Ok, I've had a look inside and nothing is visibly burnt or smalls burnt (although it was over week ago that the fault occured).

I checked continuity between UVW terminals and there is no connection between them. I didn't have time to do any more investigation but have today made contact with a VFD sales and repair company. They are offering a free quote if I can arrange postage to them, which is fair enough.

Don't know how much the repair will be yet. If it is less then £100 then I'll just repair it. If it around £100 (similar to a new Huanyang VFD), I'll have to think about which way to go. If it is £150 or over then it will most likely be the Chinese VFD and fingers crossed.

I know the risks with these units and the most popular 2.2kW unit seems to be the HY02D223B. I also noticed that they make a SL-222EE model which shows Vector Control Drive as a feature, and has also been shown with an optional removable front keypad panel and connecting cable. This panel can also have a pot added to it to manually control the speed. This would make it the same as my Moeller drive for which I was about to mount the keypad in the control box door. Anyone bought and used one of these models with the Chinese spindles?
I have found a long post from kajuk:

http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/router...w-motor-3.html

but he was having alot of set up problems despite Eddy's extensive suggestions for help.

As far as I can tell the spindle is OK. Checking resistance between pairs of pins shows about 2.2ohms. Does this seem about right? I know this is no guarantee of not having a short under actual load, but I'm willing to keep it for now and just fix or replace the VFD.

Finally I need to make sure that the cable does not spark again. I like Ian's idea of going direct so am looking into a gland/strain relief unit like this:

Spiral Cable Gland Strain Relief 4-8mm M16 Thread | eBay

I would remove the GX16 socket from the spindle end cap and wire the VFD cable direct to the motor, with an earth tapping made on the inside of the end cap. Might need to open out the GX16 socket hole, or better still tap it to suit the gland thread, but that should be no problem. What other neat cable solutions have others tried? Or are you still using the dodgy GX16-3!?