I intend to convert it to CNC in the future.
Part of the reason for wanting to do this is to have a useful tool, much of the reason is the learning exercise.

Space in my garage is limited so I am only looking at small bench top machines.
I do not have the knowledge to take a gamble on a second hand old Ebay purchase.
I have a few under consideration: Sieg SX2.7, Sieg SX3, Warco Major and Axminster ZX30M.
Are there others I should be looking at in this size & price range?

Out of the ones listed...
Which would be the easiest to convert to CNC?
Realistically, what level of accuracy can I expect to achieve for a reasonable price?

The SX2.7 is probably the favorite at the moment.
Would this be a good choice?

Thanks,

Ian. First welcome to the forum you will find it a fountain of knowledge:toot:

I have had and converted a Warco WM18 I have also helped in a conversion of a Seig mill. I used Linuxcnc on both.

There is quite a lot of working in doing a conversion.

Personally I would not go with a round column mill like the Major If you can find a mill with ball screws that would be a big advantage when it comes to conversion. Good luck with that tho.

Have a read through some of the build logs and do some research before buying anything. (as you are doing)

"Avoid round column" seems to be the general consensus. One of the reasons why sx2.7 is currently top of my list. Thanks.

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Originally Posted by Clive S

If you can find a mill with ball screws that would be a big advantage when it comes to conversion. Good luck with that tho.

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Wouldn't that be because unlike lead screws ball screws turn fairly easily in response to force applied to their axis unless a significant holding torque is applied?

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Originally Posted by magicniner

Wouldn't that be because unlike lead screws ball screws turn fairly easily in response to force applied to their axis unless a significant holding torque is applied?

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I wish we all had your wisdom:

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Originally Posted by Clive S

I wish we all had your wisdom:

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I think he means that they can be back driven more easily from the cutting forces. Or for the Z axis may tend to drop under their own weight.
I think lead screws would be most likely be fitted over ballscrews on a manual machine just due to cost.

Yes avoid the round column as you loose position when adjusting in Z.

I’ve not looked at the sx2.7 but wm16 or 18 are top of my list should I get a mill as they look well made (and would match all the Warco stuff I have!)

Hi Ian,
I am currently converting a Warco GH universal. I have it all in CAD and would be happy to explain how and what I have done so far.
Regards Simon

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

I have never looked properly at the Warco range.
The GH universal is too big for the space I have available, but the WM16 and 18 may be an option.
I think Warco exhibit at the Midlands Model Engineer Exhibition. I will go and have a look at their lathes then.

Thanks Simon for the offer. I will remember that when nearer the time to start. It could be very helpful.

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Originally Posted by Clive S

I wish we all had your wisdom:

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I though you'd be interested in a basic feature of the technology almost everyone here is interested in using, would you rather I followed the advice of W.C. Fields? ;-)

There's a European supplier who will supply their machines already fitted with ballscrews (and I think steppers/servos), but I can't remember their name.
IIRC they were based in Austria, but it's been a few years since I looked at their website.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by m_c

There's a European supplier who will supply their machines already fitted with ballscrews (and I think steppers/servos), but I can't remember their name.
IIRC they were based in Austria, but it's been a few years since I looked at their website.

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How do they work manually, given the question to be addressed -

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IanT

Hi,
I am in the process of choosing a milling machine for hobby use.
Mainly milling aluminium, and occasional mild steel.
I intend to convert it to CNC in the future.

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?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by m_c

There's a European supplier who will supply their machines already fitted with ballscrews (and I think steppers/servos), but I can't remember their name.
IIRC they were based in Austria, but it's been a few years since I looked at their website.

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Wabeco, maybe? I think they list a "CNC-ready" vertical mill already fitted with ballscrews.

I'm buying an AMAT25LV from Amadeal when they come in stock.
Was going for the 30LV but can't fit it in yet and the extra rpm on the 25 will suit better. Will replace my X2.
Converting it with ballscrews and steppers 23/34 size to run off Mach3.
If all goes well I will move the Seig X2 conversion and use it primarily for drilling. Then in a year or so replace the X2 with the 25LV and buy a 30 to put in it's place. Might try to sell the X2 if I can bring myself to part with it.
Could do with a lathe really, I want to make new pulleys to bump up the rpm's on both AMAT's. Got a few plans and need a re-jig in the cave.

Keep me out of trouble for a couple of years I suppose :D
If I didn't mind gear noise I'd have got a Warco WM18 by now but being where I am I need as quiet as possible.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cube3

Hi Ian,
I am currently converting a Warco GH universal. I have it all in CAD and would be happy to explain how and what I have done so far.
Regards Simon

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

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. Hi, I am thinking of converting a warco super major, and would be interested in knowing your plans for your conversion. My mill as power on the z axis and x axis, and wonder if I can keep these lead screws in the conversion. Would be glad to hear your views on this. Michael

Hi Michael,
If these are the lead screws that came with the machine then I would suggest that they are not suitable due the backlash. You would have to check to see if they are a buttress style thread, if so then you to change for ballscrews. The Super Major looks the same as my mill so I can provide some guidance and explain how I converted mine.
I have converted mine to a 3 phase motor and VFD, kept the gearbox and can get 3000rpm which help with the smaller cutters. I could get more rpm but I don't want to explode the gearbox!
Do you use CAD, if so what CAD system?
Regards
Simon

Hi, thanks for getting back, yes I do use cad. Solidworks for drawings, fusion 360 or vcurve for g code and mach3 for the machine. I have a large cnc router that I use, but the z axis is very limited so the reason I have the warco. I would be interested in knowing which ball screws you used, what sizes etc, motors you used, in fact all the details. Michael

Hi Terry,
Send an email to simon.m at cubethree.co.uk and I'll send over my CAD in SW2018. I'll also dig out some images of the machining of the casting for the leadscrews.

I used a Bridgeport to machine all in one go the ballscrew mounting features. Used a 90 head to do the end faces. Although a slightly more complicated setup it got everything square and true as best I could.
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I converted my Sieg 2.7 to CNC and I am happy with it.

What can I say, it's Chinese, so you will need to adjust and improve a couple of things here and there, but nothing major, or difficult. I had to grind a bit of the underside of the table to be able to fit the ballscrew, but other than that it was a straight forward conversion. I read this forum extensively to get me acquainted with what drives to get, steppers, etc. and eventually I made my own toroidal PSU as per instructions in this helpful forum.

Don't expect super fast speeds or large widths of cut, it's a small mill after all, but if you are sensible, you can have a nice machine that you will enjoy.
The main negative is that the head is fixed, i'e, it doen't swivel or tilt forward or backward, so for tramming you need to shim the base of the column which requires a little more patience, but quite doable. If you were to get this mill, get the version with the longer table.

I've only just finished my AMAT25. Hopefully start testing it out this week, time permitting.
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Originally Posted by Edward

I converted my Sieg 2.7 to CNC and I am happy with it.

If you were to get this mill, get the version with the longer table.

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I similarly did the SX2.7 - long table version. One word of warning the SX range have the DC brushless motor which causes a problem getting the spindle under NC control - so the S2.7 might be easier. Nice machine once you get it under stepper control.

Most of the mini bench mills have common ancestry within the Chinese foundries... just different paint jobs.


Dazp: That's one hell of an enclosure!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Clive S

Ian. First welcome to the forum you will find it a fountain of knowledge:toot:

I have had and converted a Warco WM18 I have also helped in a conversion of a Seig mill. I used Linuxcnc on both.

There is quite a lot of working in doing a conversion.

Personally I would not go with a round column mill like the Major If you can find a mill with ball screws that would be a big advantage when it comes to conversion. Good luck with that tho.

Have a read through some of the build logs and do some research before buying anything. (as you are doing)

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Hi Clive,
I have just joined mycncuk.
I am new to CNC but have done quite a bit of research on the web
I have a warco wm16 (plus adequately equipped home workshop)
I am planning to convert my warco wm16 to cnc, but I would not know where to start.
Usually people know someone else who knows how to do it and they learn "on the job" whilst that person helps/guides them through it, but I know no one n that field of expertise.
I note that you have converted a wm18, which is the bigger brother to my wm16.
My technical ability is reasonably good, so I think I am up to the job of doing the way once I know how to actually do it.
There are plenty of youtube videos, etc... but none that take you step by step and explain how to actually design, make all the required parts and put it all together with all teh appropriate tolerances, etc...
I have done quite a bit of research on the web, and I understand in principle how it all work and fits together, but I have no idea on how to actually do the whole conversion.
How would you recommend that I go about the whole thing from A to Z in my home workshop ?
Many thanks Clive