Stell frame cnc 1500X1000. Adjustable table your opinion please

[Neale]

Perfectly correct, Vargai - I forgot to multiply the "1 in a 1000" ratio by the width of the rail. I've slapped my own wrist...

[vargai]

Perfectly correct, Vargai - I forgot to multiply the "1 in a 1000" ratio by the width of the rail. I've slapped my own wrist...

I would not have intact body portion so just meant to understand you

[ba99297]

Hello everybody
I am happy that i restart my project
Many things had happened during the last year, that make me stop any kind of progress
That until August when i decide to restart, but first i had to make some changes in my working place
The most important was that the floor was worn and all these years was a source of dust.
That was the situation before


I decided that i must lay tiles and keep one place with some kind of heavy duty concrete, in order to be able to weld, as tiles even if they are very hard though they are not suitable for such jobs
First i had to clear the floor from old paint
Two days of water blasting with my karcher finally make possible this


Then i begun to lay tiles

It was the first time for me that i lay tiles in such a big scale ( 80 m2), and i lay them diagonally
Finally the result is this



I had the chance to paint. I decide to paint with oil paint the first one meter and the rest with water color

Then i had to make the "baby room". Yes thats right!!!! the place that i will put the cnc. I had some old aluminum doors and i dont want to sell them for scrap. I also had some drop ceiling parts, so i use them all and i made this

Yesterday i move the frame and all the components in order to restart building


As you can see the machine is rolling on 4 wheels. That makes the removal of the machine very easy
Finally the "baby" get in the new house

So Today i start working again on the machine.
Nice feeling
First i had to cut some ruber parts for the adjustable feets


So far that is my progress
I will continue tomorrow
Thanks for your time
Vagelis

[JAZZCNC]

Looking Good Vagelis. Nice and cool. . .

[ba99297]

Dean thanks for your good words
As more than a year has passed since my last attemp of rails intalation, today i go on
I had some questions that i wrote 1,5 year ago (30-11-2014 #171).
I repeat them in order to understand what level of accuracy i have to achieve

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#1 ( very important to know what I am trying for )
When you measure the flatness of a beam ( or epoxy surface) against a straight edge, what is the acceptable tolerance-gap ( so we assume the surface is straight) . I use light to understand whether my top beams attach the straight edge. The touching points can be easily seen. But at other points althought i can see that there is no touch ( light passes through) , the 0,02mm Gap Filler cant pass through the gap. So what is the critical gap ? the light passing test ( that is less than 0,02mm ) or the 0,02mm gap filler test?

#2
When someone use the solution with the adjustable top beams ( without epoxy) or the shimming method how does he succeed to have the top rails in the same plane. How does he know when the two rails ( left and right ) are in the same plane?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hiwin maual (among others) has this table that says ( if i read right the table) that the height H of a rail has a range +- 0.1 mm for normal accuracy rails



Thanks for your time
Vagelis

[ba99297]

A little progress today
This is a try to level my cnc before i go on with hiwin rails.
I use an aluminum spirit level and a digital Protractor Inclinometer that has a permanent tilt of 2o against earth level ( upper value on lcd screen) after it dropped from my hands.
What is important is the relative angle
Here is the result.
If somebody has something to say about the previous post #186 questions, i will be glad to hear

Thanks for you time
https://youtu.be/2yhukWVv7NQ

[Boyan Silyavski]

Dean thanks for your good words
As more than a year has passed since my last attemp of rails intalation, today i go on
I had some questions that i wrote 1,5 year ago (30-11-2014 #171).
I repeat them in order to understand what level of accuracy i have to achieve

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#1 ( very important to know what I am trying for )
When you measure the flatness of a beam ( or epoxy surface) against a straight edge, what is the acceptable tolerance-gap ( so we assume the surface is straight) . I use light to understand whether my top beams attach the straight edge. The touching points can be easily seen. But at other points althought i can see that there is no touch ( light passes through) , the 0,02mm Gap Filler cant pass through the gap. So what is the critical gap ? the light passing test ( that is less than 0,02mm ) or the 0,02mm gap filler test?

#2
When someone use the solution with the adjustable top beams ( without epoxy) or the shimming method how does he succeed to have the top rails in the same plane. How does he know when the two rails ( left and right ) are in the same plane?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hiwin maual (among others) has this table that says ( if i read right the table) that the height H of a rail has a range +- 0.1 mm for normal accuracy rails



Thanks for your time
Vagelis

#1
For me its very simple. Depends on table size. For under 1m everything more than 0.05 anywhere is unacceptable. For bigger tables 0.1 deviation on height is the limit. So hiwin is right.
Now i want to tell you that it took me a week to mount my 2 long rails . I mounted them and dismounted them 5 times, not counting the 3 pours of epoxy. So at thend depends what you will use the machine for.

My standard is very simple. if i can notice a gap with naked eye, its unacceptable. Be it 1m or 10 meters table.


#2
yeah, thats why i dont like this method. Ask Dean. But it should be possible if you of course have straight edge that can lay on top of both of them at the same time. i doubt though you could achieve same precision as with epoxy

[ba99297]

Boyan thanks for your answer.

#1
For me its very simple. Depends on table size. For under 1m everything more than 0.05 anywhere is unacceptable. For bigger tables 0.1 deviation on height is the limit. So hiwin is right.

I guess when you measure in mm, so when you say 0.05 you mean 0,05mm and when you say 0.1 you mean 0.1mm right?

So even if i can see light pass between the rail and the straight edge but the 0,02mm filler strip can’t pass through the gap you think is OK for a 1800mm long table?
Really after epoxy cure, when you attach the straight edge on the epoxy surface is there any gap between the epoxy and the straight edge? The epoxy surface is perfectly flat against the straight edge? If the answer is YES i have an idea here

http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/9511-...t-work?p=76521

Vagelis

[JAZZCNC]

#2 i doubt though you could achieve same precision as with epoxy

So when leveling across the planes, not the Rail length I mean planer level, what precision do you get with Epoxy then Boyan.? . . . . . If you can quote me figures then how are you measuring it.?