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Crikey,Quote:
Originally Posted by noyloj
I'd have canned you for for being an enormous knobsock, just shows you how laid back the management 'round here is, but keep in mind you've already pissed off many of the natives best placed to help clueless souls such as yourself.
I've bookmarked this one as I like a larf and have popcorn in stock ;-)
- Nick
Sense of humour failure!
But sure you must be right! How could I DARE to question! KMA! Hahahha!
All hail the great Know Everythings who must be obeyed in fear of being 'canned'... Oh where's my mummy!
Incidentally this is a build log. I don't remember asking ANY questions here. I asked questions in the other parts of this forum! Logic non?
It ain't me telling people how to button their shirts!
I honestly never knew machinists could be such sensitive little flowers! All over the size of a couple of motors! Bless!
Yes I did read his site and his plans are direct drive all axis and Nema34 for the Z. There is more than one way to skin a cat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
And just to prove I'm not the only mad bastard to use Nema 34s all axis. Amonst many others, there's this guy who sells kits in the states. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wixyn2RNNpU
And I'm only f'in using them 'cos I got them cheap! Nutters!
Who's your dealer?
Uppers of some sort, yes?
:D
Life's a natural high when you're surrounded by good company!
Well then it seems your in good companyQuote:
Originally Posted by noyloj
I got my first missus cheap but don't mean to say she was any goodQuote:
Originally Posted by noyloj
What a limp video, tells you sod all, might as well advertise on the back of a bus except for the fact he's using the wrong couplings so what else is pissed up. the yanks are good for this , they invented the Bridgeport after all.
Look at the CNC fusion kits, Z axis stuck that far out the side it's only good for drying clothes on.
The Hi torque lathe kit looks like it was designed in kindergarden.
Clive s. I don't think I ever suggested otherwise!
Yes but you still used her didn't cha! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by John S
Ye but when his Old Girt was still with us she listened to his every word because he's such tactfull knowledgable Charmer. (Well that's what the Old bastard told me anyway)Quote:
Originally Posted by noyloj
Now is new upgraded model it's other way around because she can teach him thing or two. . Lol
Tact and charm are my strong points too! See how much we have in common!Quote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
No John is Wise old Owl and Gent your just arrogent Cockend.!!Quote:
Originally Posted by noyloj
Still, at least I don't resort to insults when I don't know the first thing about someone's background. Still in ya cozy little internet bubble it you'll have that nice warm feeling. Anyway much as I'd like to absorb all the vitriol (just because I AM USING NEMA 34 motors and refuse to kiss ass!) I'd rather fill this space with a log of my build.Quote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
Can you imagine Star Trek?
Captains Log, Stardate 7 1 2017.
We are just about to enter the Alpha Quadrant....
(Pipes up) Oooh, No Captain! You don't enter the Alpha Quadrant like that we've all already been to the Alpha Quadrant, it's not as good as you think it is! You are an arrogant shit if you think you can enter the Alpha Quadrant like that! In fact we've a good mind to take away your Log! Now do as you're told and enter the Alpha Quadrant like you've been told!
Hahhahah!
Over and out!
Incidentally you should look up the definition of LOG in this context.
Merriam-Webster:- a record of performance, events, or day-to-day activities
Cambridge:- a full written record of a journey, a period of time, or an event
I don't think there is any mention of the writers character or personality by people unconnected to the aforementioned events!
We like to try help people not make mistakes around here whether we see that in LOG or General Q post but when they come back with attitude like yours which was rude and arrogant we make assumptions based on that attitude. Hence you acted like Cockend with your replys to people who are just trying to help offer sound advise So your COCKEND to ME.!!Quote:
Originally Posted by noyloj
Just because you have Drives/motors and they were cheap doesn't mean you should use them. You could sell them and buy better suited.!
We know thru experience that there's lot of work time goes into building/converting these machines and not something one wants to waste time doing twice so the advise given is based on things like this not just because we are Anal or got OCD.
Now Captain Clingon crack on with your LOG and have happy Journey.
If I sold them I wouldn't be able to play with them, or re-use them for my router project! It's very simple. Granted they are not ideal but many people who convert these machines seem to do so in phases. Using what is cheap and at hand provisionally to go onto adapt the build into something else. Hoss's plans breaks down into three phases. Mine begins as an adaptation of the second phase. It's not an attack on anyone here to say that this is how I intend to build my machine. I'm very happy if you've all found good solutions. If I had the cash, or wanted to, I would buy a kit and go down that road but I simply came here to build a machine THIS way. The pitfalls, and I'm sure there will be many, are part of the learning curve for me. The log here should provide evidence of these pitfalls for other people. I honestly don't see what the problem is. I was not foul mouthed or abusive toward anyone here, believe it or not I respect you guys, who many would consider to be a bunch of geeks, because I am a sad geek too! I hope you can understand that my abrasive manner is not any reflection on anyone here, and I certainly didn't mean to be understood as rude! It's just who I am since my accident. Happy CNCing!
Right then. Me ballscrews arrived the other day. I need to machine an M10 thread near the end of the y axis screw... I don't have access to a lathe for screw cutting so I've ordered a good quality M!0 - 1mm die from ebay. I was going to use standard 1.5mm threading but was kindly reminded (by Komatias) that I may not get the die past the 8mm machined end. Thanks a lot! there is some degree of disagreement about the feasibility of cutting the thread by hand but although it doesn't seem to be the recommended approach a few people suggest that it can be done so I'll let you know how it goes. The problem seems to be keeping the die adequately square (perpendicular) to the ballscrew... I had initially hoped to put the screw into the a chuck held in my rotary table and make a die holder to put in the tailstock that could be allowed to travel as the thread progressed but since the 2MT tool holder in the HV6 is too small for the 16mm diameter screw this ain't gonna happen... however in a re-inventing the wheel moment of inspiration I thought it may just be a plan to try and hold the screw with the tailstock clamp which is nominally 18mm diameter(except for a bush at the back) or possibly to make a 16mm clamp that will fit into tailstock base... there may yet be hope! The mill proper has apparently been despatched today and will arrive in sunny France toward the end of next week I'm told... My UC300 motion controller, BOB and software were due to arrive today but it's snowing so who knows?
I should mention that aside from the missing thread... the screws seem pretty good!
Stick the screw in the lathe chuck (with something protecting the screw) and use a drill chuck in your tailstock with the chuck jaws wound right in to keep it square, wind the chick.in as you spin the die (not the chuck)....that's how I do it....😁
Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk
Hi NeilQuote:
Originally Posted by njhussey
This is something like what I wanted to do but the 2MT taper on the rotary table is too small to take the 16mm ballscrew...
What do you mean with about using the drill chuck to keep it square btw?
Ah... I gotcha!
Thanks Jo
Just read your post again Jo and see your dilemma, clamp 2 bits of 3"x2" wood together and drill a 14mm hole or largest drill bit you have nearest that size if not got that size, equi spaced through the join. Do this twice and use them as clamps for your ballscrew. Then screw them down to a flat work bench/door (but maybe not kitchen worktop.....unless you're single 😉) with a suitable spacer underneath them so you can turn your die without hitting the surface. Screw down a batton parallel to your ballscrew 25mm offset from it and then make yourself a 345 triangle that you can use to slide against the batton thus keeping the die square to the ballscrew....
Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk
I like your thinking! A jig... HmmmmQuote:
Originally Posted by njhussey
Perhaps in steel?....
Yay!
Good news, having nothing to do today, since snow has further delayed the arrival of my UC300ETH motion controller, I pulled apart my old 'broken' Metrix 803B oscilloscope to see if I could identify the problem in preparation for my mill electrics/electronics and lo it was just a sticky switch! It doesn't get easier than that folks!
Gave her a good clean out inside at the same time I had her in bits... about an 1/8" of dust on everything horizontal!
Made a couple of mods cutting cables and putting in joiners to make her easier to pull apart, without a soldering iron, next time...
Ok
UC300ETH motion controller arrived today... along with the bb2 (and some cables that don't quite work to connect the two. Damn it!)
Couldn't get it to power up contacted cncdrive.com and they diagnosed that the jumper behind the 5V power socket was in the wrong position... I had noticed it didn't correspond with the drawing in the manual but was too scared to swap it over in case the magic pixies fried my new board...
So the board powered up and eventually got recognized by my laptop.... that runs windows ten but doesn't have the dotNET 2.0 framework on it and wont allow me to install it... so on to Microsoft who have suggested downloading a later version of windows 10 and updating... PAINFULLY slow download that already dropped out once at 38%.
I'll leave her cooking tonight and see how the cookie crumbles on the morrow...
Gonna need to work out the electrics between the BOB and the drivers... PNP, NPN... who knows?
Someone here probably... or it's out with the Oscilloscope Captain Clingon!
Windows 10 update is working now with the dotnet 2.0 framework.
UCCNC auto updated the firmware on the UC300 so they are playing nicely for the moment! I am using a direct connection from the laptop not through a router or switch... so I used a network crossover Ethernet cable not a straight one...
Wm16 Mill arrived today and I managed to split it into two and lug the pieces upstairs with the help of my neighbor.... Gonna have to find a good table or weld up a stand for her... The stand is probably the way forward... I've got some angle kicking about here somewhere... Could probably make it simply a skeleton and add sides and cabinet and/or drawer at a later date...
Currently transferring (via Ethernet LAN) all media and music from my laptop to my desktop so that I can strip it and set it up to run the motion controller and UCCNC and Mach3 and probably some other CAD software and bits and bobs related to the mill conversion... Must remember to rejig the LAN IP address etc. settings when I swap back the Ethernet cable for the motion controller...
Mill in bits all over the place now... quick way to familiarise oneself with a bit of kit and a chance to give it a good clean and lube... Plenty of paint and sticky resiny oily varnish stuff everywhere including on the ways... dirt and grit and grinding residue too.
Quite surprised about the machining done to get the column perpendicular to the base... it looks like someone took a grinder to the machined mating surfaces! Will try and tidy this up after she's cleaned reassembled and I've put the dial to her...
Otherwise pretty much as I imagined except that the saddle looks to have been machined with the intention of fitting ballscrews and mounts... the hole for the x-axis clamp block is much bigger than I've seen and is just about perfectly sized for the cheapo Chinese mount I bought, also a shallow 1mm slot already milled in it that might allow enough clearance for x axis screw...