I know its also so close to me i could reach out and touch it, would be prefect project for me.
Printable View
I always think of these as 8*4 machines lol as that's what I mostly would use it for but the ability to do 10*5 would be very useful but only occasionally. If i do build my own I will build it to have a workspace of 3m*1.6m because you never know when you need those extra inches ;) Space is not an issue to me at the moment within reason I could fit 3 of these machines in ;)
This machine would be spot on for what I want, I would then convert what I'm building now into an aluminium machine for cutting molds for vac forming and use the big one for wood only.
the frame could i make it out of 50x50x3 mm or do i need to use bigger and heaver steel?
i found this shop in holland i think the price is ok because i need supported rails of 3 meter long
https://www.hardware-cnc.nl/en/shop/...ted-round-rail
with frame i mean the base of the machine,
i don't have cad program just sketchup i am a woodworker so for drawing kitchens etc thats good enough but i can draw very accurate in sketchup
I know people love Fusion but cloud computing is about as secure as my Vauxhall Nova was (Was stolen 5 times lol)
if you're data has no financial potential then use fusion if you data is valuable avoid clouds.
My bank has been hacked twice in 6 years and virgin media last week, I have no faith in secure cloud computing at all.
I know it's time to upgrade my cad so going to buy this package I think
http://www.cadandgraphics.com/tupro2...Fee77QodVWkGUw
Seems very good value for a semi pro workshop solution.
I've heard Fusion is good but the guys I work with everyday keep telling me to buy solidworks but at £20k not been in the mood lol, especially as they upgrade every year so I would have to go the £5k a year upgrade path lol. I believe Fusion is not free if used commercially but never checked the licensing out because if I did change cad it would be to solidworks as I have never come across 1 manufacturer that does not use solidworks now and I've dealt with injection moulders, vac formers & plastic/aluminium extruders on a daily basis for 6 years.
If I couldn't save locally then it would just be a joke of a program but being able to save locally does not make it secure just at least usable.
You can import files from SW to fusion360 if that helps. Being secure for the average hobbyist is not the end of the world when it is free.
Its hard to find a free cad cam package as good as fusion.
2 years ago I had to build a punching machine (Hydraulic) for plastic I built it from 3mm box section AND it's not strong enough I have to run it about 1/4 the speed I built it to run to get decent results and I'm punching Polyprop. Any faster and the holes are not accurate! I heat the punchs to 230c as well to reduce stresses using nozzle heaters from injection moulding machines.
I would think a minimum of 7mm would be needed if I wanted to make a steel router.
I was shocked the stresses of punching plastic the aluminium casting we made wasn't strong enough to resist the forces and we had to recast in steel and on the first attempt the steel shrunk too much so we had to recast and grind to fit.
If I had a cnc machine then would have been a lot more fun lol.
my cnc is only for routing parts drilling etc the max thicknes is 50 mm MDF for shelves and cabinets 18 mm thick.
i know everything needs to be strong but if i weld the frame and bolt it to the ground is it not strong enough?
i was thinking making the frame like this
Attachment 22030
Attachment 22031
I would add some triangulation trusses to the box frames - stop it twisting etc.
If you were really good at carpentry there is no reason the base could not be made from timber, it would mean very tight joints and good design but the forces to resist for machining wood are not massive so i see no reason it could not be done. Cheaper in wood? I doubt it? Easier to build - not for me as i dislike wood and like metal but for a carpenter???
Anyways, that frame needs triangulation or it will wobble each time the spindle changes direction rapidly.
Well a construction wooden beam is 68mmx38mm and kost about 1€ per meter
steel 50x50x3 kost about 3 to 4 euro a meter
so it will be a lot cheaper but jes then i would make it with haf lap joist and srew en glue everything together
everything thats steel will be bolted trough the wood .
and triangulation trusses in both way's?
Definitely - the frame has to resist the thrust created by the spindle changing direction in all directions so a good sturdy base is essential. Downwards it needs to resist the weight of the material plus the force of the drill or tool etc, no sagging or spring so again, a good firm base is needed.
Without triangulation if you use min 80x80x3. Otherwise as others said.
Forget about "wood" and a "machine" in one sentence, "machine" and "steel" go better.
You constantly use the word "cheap" but i wonder how much you would charge for a custom kitchen and so in Germany? As i know what we charge here Germans in Spain and they find it relatively cheap. Forget that word, make the machine and start making money.
You could save yourself a lot of money and time if you buy this but how much it would cost to Germany I'm not sure.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Linear-mot...wAAOSwCQZZLelQ
I see an almost finished gantry when I look at this
I can not find in posts if sb mentioned it earlier but I think that from Germany this is the best thing he could buy http://www.ebay.es/itm/CNC-Set-20x-1...53.m1438.l2649
Ok, Not Hiwin. But Cheap, in Germany and supported square rail.
thx for the link very interesting
I have changed the design of the machine a bit
Everything will be made out of 80x80x4 mm thick steel
My gantry way's about 50 KG of steel.
I think the supported rails way about 6.6kg and the Z AX about 10 kg .
So in total ist about 66.6 kg but maybe take 80 kg just to be sure.
can i use these motors with a r&p system?
i was thinking going the mechmate way : they hold the pinion against the rail with a spring.
Attachment 22099
Attachment 22100
the machine is still in design fase so i can change a lot so if u guy's have more advice let me know
thx
You could move 60-70 gantry with 2x 3nm nema 23 motor driven at 70VDC, as most people on forum do.
The motor you show is nema 34, will have more inertia. Ok, looking at the inductance of it its not too bad, i could say its even good. But you will need to drive it at least 110VDC as per its chart, or even better use 230V main power drives, which are much more expensive than AM822.
for software i would like to use estlcam ist a cad and machine sofware together and very easy in use.
is there a set of nema 23 that u reccomend or do's it not really matter only that they need to be 3nm?
What about this set?
http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/DE-Free-...cAAOSwiQ9ZR3aF
this is the short motor. You need the longer Nema 23 . Could buy it from Uk, Price is good and they have full kit with drives, https://www.cnc4you.co.uk/Stepper-Mo...YGH301B-Nema23
could this one work ? Attachment 22164
it could but is not the ideal. I pointed you the previous message to the ideal. Building the CNc you can make like 500 mistakes. When you are not sure which, what why, just follow the recommendations :-) or look more carefully into the data. And when you dont know what it means, follow the ...
Attachment 22166
witch driver is the best for those stepper motor's ?
can i use arduino uno with the drivers?
its because i want to use estlcam and it works with arduino uno or xPRO V3 Controller Stepper Driver so can i use these with the drivers?
Got the steel since friday i was a lot and very heavy.
this weekeind i started to weld everything together with a small inverter and it works very well.
Just a question do i need to bolt the machine to the floor ? do i need to put rubber between the bottom of the legs and the floor to have the less vibrations?
Attachment 22692
Attachment 22693Attachment 22694
No. No need to bolt the machine to the floor I have mine on castors but when it is in place I lift it off the floor on wooden blocks otherwise it would walk about.Quote:
Just a question do i need to bolt the machine to the floor ? do i need to put rubber between the bottom of the legs and the floor to have the less vibrations?
Like Clive, my machine sits on wooden pads under each of the adjustable feet, which can be lifted to make use of the castors. The plan was to make the machine mobile so I can pull it away from the wall if I needed to work on long lengths of material. Wood or hard rubber (like the commercial adjustable feet) are fine.
just a question
the supported round rails ( not hiwin etc)
Attachment 22709
those carts how many kg can they carry , because my gantry is becoming very heavy.
My rails are the SBR 20
i got a lot of work done this weekend
the machine has finaly got the rails mounted and they run very smooth
the gantry rails mounted
everything is welded and made grinded for paint
next weekend i will paint the machine
then i need to move the machine on its right place level
mount the r&p, the motor's, drivers etc so a lot of work but i am very happy with the result so far
a couple of my friends where shocked to see this
Attachment 23027
It starts to look very nice. There is something in that metal structures that i like...
thx
its still a lot of work but i hope everything will work out very good.
https://www.cnc4you.co.uk/Stepper-Mo...-4-Axis-Nema23
is this the best set for the machine?
there will be a lot of replies that say "68V PSU and AM882 drivers." I agree - you are building a good machine so don't spoil it by using under-powered motors. Those motors themselves would be fine but they will really deliver better performance at a higher voltage and drivers to match.
SO 68V PSU and AM882 drivers is the better opion then?
the steppermotor's are they ok and i can mount them directly to the rack&pinion ?
or do i need to use a gearbox of some sort?
Well its bean a very long time since i last came here ...
Shortly after I started working out the CNC machine, I bought a land, bought a wife a year later and married a year later
and start building a year later.
Our house is now finished and in the meantime I have been able to finish everything due to the corona crisis and finally had some time to continue working on my cnc.
The frame of the cnc is built in a steel tube of 80x80x4 and is 3200x1760.
I have a milling range of 2760x1240.
it has round supporting guidance and works with R&P system (direct drive). the nema 23 motors are pulled against the rack by a spring.
the software i use is estlcam with an arduino uno.
I personally find estlcam a very user-friendly software.
Now I still had some minor problems including:
the gear does hit the rack but at some point it slips, what could be the reason?
If I put the machine home (at a rather low speed) at the x axis it goes to 0 and goes back a bit
on the other side the other motor (X2) runs very slowly and if the machine is homed then it seems to me that the X2 motor "jumps" back 1 cm. What could be the reason for this?
if I have the machine home so X0 Y0 Z0 estlcam software says that I sometimes have distance and step loss could this also be due to the gear or the smaller limit switches?
regards
Up