New build with recycled parts on a ridiculous budget 120cm*60cm work area

Smart stuff!
Any worries about soundlevels when running vacuumpumps?
Have never used one so I don't know but I'm worried :D

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Originally Posted by Nr1madman

Smart stuff!
Any worries about soundlevels when running vacuumpumps?
Have never used one so I don't know but I'm worried :D

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Vacuum cleaners are a lot louder than vac pumps for reference.

No issues for me it's in an industrial unit so can make as much noise as I want 24 hours a day ;)

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Originally Posted by Desertboy

What microstepping do others use for their AM882's? I was thinking X16.

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I use x8, with EM806. That's with NEMA23 3Nm, 5mm lead ballscrews, 1-1 pulleys. Seems like a good compromise between smooth running, resolution, and maintaining torque. Gives me about 5000mm/min rapid, which is slower than some people but the max I can manage with my ballscrew length.

8X it is ;) do the motors get quieter the more microsteps you have? When I first ran them one of the motors was virtually silent.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4_u5ov-9cc

Ordered a 720p webcam to set a timelapse up so I can record my mistakes ;)
Did you use the auto tune function on the EM806? Wondering if I did it right, flicked the SW4 switch on/off/on you hear some minor buzzing sound for a second and it's done. Does this sound correct?

Certainly a non-microstepped motor seems to run really roughly. I haven't studied it that closely, though - that was on a different machine which had been set up without microsteps for initial testing. The other thing to take into account is the pulse rate you can get out of the driving PC, though. Too many microsteps and you can't drive the pulses fast enough for decent speed. However, most people seem to be using external motion controllers these days which takes that whole issue away.

I did play with the autotune, although I was never quite clear about whether it should be done on load, and if so how you handled the case of a master/slave axis setup. Not a lot seemed to happen, though, and I have no idea whether or not it made a difference! I just use the machine, and it seems to work fine as it is. Might not be optimum, but I'm not sure what difference tuning makes. No apparent resonance over the speed range I use (typically cutting at around 3000-3500mm/min in wood or polythene) and 5000mm/min rapid. I guess that the ideal tune might allow slightly higher accelerations, but like a lot of people I just tweaked and tested until I had reasonable and reliable results.

Good luck - you seem to be getting close now!

I forgot to mention I fitted the BK12 fitting the wrong way round on the X axis and it was squeaking when I tried to move it, lubricated the hiwin's and ballbscrews a couple of times before I realised lol.

Swapped the BK12 fitting opposite way round and all good ;)

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Originally Posted by Desertboy

I forgot to mention I fitted the BK12 fitting the wrong way round on the X axis and it was squeaking when I tried to move it, lubricated the hiwin's and ballbscrews a couple of times before I realised lol.

Swapped the BK12 fitting opposite way round and all good ;)

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Damnit! Is there a wrong way :D I have one squeaking ! Have to check orientation.. good find hehe

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Attachment 23312

This is the correct way at least mine doesn't squeak when fitted like this and does when the BK12 fitting is the opposite way round.

I think the Chinese might be off with 500mm though lol.

Aah.. thats the way I have it and still squeaking ;)
Have it reversed on z but that works fine haha

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Originally Posted by Nr1madman

Aah.. thats the way I have it and still squeaking ;)
Have it reversed on z but that works fine haha

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I would try taking it off and reseating it as it shouldn't be squeaking, sounds like it's not sat in the bearing straight and maybe just reseating it will be enough.

Got the spindle back on was nice to see it move with the spindle on and test the water cooling hoses for kinks, etc during movement.

I am going to put the limit switches sideways on like someone suggested maybe 3cm away from the original switches, ordered a couple of roller type ones and have 1 spare. The original ones going to leave in place as hard limits so when I do get a latched relay I can wire it to that with all my other emergency stuff.

Water cooling works ;)

Still waiting on roller limit switches, box is 90% finished now.

Still no roller switches but found a spare one so i can fit 2 for the Y axis over the weekend, getting it fitted in place finally.

Attachment 23370

Awesome! :D

What type of rollerswitches did you get?

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Originally Posted by Nr1madman

Awesome! :D

What type of rollerswitches did you get?

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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1PC-Micro...72.m2749.l2649

I got 2 of these and have 2 honeywells same type already.

Now I've found the missing one I can sort the Y out which is the most important anyway as I'm going to use the switches to square the gantry when homing. This is going to take me a little while to work out in linuxcnc lol.

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Originally Posted by Desertboy

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1PC-Micro...72.m2749.l2649

I got 2 of these and have 2 honeywells same type already.

Now I've found the missing one I can sort the Y out which is the most important anyway as I'm going to use the switches to square the gantry when homing. This is going to take me a little while to work out in linuxcnc lol.

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Was thinking about that type aswell.. have some somewhere :D but Im probably gonna buy this kind https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-ME-810...IAAOSwIgNXjh-v



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Originally Posted by Nr1madman

Was thinking about that type aswell.. have some somewhere :D but Im probably gonna buy this kind https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-ME-810...IAAOSwIgNXjh-v



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I personally would go with this type https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/22256467184...4960578&crdt=0

No moving parts to go wrong.

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Originally Posted by Clive S

I personally would go with this type https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/22256467184...4960578&crdt=0

No moving parts to go wrong.

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To tell the truth Ive bought that kind for my home switches, was thinking about going mechanical for my limits because of all the forum threads I have seen about connecting proximity switches and different types (npn, pnp) and the problems people have in connecting them. I guess its not complicated and if I get confused I could always get my multimeter and figure out whats going on.
But I just dont want anything more complications right now :)

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Yes you are correct they don't need to be accurate for limits and easier to connect in one loop.

Am I right in thinking it's pointless to use limit switches if you're only going to wire them to the Estop as the home switches can do the same job? They become useful when fitted to an external override like a latched relay?

Is this correct?

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Originally Posted by Desertboy

Am I right in thinking it's pointless to use limit switches if you're only going to wire them to the Estop as the home switches can do the same job? They become useful when fitted to an external override like a latched relay?

Is this correct?

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You are thinking of wireing them to the estop input on the bob only?

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Originally Posted by Nr1madman

You are thinking of wireing them to the estop input on the bob only?

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at moment yes I have crashed into the side of my machine already lol it's doesn't do a lot just fires a stall protect didn't meant to was see how close I needed to get to the microswitches. Something like Thor you got big issues but with 2nm and AM882's it seems a non issue.

since all my switches with wired NC if the machine fails to stop machines probably crashed and stuck in a loop which is probably extremely rare in linuxcnc.

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Originally Posted by Desertboy

at moment yes I have crashed into the side of my machine already lol it's doesn't do a lot just fires a stall protect didn't meant to was see how close I needed to get to the microswitches. Something like Thor you got big issues but with 2nm and AM882's it seems a non issue.

since all my switches with wired NC if the machine fails to stop machines probably crashed and stuck in a loop which is probably extremely rare in linuxcnc.

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I know lots of people trust bob inputs and software and do similar installations like you are planning. It was this forum that made me question this and think more industrial ;)
But almost all of the time your way will work haha

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nr1madman

I know lots of people trust bob inputs and software and do similar installations like you are planning. It was this forum that made me question this and think more industrial ;)
But almost all of the time your way will work haha

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When I got steel things will be different

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Originally Posted by Desertboy

When I got steel things will be different

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Well.. if you use latching relay option that might fuse aswell as software.. you are never totally safe :D

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Originally Posted by Nr1madman

Well.. if you use latching relay option that might fuse aswell as software.. you are never totally safe :D

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I'm not even vaguely safe at any one time lol.

Quick question the 12/24v spindle input on my BOB which is + and which is -? I assume left would be - and right +

Attachment 23377

Got a 2nd hand 3d connexion space pilot from Ebay for a good price and condition is excellent it doesn't look or feel like the one I have has ever even been used lol.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IBM-3DConn...72.m2749.l2649

Was slightly fiddly to setup as it's not supported by the latest software from 3d connexion but download the legacy software from there site and works 100%, just remember to restart fusion 360 if you install it whilst fusion is open. Lol spent 20 mins before I realised a simple restart of fusion was all that was needed nothing to configure to get it working.

It's weird! But I like it I can see I'm going to get on with it very well but it's going to take a little while to get used to it I can already navigate fusion 360 300% better in 2 mins of using it without trying the trainer yet lol.

Need to work out how to configure the 1-6 buttons as well for most optimal workflow but undo and redo have to be on that list ;)

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Quick question the 12/24v spindle input on my BOB which is + and which is -? I assume left would be - and right +

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have you looked under the board on one of those that I have it is printed on the pcb. On mine +ve is third from the cap and -ve is forth. I am talking about the power supply input.

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Originally Posted by Clive S

have you looked under the board on one of those that I have it is printed on the pcb. On mine +ve is third from the cap and -ve is forth. I am talking about the power supply input.

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No I didn't before I bolted the BOB to the plate and the plate into the box lol, but I have an identical BOB luckily spare so will check that one ;)

I think its like this
https://image.ibb.co/kag1jb/mach3_br...otor_drive.jpg

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That's my board so we'll see tomorrow ;)

Really liking the 3d mouse gives you so much more control over how you view your model.
Attachment 23380

Going down to south park ;)

Attachment 23396

Attachment 23397

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Originally Posted by Desertboy

Going down to south park ;)

Attachment 23396

Attachment 23397

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Make it, show it, love it!

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The southpark figures are 3d illustrations?? The wood grain looks wrong to be real cuts?

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Originally Posted by Davek0974

The southpark figures are 3d illustrations?? The wood grain looks wrong to be real cuts?

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Renders from within Fusion 360. Shows how good they are, the need to check / question :-)

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Originally Posted by Davek0974

The southpark figures are 3d illustrations?? The wood grain looks wrong to be real cuts?

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Chaz is right there Fusion 360 models I then "coloured" using different woods in physical material.

I was playing with different ways of making cad models from bitmaps

The South Park figures were a simple spline trace over a canvas, Obey from They Live (Cracking film) I used Inkscape trace bitmap function to vectorize the image then used the SVG to extrude from.

Attachment 23405

This is one I did from a photo of a friend this took a fair bit of processing in both gimp and Inkscape before I could get a usable extrusion will need cleaning up before I make it.

Also going to check out image2gcode built into linuxcnc to see what engraving fun I can have ;)

Was playing in fusion only took 40 mins but not sure how I'd drive the long axis, I think needs to be R&P but have no idea how to set up a dual pinion anti backlash setup. The other choice 2* 2.7m 2510 ballscrew's with rotating ballnut's as at the length it's going to be a skipping rope if I try and rotate the screw.

Does anyone know how I invert the axis in linuxcnc? Using the beta dual ballscrew on the Y so need to edit the hal or .ini to do it as the wizard doesn't support dual motors.
Attachment 23414

Alright Fusion buffs when I copy an object how do I break the association so my edits to the new object do not effect the original?

Man, do i need to brush up on Fusion, 40 minutes? would have taken me a week :) Thats if i could figure out where to start

Are you sure you need dual pinions if using r&p?
I think the more common option is to spring load the pinion against the rack.. have you checked cncrouterparts design with a pivotplate or the mechmate as it uses similar design.

And I agree about your fusion skills! Impressive!
I find solidworks much more intuitive but I have a really old version so I guess fusion tutorials are on that to-do list ;)

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Does anyone know how I invert the axis in linuxcnc? Using the beta dual ballscrew on the Y so need to edit the hal or .ini to do it as the wizard doesn't support dual motors.

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Dave

For twin screws you need Linuxcnc V 2.8 master if you want independent homing. I you want to reverse on of the motors then you can just swap the phases around on the motor.

What version are you using?