3040T CNC Router Control box .. ..

Hi Guys

First to remind you I'm an absolute novice .. .. .

I've just taken delivery of a new 3040T .. .. from a company who bought for a project that didn't happen, so never used it.

clearly hasn't been used .. .. steppers are all still in wrappers etc .. . however, being a suspicious old fart, I thought I'd give the control box a look over before plugging it in .. ..

I've found an opto-coupler on the JP-382A controller board, marked ENO, which has one pin 'snipped' .. by snipped I mean it looks as though it has been deliberately cut through for some reason to break the contact.

Since I don't know what ENO stands for I'm a bit nervous .. .. anybody got any experience please ?

Thank you

S

Hi S

Probably nothing to worry about if it looks purposefully cut but if your unsure and don't want to risk turning on then post a good picture of the area your looking at and we'll take a look.

Hi Jazz

Thanks for taking the trouble .. ..

Attachment 16531

Attachment 16532

Attachment 16530

Hopefully, that shows you what you need ... .. The pin is marked EDO, if that helps

I'm not too keen on the idea of blowing it up before I've cut something !!

Thanks again

S

Perhaps its the enable opto and there is a design fault on the board and they have cut it to isolate it.

Ok well I think your good to go because I've seen this board mentioned before on CNCzone and the Eno Opto is related to the 4th axis output of the controller.
See this post. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/pcb-mi...-software.html

He mentions it being cut on this board and he's traced it back to the 4th axis output connector.

Great information, thanks very much .. ..

I'll give it a go now .. :)

Thanks Jazz

S

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Musicmanager

Great information, thanks very much .. ..

I'll give it a go now .. :)

Thanks Jazz

S

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Your Welcome and hope it works ok.! . . But if not just take Solice in knowing that often with these controllers it's was only a matter of when not if it goes bang. :joker:

Ah, right !
So given the main purpose of this machine is to make PCB's for my electronics hobby, perhaps I should factor in a new controller box to my development plan !

More good information, Thanks again .. .. .

S

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Musicmanager

Ah, right !
So given the main purpose of this machine is to make PCB's for my electronics hobby, perhaps I should factor in a new controller box to my development plan !

More good information, Thanks again .. .. .

S

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Nah I was mostly joking but unfortunatly it's partly true. These Chinese machines are great provided you don't expect too much from them and push them hard.
If pushed hard they quickly lose the plot and start giving trouble's. Troubles range from Mechanical to electrical thou without doubt the weakist area is electrical. Luckly it's easy fixed if required, it just costs more money.
Mechanicly they are Ok-ish but again pushed too hard they quickly show why they are cheap.

IMO they are great learning tools because while they still potentialy can hurt you they are far more forgiving and will just stall when crashed. (Notice I say WHEN not IF. . Lol)
If used well within there capabiltys they are great tools to set you up for more powerful machine. You can also knock some nice stuff out with them it just takes longer. However this is where people go wrong because they try to work them like proper more Grown up CNC machine and that's what kills them.! . . They are really just toys. . . .Bit like Tonky toys, Strong toys but Still toys.!!

Well, I don't intend to create a life size model of the Angel of the North :)

I'm looking at milling PCB's, using an acrylic platen with a rectangular well cut out to hold the copper board still and provide a Gnd contact for Autoleveller or something similar .. .. boards will be 100 x 160mm max. with something like 1mm cut .. .. and if it takes a while .. .. I've got more patience than my doctor !

If it develops a fault from time to time, particularly electronically, I'm probably capable of sorting it out .. .. I've found a wiring schematic for the boards in my box now, which provides a considerable amount of daylight !

Given that this post is in open forum, if there is anybody 'listening' who mills PCB's and has any advice to offer, I'd be all ears and very grateful.

Finally, if you're likening this machine to a Tonka Toy perhaps I should go buy some 'Yorkies' !!! :D

Many thanks for your help and encouragement ..

S

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Originally Posted by Musicmanager

Finally, if you're likening this machine to a Tonka Toy perhaps I should go buy some 'Yorkies' !!! :D

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No for this machine you buy 'Milky Bars'.! . . . .'Yorkies' are for real Machines . . :hysterical:

Ok... An example of a 'real' machine ?? Cost ?

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Originally Posted by Musicmanager

Ok... An example of a 'real' machine ?? Cost ?

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Err do I detect a slight pissed off tone to your reply.?? . . . This wasn't my intention. I'm also sorry if don't or didn't like what I said about these machines but it's a fact.!! . . . Don't hang the messinger.:hopelessness:

WHoa !! No ! No ! No !

I don't do pissed off .. ..

My old Dad taught me not to ask a dog an honest question and then start barking .... .. .( if you'll excuse the parody )

No, a genuine question .. .. . actually anticipating that the answer to the second question would provide the resolution to the first .. .. .. ie .. I'd like to drive a Rolls Royce but I can't afford to :)

S

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Musicmanager

My old Dad taught me not to ask a dog an honest question and then start barking .... .. .( if you'll excuse the parody )

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I like the sound of your Old Dad and No offense taken just some times hard to tell.!! . . . . Plus I have canny knack of unintentionally pissing people Off . . .Lol

Can't offer you an example of a Real machine to look at, Well Not without pissing you off even more.!! . .So Like "My Old Dad" told me don't look at what you can't afford it only "Pisses You Off".!!

The honest truth is there isn't really any affordable machines worth looking at this side of 5K unless you build your own. Those off the shelf machines at 4-5K tend to be over priced and under spec'd or designed for the money and not what I'd call even "Half Real" machine.

For a "Real" machine you need plenty of Wonga if your looking to buy rather than build.!

Yes, I liked the sound of my old dad, it was his left hand applied to my buttocks at speed I wasn't too keen on !

I came to the conclusion a while ago that an 'off the shelf' model was more wonga than I could justify .. .. so I've started to build one, based on the Sable machine but with some significant modifications. In order to achieve quality I reckoned on a 'bit at a time' approach and I've built the Y axis using a 30 x 30cm aluminium platen on linear bearings running up and down supported stainless linear rails on a heavy blockboard base. I've measured the horizontal and vertical run out and it's minimal. I need to design, get machined and then assemble the gantry next; it will be rigid fixed to the baseboard but at the moment, I'm thinking about how to maintain the parallel of the X axis.
Meanwhile, I wanted something to read, mark, learn and inwardly digest the art of Mach3, Lazycam, Autoleveller and produce some PCB's in the process; all whilst having some fun with it !

Thank you for all your advice, much appreciated .. .. .. you should relax when talking to me, you'll find pissing me off a real challenge !

Bientot

S

Hi Jazz

Sorry, a question I meant to ask you and forgot .. .

Milling PCB's .. .. lubrication ? Necessary or not ? If so, what to use ?

Thanks

S

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Originally Posted by Musicmanager

you should relax when talking to me, you'll find pissing me off a real challenge !

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Oh don't make it a Challenge please because by all accounts I'm naturally very talented at it.!! . . . Been Likened to a Vicious little Dog on a mission. :dog:

Sounds like you have made good start and have handle on things so why not stick a build thread up and then we can help you along the way with anything your struggling with. We'll also take the Piss has well mind but all done in good spirit and with genuine desire to help.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Musicmanager

Hi Jazz

Sorry, a question I meant to ask you and forgot .. .

Milling PCB's .. .. lubrication ? Necessary or not ? If so, what to use ?

Thanks

S

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Not my thing really but the little I've done I'd say just bit of Blown Air.!

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why not stick a build thread up and then we can help you along the way with anything your struggling with. We'll also take the Piss

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Yes, good idea .. .. I built the Y axis a while ago and it's in a box until the New Year or so whilst the budget fund recovers .. .. but when I get it out again I'll post it up .. ..

Back to the subject of reaction and over reaction, I have the most evil sense of humour which gets me into trouble regularly, so don't think you have a monopoly !

S

I've used a Chinese 3020 milling machine for making double sided PCBs for a couple of years now and it works remarkably well. The key is to slow down the machine a little for more accuracy.

They are more than capable of making very tight PCBs ready for surface mount components.

I haven't used lubrication on the board, simply the vacuum cleaner removing the dust every now and then.

Hi to204

Thank you for the response .. .. . the reason I asked about lubrication is that I read an article on the net recently advocating an oil to prevent copper burrs, but it looked awfully messy !

I would be interested to know what range of cutters you use for PCBs .. .. . I've no experience at all

S

Copper burrs are not that big an issue if it happens, simply use a piece of green scotch pad on the board. If you're mill bit is reasonably sharp, no significant burrs will occur.

I use the mill bits from Crownhill:

http://www.crownhill.co.uk/02097.html

They are excellent bits and will give a lovely 0.2mm route around the tracks, which means SMD tracks are easily accompished. I've found that using them at about 6000 RPM will make them last a bit longer and give a nice clean cut.

Great ! Thanks for that .. .. I'll order some for the big tryout.

I've got some cheap chinese bits ex Ebay to use for experiments, getting used to the machine and the software but I wanted to find something a bit better for when it matters.

The only issue I'll have is accurately setting spindle speed. The Control Box with the machine has a potentiometer on the panel to control speed but it is only marked with a series of white dots which get progressively larger - presumably meaning faster !
I've looked at the control boards inside and there are connections available for PWM which I could use to get Mach3 to control spindle speed but that's quite an experimental project to take on right now. I did see an article on the net a while ago, detailing how to do exactly that, but there was no outcome posted, so I don't know if it was successful or not.

I'm currently building a probe system to operate Autoleveller on my machine. I've made a nylon baseboard with a cutout the same size as the PCB blank, with a small clip on each corner which Gnd the copper cladding so that when the probe touches, it registers the exact height of the board.

Thanks for the support, very much appreciated .. ..

S

Using an electric probe and Gcode that uses the multiple heights with interpolation is essential for good PCB production.

On Ebay there are very inexpensive digital laser RPM meters available from China that will give you your spindle speed within minutes. You can then calibrate your potentiometer.

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Originally Posted by to204

On Ebay there are very inexpensive digital laser RPM meters available from China that will give you your spindle speed within minutes. You can then calibrate your potentiometer.

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That's a good idea, I'm glad I thought of that ! :biggrin:

S

Can you please help me to understand its internal hardware working?
What are the specifications of the all of the components of the control board in this machine?
Also what type of the control is required here in this machine?

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