I'm wanting to draw plans myself and not sure what to use... Did you do those great detailed drawings using the free version of SketchUp or something else?
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I'm wanting to draw plans myself and not sure what to use... Did you do those great detailed drawings using the free version of SketchUp or something else?
Yep with free version of SketchUp.
Go through all Google's tutorials for each tool then the getting started vids. This will take an hour or so. Next I found 'sketchupforwoodworkers.com' to be very helpful. The guy their designs some cabinets but talks his way through explaining every tool as he needs it. This was the best and really got me wanting to have a go. These drawing are my first ever SketchUp workings. I never even followed their tutorials, just watched and took everything in. One important tip is to have a mouse with a clicking wheel. The wheel acts as a zoom, when you hold the wheel down, it orbits the screen, and when held down with the shift key it becomes the screen panning tool. Lots of time is spent on centering on and zooming in the piece you are actually working on and using these techniques really makes it fast.
Lost of cnc machine parts are available in the SketchUp marketplace, which you get to from within SketchUp. All the rails, bearings, spindle, motors, ball nuts, etc are available. Have a search
Let us know how you get on.
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rate them up!
SketchUp is seriously undervalued, I use it all the time at work so if you have any queries I would be more than happy to help - I don't feel I can give back much on this forum as yet so anything I can do to help... With the scaling issue - if you want to scale accurately - take a dimension on the model you want to scale (say this is 1423.1mm) you know that this actually needs to be 50mm, divide 50 by 1423.1 = 0.03514. Now grab all of the element you want to scale and click the scale tool, then after you click on one of the green grips that appear, enter 0.03514 - hit Enter and hey presto it is bang on 50mm. Hope that helps...
Also I can't stress enough how useful groups and components are, they allow you to change multiple elements at once and isolate elements you are working on - plus when you enter a group by double clicking, go to View>component edit>hide rest of model to fully isolate the element so you can work on a part that would otherwise be hidden - can be a life saver some times! (hope i'm not teaching you to suck eggs but someone is bound to find that tip useful.)
Iwant1 - looks like a good build log beginning here - watching with interest as not a million miles away from what I'm trying to build; mine I fear may take a long while though (due mainly to funds but also a distinct lack of time!):nightmare:
Thanks for the tip regarding scaling, will try it next time I need it.
Making groups in sketchup is vital. As soon as I made a square, it had to be grouped before I move, pull or resize it otherwise it messes up the box. Then use the outliner window to rename every grouped item so I know what I'm working with when hiding/unhiding.
Adil
Thanks for this and other tips Joe... will certainly use this one as I'm slowly getting into Sketchup, and finding push/pulling precisely nigh on impossible. Thought I had picked up how to do this from one of the "SketchUp for Woodworkers" tutorials, which are excellent thanks Adil, but I sadly seem to be cocking it up.
Think I'm gonna sweat to define a component of extrusion that is exactly 1000mm and scale it from there.... Am I right in thinking that the red grip does the whole face, effectively push/pulling?
Btw, Thanks for splitting out this thread Jonathan.
Cheers,
Yep, that's what I've been doing, but maybe I'm just being lazy or too demanding of a free product. Suppose I should better describe what I'm after, as some different form of the dim that is typed that interprets what is typed as the resulting dim (automatically taking into account the dim that was previously created possibly by another push/pull operation) rather than the dim for this push/pull operation alone. I am trying to avoid having to do calculations myself, lazy sod that I am. Hope this makes sense. I have at times first tried push/pulling down to virtually nothing (just before the whole face disappears into nothingness) which makes the calculation simpler and then push/pulling to the required length.
I like your "Benjamin Chair" very muchly by the way... guessing you CNC'ed the ply cross sections before clamping, gluing, and bolting through?
I doubt the measurement box is capable of using operators with the push/pull tool.
I would use the measurement tool to mark out the full dimension you're after, then use that as a guide to push/pull the surface to.
So for example if you got your extrusion at 167mm length and you want it 400mm long. Select the measurement tool, click at one corner of the extrusion, then move the mouse in the direction you want to go in and enter 400 in the measurement box. That gives you a reference to take the push/pull operation to. No complex maths involved, lol, just a few extra clicks.
Thanks... At last I'm making some rewarding SketchUp progress.
Have invested in a cheap calculator as Joe suggested, which seems better than using Mobile/MS-Calculator/MS-Excel when necessary. Am finding using Scale rather than Push/Pull easier to use accurately.
Was finding it more than a tad painful aligning the components/groups of 45x90 extrusions with the rounded corners, so have instead initially and quickly built the base with components that are simple 45x90 box sections.
Have structured things such that each of my components is created correctly-pre-oriented as a separate model and then imported into the main design model, so I can incorporate changes such as changing the box-sections to extrusions simply by reloading from a different model file... Eureka Adil!
It takes time to sink in... but I am getting there.... one wee step at a time....
Hi, how do you join the face of one component to the face of another in sketchup, i.e ballscrews to a flat surface etc.
The best way is to group your item so you are dealing with a single part. Select the point to join. Probably the centre of the ballscrew. If you do not have a ready position to pick then draw in extra lines that give you an intersection or end point on your component. These can be removed later. Once you start the move you may have to re-orientate your view.
The snap is when your cursor selects a point such as an intersection, midpoint, centre of a circle, end of line or a vertex. So select a snap point on the moving part and move it to the other snap point. If you want to go to the centre of a square block there is not a snap point. So draw a line from each opposite corner and where they cross will now have an intersection. Use this to snap to and delete the lines when done.
It really easier to do then explain. Keep trying.
Bruce
Something that took me ages to get out of the habit of, is dragging the object you are moving with the mouse button held down - just click once to start moving and click again when (and if) you get the object to where you want it to go. Also holding down the up, left and right cursor keys when moving restricts movement to the blue, green and red axis respectively - I often have to make multiple moves bound to a couple of axis to get an object to where I want it using this method, but at least it's not so random as when the cursor is trying to snap to various geometry as Sketchup makes a best guess at where you are aiming for.
Another little trick I use alot is when rotating a grouped object and I can't get the ptrotractor in the right plane is to draw a quick cube next to the object to be rotated, select the group to be rotated, hover the prtractor over the cube face that corresponds to the plane of rotation then hold shift down and it will stick in that plane whilst you move the protractor back to the point of rotation on the group to be rotated, then do as normal.
Oh if you haven't already found them get the Cleanup Tools addon for Sketchup - its somwhat aimed at games 3d modelling, but is useful for automatically tidying up reversed faces, co-planar faces, orphaned line vectors/edges etc http://forums.sketchucation.com/viewtopic.php?t=22920
Hope that helps and isn't teaching to suck eggs..
Chris
How do you transfer bolts holes from 1 piece to another so you know they will line up. For example you wish to bolt a section of ali plate to the rail bearings. I could then print that part out to full size if possible and use it for marking out etc.
Attachment 6565
I would group the ali plate then move it to one side. Next, double click into the bearing block group and use the circles already on the bearing block and pull them up say 20mm or whatever thickness ali plate you're using, such as this:
Attachment 6566
Now get out of that group and get into the ali plate group, select the circle tool, hover around the perimeter of those circles you just pulled up, you can just about see them on the top of the ali plate, then move the cursor into the centre of the circle. The tool will automatically find the centre, click once then move to the rim of that circle again and click again. That's your circle done, now you can use the pull/push too to push it down 20mm. This gives you a matching hole through the ali plate
It still won't look like a hole because of the pull up from the bearing block. So get into that group again and push the circle down by how much you raised it. you should get one hole looking like:
Attachment 6567
Repeat for all other holes, but make sure the holes on the sketched bearing block actually match the holes in your real bearing block.
Adil
Just a few general purpose tips that I have found work well for me:
a. I virtually never use the Pan tool because it involves pressing the middle mouse key AND simultaneously pressing the left mouse key or the shift key, and I just don't have the dexterity to do this and find it a PITA. Instead of Panning in the normal way rather Zoom-Out from a particular point on the screen and then Zoom-In from another point, which achieves the same affect as Panning but is loads easier IMO... I only use one hand...
b. When using the Move/Copy tool it can sometimes be very useful to select a particular point... normally an endpoint... within the object to be moved/copied and then type [0,0,0] which repositions that point from wherever it was to the Origin of the axes.
I am using SketchUp so much at the moment that I'm finding it a real PITA that I cannot Orbit around ordinary jpg images. ... Lol
Andy
guys any idea how i can print an overhead shot of what i have drawn? i've basicly got a flat 2D image that i want to print off, but can only get it to print from a 3d perspective
Hope this isn't teaching you to suck eggs Wilfy, but I would try:
- click Camera; Standard View; Top
- click Camera; Parallel Projection (instead of Perspective)
- click File; Export; 2D graphic
yes thats helped a lot thank you very much, theres too many options in that software i find it hard to focus on what i want.. all the tips i've read in here are very helpfull thank you.
ok after trying to print it i now can't get it to print exact size.. i.e i have a circle 203mm that i want 203mm on paper and it's coming out around 150mm, tried landscape ect, just doesnt want to play, it's taking the whole area as the object i want to print and not the acctual thing i've drawn
As SketchUp's circles are composed of many straight edges, it might just be easier to use an old fashioned compass...
It seems that SketchUp prints whatever is displayed in it's on-screen window, so by trimming it's on-screen window and using the Zoom +/ Pan tools, you can determine the rectangular object to be printed.
Then to print to exact size, under the Print options, unclick the "Fit-to-page" box and set the Scale to be identical for "In-the-printout" and "In-SketchUp".
This worked for me, but if the printed page size is bigger than the stationery size for one's printer, I think it will print on multiple pages... And at 203mm diameter you're very near to the edge of 210x297mm A4.
HTH,
Andy
hmm it's not acctually the circle i'm interested in, there are other items attached, just this is the maximum which i thought would have been ok considering what you told me to do first time round printed a fully blue page right to the edge of my paper
is there anyway to extract the drawing out to another program in the exact dimensions i.e like an object i can stick in word or something?
There is a free addon to convert the free sketchup to stl or dxf. Then load up in your cad prog.
Convert Sketchup SKP files to DXF or STL | guitar-list
Hope this helps
i've sorted it now, it's not perfect but it'll do what i want from it
ok time to teach me how to suck eggs again...
i've found drawings of say steel box section... but they are the wrong size, is it possible to resize this to how i need? and if so what the frig am i missing?
the file in question is standard steel sections by paulh - 3D Warehouse if that helps
Okay. First go into the edit menu. At the bottom of the list you will see components. select explode to seperate the various sections. Select the section that you want to scale and go into the tools menu and select scale. Using the yellow blocks you can scale in all directions.
Hope that helps.
Bruce
perfect... this has made things alot easier for me now.. thank you
Assuming you have selected the group that contains all the sections in that model and then right clicked and selected "explode", you should be able to select each individual section group and use the scale tool to resize each one. You can use a bit of math before using the scale tool to work out your desired dimension and after dragging on of the scale axis cubes, tap the ratio you need to use to get the right dimension into the "scale" entry box on the lower left of the Sketchup window. You will likely have to play around with which scaling cube to use dependant on the axis you want to scale within and to be honest for H sections its probably quicker just to draw your own as a 2D shape and then extrude it as some of the scaling will alter the thickness of the plates making up the section as well as the overall height/length (see next sentence).
If its the length you are altering then after exploding the main group and deleting all the unwanted sections, double click the group/section you have left until you can select to end/cross section face and use the push/pull tool to lengthen or shorten the section (again you can enter the length to lengthen or shorten in the entry box).
Oh another handy tip if you want more precision than you get by default is to go to Window - Model Info - Units and in there you can increase the precision. I use 0.001mm normally for component work although I doubt I'll be able to get that on any mchine I make ;-)
Ooops I was too slow ;-)
Hope that helps, but if you're really stuck let me know the dimensions you're after and I'll whip sopmething up and share in 3D warehouse.
Cheers
Chris
thanks again for the help, starting to make my way around this now. having a bit of trouble snapping 2 pieces of the box section to it's self, but i am finding the by placing measure lines i can snap to them then just delete them.. same goes for scaling.. i'm measuring out the size i want and then snapping the item to the line to get the right size.
i am struggling at the moment to find a source for sbr16 rails and bearings and also a suitable ball screw assembly that i can make to size.
oh dude your a star.. the skp files would be awesome aswell as i'm drawing up my machine right now
Hi Wilfy,
Sorry I've had to zip these, the attachment tool dosn't like skp files!
Hope these help,
Geoff.
i'm amazed it doesnt like a drawing file but does like a file that could contain any number of virus once un-zipped... awesome logic by whoever invented the forums software..
cheers though dude i'll crack on with my drawing now :D
i'm still really struggling.. i can visualise what i want things to do but i'm on the verge of saying sod drawing it in 3D and just draw loads of 2d drawing on paper at the moment. are the softwares that you use to cnc from as complicated as sketchup?
I can't comment on the CAD/CAM software as I haven't used it yet, but I also struggled with SketchUp initially.
Then Adil [Iwant1] pointed me towards the TUTORIALS on the Sketchup site and on www.sketchupforwoodworkers.com
As I've now changed my CNC design about 8 gazillion times I'm now very comfortable with Sketchup, but it does take some time initially!
Hang in there Wilfy... Tutorials Tutorials Tutorials