Hi, would anybody be able to make / mill these:
Attachment 9328Attachment 9329
I need two of the pusher and one of the mount, could it be milled out of alu / plastic? or would 3d printing be the best option?
Thanks for looking
Printable View
Hi, would anybody be able to make / mill these:
Attachment 9328Attachment 9329
I need two of the pusher and one of the mount, could it be milled out of alu / plastic? or would 3d printing be the best option?
Thanks for looking
Very suitable for 3D printing - you'll get a little bit of distortion on the holes but as long as they're just clearance holes for bolts they'll be fine.
Bit busy at the mo but might be able to do it if you don't get any other offers.
I was just looking for something to test my printer. It says it will be done in 55 minutes, might be okay might be a piece of dooh :very_drunk:
Quite interesting what units is the stl in. ie what size are they and are they designed to interlock with each other?
Hi this it what it looks like :Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
Attachment 9330
the dimensions are in mm, 48.98x20.8x21.1 and 9x8.5x18
Thanks
I have printed these off as to see what they are like but do you need those bits that stick out on the side of the pushers 3D printing is not good with overhangs so they have to be printed vertical. I think the model could be improved for 3D printing.
If you pm me with an address I will send you them foc. Clive
If you are regarding the black bits on the above picture then no, they are the micro switches?
Thanks everybody for the help
I was referring to the lugs on the side of the green bits. If they were not on i.e. square it could be printed flat and it would be a better print.
yes they are needed :( but could be tapered i guess - see this image showing them in place:Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
Attachment 9337
Just my 2p worth...
I'd consider modifying your design to put the switches horizontal and use roller lever operated by the green bits as a cam. The way you have it relies on the carriage stopping fast enough not to overstress the switch. Hitting the limit a few times could compromise the switch reliability.
I see now how you are mounting it, but just a flat plate at the bottom would still work with a washer in the slot and a bolt through.. very small parts like that, having to print it on end (because of the lugs) are difficult because plastic does not have time to cool as it is building up.
Also the slots where the switches are mounted don't need to be there (that little channel could be filled in).
What size bolt holes are they for the switches. Clive
Agree with Irving.!!. . . BUT . . . there's another plus to using Cam or ramp.? You only need 1 switch which travels not 2.!!Quote:
Originally Posted by irving2008
Hi There.
Having been lurking around this forum for a while i figured it was time for me to chime in.
Did you get this sorted?
If not i might be able to help out.
I have a fair bit of experience with 3D printing and i see no reason why this should not be printable.
Anyways... let me know if it's still relevant.
Best.
/Stig.
The holes are for M2 bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
Thanks
A fan is really a necessity, not just for small parts but also for bridges. One trick if you haven't got a fan is to print multiple copies or print something of similar height at the same time..Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
Yes I agree I printed 3 of the small parts because of the fact that the print head can then move between them and the part has a chance to cool down.
I have 2 printers one set up with ABS and the other with PLA but very small parts are always tricky. Clive
Can't you just insert a periodic pause into the program so the part has chance to cool down?Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
Yes you can and is often done so. You can get the print head to circle away from the part but then other issues come in to play ie. ooze from the head even though the filament is retracted between moves. Its all a bit of a balancing act. CliveQuote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan