Maximat V10P runs out

Hello members, thanks for allowing me to join your group.

I have a Maximat V10P, I guess its around fifty years old, plus?

It belonged to my good friend who had his own pro engineering shop and kept this one in his home garage for making items like fishing reels, he was a really good engineer! when he passed away I was able to purchase the Maximat from his wife.

As I have had it some time now I have sorted out certain issues and serviced and cleaned it, it has the one issue though, if I have a shaft in the chuck and run a machine tool along it towards the chuck the run out is 0.003" in only 1 9/16" which is way too much.

I have tested the run out from both sides of the shaft being cleaned up, cutting from the front it will cut deeper towards the chuck, if I then machine from the other side of the shaft it will undercut and by the same 0.003".

I see no way to adjust the gear head shaft, or the entire gear head box either, is there a fix for this problem?

Note, the beds do show wear but that will take the tool holder lower, which should not be an issue?

Has anyone got any ideas please?

Regards

RoyAttachment 32062

There will be some way to adjust the headstock, but it might involves scraping or shimming.

First step I'd suggest is finding a parts diagram, so you can see how the headstock attaches to the bed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by m_c

There will be some way to adjust the headstock, but it might involves scraping or shimming.

First step I'd suggest is finding a parts diagram, so you can see how the headstock attaches to the bed.

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Thanks, I do have the exploded parts page, it shows that shaft and with a bearing each end, no shims, I did read about paper shims, which makes little sense?

My steel square on the beds shows the traveling bed to be spot on, so it is the head stock shaft.

I have tried to up load the drawing of the parts but it does not work.

I have managed to up load the drawing of parts in my opening page, the main shaft has a bearing on either end, I see no sign of a shim or adjustment.

The spindle itself won't adjust.

The entire headstock assembly will need to be adjusted.
It's possibly done by the grubscrews (No. 48), but there will likely be some correct order to do the adjustment. Probably slacken the main mounting bolts, adjust the grub screws, then re-tighten. You may need to fully remove the headstock to work out how they adjust, but you'll have to be aware of any shims that might have been used.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by m_c

The spindle itself won't adjust.

The entire headstock assembly will need to be adjusted.
It's possibly done by the grubscrews (No. 48), but there will likely be some correct order to do the adjustment. Probably slacken the main mounting bolts, adjust the grub screws, then re-tighten. You may need to fully remove the headstock to work out how they adjust, but you'll have to be aware of any shims that might have been used.

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Thanks, that will be a big job.

I would think I need a test bar say 12" long to center on the Tailstock center point?

The mount bolts are hidden at the back by the drive motor, so that will need removal also.

All the best and thanks for your comments!

You need to check the bed levelling, don't try fiddling with the headstock alignment. There is probably a small amount of twist in the bed which can be removed first by making sure the stand is rigidly fixed to the floor, then careful adjustment of the clamping bolts holding the lathe bed down. A precision spirit level is very helpful to test across the bed at various points to make sure they are all coplanar.

Thinking this issue a bit more, shims would not help in my case, as its more a problem with making the headstock move right or left, in my case when viewed from above and looking towards the tailstock I need it to move to the left of the machine?

Thanks on your comment.

The lathe cupboard was not bolted down when I bought it, seems that my late friend saw no reason to do that?

It is mounted on two thick steel blocks and one each end of the machine, a single bolt in the center keeps things in place.Attachment 32063

The traveling bed is spot on with the rails that it fits on to, all parts were removed and cleaned, oiled and work really well.Attachment 32064

I have a lightly used Stabila level, ok its not calibrated but I am a trained carpenter, so am well used to reading such things.

For sure I see twist in the beds, one end to the other, if I remove the twist would that affect the headAttachment 32065Attachment 32066 stock I wonder?

Yes, a check with my level shows that the bed has a twist in it, I can shim the mounting cabinet easy enough, will it correct the headstock I wonder?

Ok, job done and it took a couple of hours, adding Formica shims until the level read the same at either end of the beds.Attachment 32067

The test on the alloy tube run again and the run out is still showing 0.003" , so no change there .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Africanimp

Thanks, I do have the exploded parts page, it shows that shaft and with a bearing each end, no shims, I did read about paper shims, which makes little sense?

My steel square on the beds shows the traveling bed to be spot on, so it is the head stock shaft.

I have tried to up load the drawing of the parts but it does not work.

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Hi
Have a look at this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMP_F9wvb1c
ideally a No3 Morse test bar would be used.
I had to settle for the Emcomat 7 when i bought my lathe, the headstock on your machine should be in perfect alignment with the bed as it locates on the V section of the lathe bed, but it might have some clearance so it can be shimmed, however i don't think this is the case. Emco machines are of good quality and were priced accordingly.
Regards
Mike

Thanks, that is a very good video!

However my situation is that the headstock is not true to the beds, its pointing out towards the tailstock.

Anyway, bit by bit and with advice from forum users I am making improvments, today I removed the twist from the tailstock end, it was low at the back by over 4mm!

is there any clearance between the interface on the v section ie between hedstock and bed, can you get a shim between the bed and the headstock V section. do those two small screws allow you to move the headstock ?

If the base of the headstock was shimmed up I think some sideways wiggle will be possible?

Right now I am still hoping for a forum member who had the same problem and found out how to fix it?

The Maximat VP11 had paper shims.

Try asking here
https://groups.io/g/emcoV10lathe

Thanks, I tried that and the link to me to Kenwood 450TS ham radio!

I will have another go just now.

It worked for me, try this link
[email protected]
I sent an email initially (took a while for a reply) when i was after info on my Emco 7.
then you will get access to the forum.
Here ar some more links
[email protected]
[email protected]

Thanks, I have messaged the [email protected] , when I have a reply I will post it here!

These pictures show how the gear head is fastened and located to the rails, there are no adjustments.Attachment 32068Attachment 32069

the first of the 2 pics shows the the 2 scerews i mentioned earlier, looks like these could inpinge on the mounting screw body allowing it to have some slight allignment

They are lock screws to the threaded rod they are going into?

But why would the threaded stud have a lock screw ??

Are they there to push the gear head into line, as in the threads are say 8mm diameter in a 9.5mm diameter hole, that would give plenty of adjustment?

Its the same on the other side.

With the nuts removed and a mirror inserted underneath I may see that the stud hole is large enough to allow adjustment?

I will be checking this idea out in the morning!

if it is as i thought, screws on both sides would allow you to scew the headstock. i seem to recall on some of the youtube vids that i have seen that the headstock is located on the V of the bed, there's a few video's that might be worth checking, will have a look in my manual as there is some V10 stuff there
Regards
Mike

The base plate is indeed located by the V section but the way I see it the gear head could have adjustment by screws numbered 48, I cannot find a reference to those screws, will it say lock screw or adjustment screw, this is what I need to find now?

Before you start trying to realign the headstock, look again at bed twist. No point in using a carpenter's or builder's level, you need a proper machinist's level which is much more sensitive. This topic has been discussed to death over on the model engineer site:

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/

I suggest you search there, there have been a number of threads on the topic. Ideally the base needs to be at least resting on a level floor if not bolted down, or have levelling screws so it can be sitting on the floor with no distortion. If the base can distort the bed it will. Then use the mounting screws, which may well have a levelling nut arrangement, to adjust the twist out of the bed all the way along. Make final adjustments doing test cuts.

By the way you are not seeing runout, it's taper. Run out is when a shaft is not running concentric.

My Myford Super 7 is mounted on a pressed steel stand which has 4 mounting feet, each one with a screw adjustment for levelling. So I get the top of the stand level using a machinist's level, then adjust the bed mounting bolts to get the top of the bed level transversely at both ends and the middle, turning the level through 180* at each position. Of course it doesn't have to be level as such, just straight, but "level-ness" is a convenient way to do this.

An idea that the gear head box can be adjusted via the grub screw numbered 48 in the parts list holds no water, this is what I see in a mirror when the nut has been removed, there is no extra space seen for adjustment that I can see? Attachment 32072

Thanks for your comments, I am working with what is available, right now the Stabila construction level is what is to hand, if a more accurate one becomes available I will re do the job. I did however find that the tailstock end was out by 4.25mm which was a surprise.

The original Maximate stand is not bolted down, it is loose standing and on a clean concrete surface, its firm and does not rock or move.

Thanks also for the mention of Taper as against my Run Out, bit by bit I am learning!

My search for a parts name page has found the parts drawing and a list of names, part number 48 is a Socket Screw, so its not for adjusting the gearhead?Attachment 32075

I mentioned the chuck back plate was refaced, well as a way of running through the possible errors I have rechecked the back plate and found that it had an error of 0.0003" which is what the error in my machining is, could that be the reason for error?Attachment 32076

I then refaced the back plate and the dial gauge gave me a very nice zero read out, as in nothing. The center shaft required a small trim as well, otherwise the chuck was going to ride on it. Attachment 32077

Attachment 32078

With the recut of the back plate I saw a zero reading on the dial gauge in all areas! Plus I had also removed the problem with the 0.003" Taper error that I thought the gear head had?


Attachment 32079

Photo in post No 29 is The screwcutting gearbox,

I recut the alloy tube I have been using, this time the work was good and I have a lathe that I can trust now.

My thanks to all of those who have offered advice in this matter. Attachment 32081