CNC Router V1.0 (For Cutting Multiple Materials)

[biketrialsdave]

Can't imagine that plate is flat enough to be useful and could cause you more trouble than it's worth.?

Personaly I would just buy Machine tooling plate that is ground perfectly flat. Put your Profile etc directly on this and then shim out any error using the nice flat surface for reference. No need to skim flat. Then you can drill tap matrix of holes. Forget tapping with router type spindle no where near enough torque or control to do this unless thread milling. It's nothing of job to do with spiral flute tap in a Cordless drill.

Just to clarify...use the machine tooling plate as the bed? The problem I see is they are very expensive? Any links to something appropriate?

Cheers,

Dave

[biketrialsdave]

Just the information I was after, all makes perfect sense. I can't thank you enough. Will have to send you something your way when I'm done!

[JAZZCNC]

Just the information I was after, all makes perfect sense. I can't thank you enough. Will have to send you something your way when I'm done!

Don't be daft it's what we do and why we are here to help each other.!. . . . just post pics and vids. .

[biketrialsdave]

Still tons of work to go but a few pics of the latest design... I went back and reduced the overall size fairly substantially as I realised I didn't need it. I'm a lot happier with the general direction now.

[routercnc]

Coming together but . . .

the spindle hangs a long way out in front of the gantry - what's happening with the Z axis? Can you show a side view of the Z axis ? Is it profile rails on Z - looks like they are very close together and possible you are not pocketing the ballscrew etc. therefore giving large overhang.

Stiffness drops off significantly as you move out from the gantry so worth getting it more compact if possible.

[JAZZCNC]

Dave drop that Linear stage for the Z axis it's massive weak spot on machine.

I'd also look to beef those plates holding motors etc but other than those 2 things it's coming together nice. .

Edit: didn't see Rout's post same thing really.

One other thing regards the Drop bracket on the Y axis at rear it needs more support from a brace.

[biketrialsdave]

I know what you're saying, that is a concern of mine. At the moment I'm using a thk kr33 assembly as I bought it a while back. However, I am planning to use the excess thk linear rail that I'll have left in the future. Perhaps I should design that in now...

[JAZZCNC]

Perhaps I should design that in now...

No perhaps about it Dave needs to be done. The Z axis is KEY area don't matter how well built rest of machine if Z is shite or weak.!!

[biketrialsdave]

No perhaps about it Dave needs to be done. The Z axis is KEY area don't matter how well built rest of machine if Z is shite or weak.!!

OK, I'll get onto that tomorrow! I assume 2 linear rails with the ballscrew in-between them sitting in a slot to reduce the overall depth? I'm using THK HSR15 carriages for the other axis, I assume these will be OK for the Z too?


The drop brackets on the rear are 5mm steel at the moment. I can increase this and also add some kind of right angle bracket perhaps.

[Neale]

OK, I'll get onto that tomorrow! I assume 2 linear rails with the ballscrew in-between them sitting in a slot to reduce the overall depth? I'm using THK HSR15 carriages for the other axis, I assume these will be OK for the Z too?

Even if you don't really need them for strength, this is one place where "20" rails and carriages can be useful to give just a bit more clearance between Z plates for the ballscrew and nut. If you have to buy them and don't have something in stock already, this might be something to consider.