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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
dazp1976
Steppers are generally all rated 2-3Vdc yes?.
My understanding is that if you give a coil on the stepper the rated voltage (2-3V) it will draw the rated current.
If you give a stepper a higher voltage, the current will also increase and the thing will burn up.
But we're not doing that - we're using stepper drivers. These give the motor the full voltage in "punches" to limit the average current to a set value. Therefore its entirely reasonable that the voltage supplied to the driver is important for the reasons Jazz sets out.
Blanket recommendations are dangerous either way - you need to consider all the factors like the steppers inductance and current limits to determine what will blow and what won't. NEMA 17 or 23 is just a mounting size, and has no real effect on this.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
dazp1976
See my previous post on this. I have same board.
Is the 5v feed not to the top right of the BOB?
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
dazp1976
It's recommended to use a bare ended usb cable from a psu to the board header in order to both avoid PC usb noise and keep board protection.
Have you a link to this recommendation - I have two identical cards in my machine fed from the local supply so I'm interested if I have a dormant problem or not.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
dazp1976
Steppers are generally all rated 2-3Vdc yes?. So if said nema 17 / 23 or 34 (2-3Vdc) were put on the same driver why would I only blow the 17? (unless I didn't change the current output).
I didn't say it would blow it up, I said it would destroy them and this is true. They couldn't handle the heat and that would kill them eventually depending on voltage.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
dazp1976
Also inductance. There are Nema 34's out there that are abysmal running on 60V supplies and ideally need at least 120Vdc to work reliably.
Also there are now drivers on the market with direct 240Vac input connections so no need for psu's anyway. These are aimed at nema17-23 size. Why would these not burn them up either?
You'll find that many of the drives that use 240Vac won't run small motors for the same reason I mentioned before, most don't even limit current below 5a. The drives you speak of which use AC voltage and can run Nema 17/23 use Low AC voltage which you transform down from 230Vac and that gets rectified to DC in the drive.
I fit 230 Vac drives all the time and I can tell you that if I fitted those little motors or nema 17 motors to the drives they would be fried within hours. Even with small (4nm) Nema 34 motors you have to be very careful and make sure you limit current correctly because current it proportional to Voltage and you cannot limit the voltage so they get hot.
This is physics it's not me making shit up and just because you haven't experienced it doesn't mean your correct it what your saying. Unless you know it to be true then I suggest you STFU because it's hazardous to components life and even dangerous in some circumstances.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
dazp1976
I and many others use 60Vdc at least using larger 34 size drivers to run nema17 & 23 size motors. Even that goes against the grain and it's worked for years.
No it's doesn't go against the grain and it's perfectly acceptable because the voltage is much lower and the motors can handle it. Again physics comes into play and there is an ideal voltage where motors run with-in safe tolerances, most people running more than 60vdc with NEMA 17/23 motors are running past the motor's ideal voltage but only just so it's not a problem. Think of it like overclocking a PC, it works but will shorten the PC's life unless it's cooled better, same shit here.! . . . Running higher than ideal voltages your actually shortening the motors life but who cares because it's going to take years if only 10-20v over but double the rated voltage or more and it won't take long. (unless cooled massively)
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ngwagwa
Pictures of currrent control box - I was wrong I don't appear to have a 5v supply.
Can we have a overall pic of the complete box as it will help make things clearer.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
https://lozharroplures.co.uk/my_images/11.jpg
I have removed the V5 spindle controller and the driver for the 4th axis.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Ok looking at that then the original transformer is being used to power the original board at the top. The transformer says 28V (this is AC voltage) which is about right for the drives ending up around 36V when rectified.
The original board will also probably transformer it down to 5V and that's where the BOB is getting it from. Trace the wires from the 5V terminals on the BOB and you'll probably find they route back to this board.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
JAZZ - yes the 5v to the BOB is fed from the vertcal 42 pin connector on the Baldor card. I think I would prefer to by a 5v transformer which should then make the Baldor redundant, just have to work out how to do the E-Stop.
I have found the BOB axis controls, they also feed into the 42 pin connector and am looking for the feeds from the board to the steppers (4 found and 2 to go)
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1 Attachment(s)
Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ngwagwa
JAZZ - yes the 5v to the BOB is fed from the vertcal 42 pin connector on the Baldor card. I think I would prefer to by a 5v transformer which should then make the Baldor redundant, just have to work out how to do the E-Stop.
I have found the BOB axis controls, they also feed into the 42 pin connector and am looking for the feeds from the board to the steppers (4 found and 2 to go)
These boards are usually wired as this below. Trace the wiring back just to double check it to be sure.
Attachment 27750
Shows 5v in on the bottom 3 right connectors. This is likely how it's powered atm.
e-stop P10, limits P12-15, spindle switch+speed all run off the seperate 24v input on the right.
Was at least 5 years ago when I was advised against using the bottom connectors for 5v. Told it's more ideal to modify a usb lead instead due to the protection circuitry.
Trying to re-find information on the net is a pig. :rolleyes:
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ngwagwa
JAZZ - yes the 5v to the BOB is fed from the vertcal 42 pin connector on the Baldor card. I think I would prefer to by a 5v transformer which should then make the Baldor redundant, just have to work out how to do the E-Stop.
I have found the BOB axis controls, they also feed into the 42 pin connector and am looking for the feeds from the board to the steppers (4 found and 2 to go)
That should be easy enough just follow wires to steppers. If there was a better picture of the original board i could probably tell you. There will be 4 wires per stepper. So look for blocks of 4wires that will probably be same colour wires.
The E-stop is easy enough and you have relays and contactors in there but first, you will need to find their voltages and what other things you need to control. I see what looks like a spindle Speed controller board so this will need to be incorporated into your wiring and safety etc.
To be honest, if you are going to start again with a new controller and drives then I suggest you trace wires and label them, then rip out everything else in the control box and start afresh. It's often quicker more reliable and less confusing.
If you inventory what you have and find the voltages etc and tell me what controller you are going to use I will happily help you work out a wiring schematic.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
dazp1976
Was at least 5 years ago when I was advised against using the bottom connectors for 5v. Told it's more ideal to modify a usb lead instead due to the protection circuitry.
Trying to re-find information on the net is a pig. :rolleyes:
Not sure I'd trust that information. I wouldn't trust USB for a CNC machine, not even to provide 5V as it's notorious for dropping out. The PSU would be protected by it's own circuitry and if the BOB as protection built into the USB connection which isn't on the 5v terminal then I'd take the risk for the sake of £5. I'd rather have it blow up than keep cutting out thru power dropouts while cutting, Only takes one job and you've lost far more than £5.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
JAZZCNC
Not sure I'd trust that information. I wouldn't trust USB for a CNC machine, not even to provide 5V as it's notorious for dropping out. The PSU would be protected by it's own circuitry and if the BOB as protection built into the USB connection which isn't on the 5v terminal then I'd take the risk for the sake of £5. I'd rather have it blow up than keep cutting out thru power dropouts while cutting, Only takes one job and you've lost far more than £5.
It's worked so far taking 5v from a small switched psu into a usb cable. However. I might change it round now you've convinced me on it.
If I can make enough money I'll be swapping to an ess and get a new BoB rated for 200+khz asap for axis control anyway. My current board will go to run spindle/ limits/ estop etc. Well that's once I pluck up the courage to tackle the spindle wiring :rolleyes:
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
JAZZCNC
To be honest, if you are going to start again with a new controller and drives then I suggest you trace wires and label them, then rip out everything else in the control box and start afresh. It's often quicker more reliable and less confusing.
If you inventory what you have and find the voltages etc and tell me what controller you are going to use I will happily help you work out a wiring schematic.
Ripping everything out sounds good to me but in the meantime while I get al the bits together I have taken up Doddys offer of a 36V power supply which I want to put on the Z axis to run the machine. I have foud four wires in the controller for the X Axis stepper but the stepper has 6 wires and they arent shown on the Denford wiring diagram for the umbilical connector from controller box to machine.
Here are pics of the 2 relays on the rail:
https://lozharroplures.co.uk/my_images/14.jpg
https://lozharroplures.co.uk/my_images/15.jpg
Much appreciate the offer of a wiring diagram.
I have been speaking to an old friend who is electrical savvy I can use two of the toroidal transformers that I linked to earlier in parallel to get 600Va.
I intend to use an AXBB-E motion controller and UCCNC and the drivers linked to earlier (unless you know any better options)
I have these transformers:
24V 3A
24V 14.6A
12V 2A
And there is an RFI Filter already fitted to the mains input
E-Stop will suffice on the big red button only.
Anything else you need let me know
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Just to be pedantic: You've shown a number of power suppliers - not transformers (there's a subtlety in the wording there). I'd hold onto the 3A PSU for services and sensors, and supplement it with a new toroidal transformer for the drivers. Possibly hold onto the 12V depending on what it's currently used for, but it would make sense to rationalise the cabinet as far as is practicable, if for nothing else other than ease of maintenance). Your friend's suggestion of using two toroidal in parallel - broadly speaking, yes, but you're getting little benefit than using a single big one, unless you already have access to these? (or are looking to increase in future?, possibly just provision for the space of a future toroidal? - might make sense). I'm not quite sold on wiring two transformers in parallel that might have a different manufacturing tolerance - you could end up pumping some power from one transformer into another, but the power involved might be lost in the noise.
Your choice of 36V for the Z? - the original idea was to understand if the increased voltage improved your most susceptible axis. But that's your call and your game - leave you to it. I'd recommend replacing with the BFG toroidal transformer in the future.
Steppers with 6 wires?, measure the resistance between these - three will be (likely) connected to each coil - centre tapped, you probably should connect between the two wires of each three that has the greatest resistance (example you might find A-B = 1.5R, B-C = 1.5R, A-C = 3R, connect to A-C)
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Doddy
Just to be pedantic: You've shown a number of power suppliers - not transformers (there's a subtlety in the wording there). I'd hold onto the 3A PSU for services and sensors, and supplement it with a new toroidal transformer for the drivers. Possibly hold onto the 12V depending on what it's currently used for, but it would make sense to rationalise the cabinet as far as is practicable, if for nothing else other than ease of maintenance). Your friend's suggestion of using two toroidal in parallel - broadly speaking, yes, but you're getting little benefit than using a single big one, unless you already have access to these? (or are looking to increase in future?, possibly just provision for the space of a future toroidal? - might make sense). I'm not quite sold on wiring two transformers in parallel that might have a different manufacturing tolerance - you could end up pumping some power from one transformer into another, but the power involved might be lost in the noise.
Your choice of 36V for the Z? - the original idea was to understand if the increased voltage improved your most susceptible axis. But that's your call and your game - leave you to it. I'd recommend replacing with the BFG toroidal transformer in the future.
Steppers with 6 wires?, measure the resistance between these - three will be (likely) connected to each coil - centre tapped, you probably should connect between the two wires of each three that has the greatest resistance (example you might find A-B = 1.5R, B-C = 1.5R, A-C = 3R, connect to A-C)
Sorry for the incorrect terminology. I won't be throwing anything away and the 12V was for the V5 Spindle controller which isn't used.
Z was a typo should have been X
I have discovered the coils are centre tapped and I know which are which, my problem now is finding out where the tap leads go to.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ngwagwa
I have discovered the coils are centre tapped and I know which are which, my problem now is finding out where the tap leads go to.
They don't go anywhere just terminate them so can't short.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Doddy - I was advised using two identical toroidals in parallel would be OK if they were identical units but warend against using different suppliers/models. I was looking at going that way as I have been unable to find a single unit with the required output - have you any suggestions?
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
JAZZCNC
They don't go anywhere just terminate them so can't short.
On the machine side I can't get to them inside the cabinet (short of cutting them where they enter the stepper). According to the Denford documentation they do not connect to the umbilical. I will look if I can see them on the underside of the machine tomorrow.
Just before I left the workshop I was reading somewhere that was saying depending what you do with the tap wires will give more speed or more torque but I can't seem to find it now, my . laptop must be as forgetful as me.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ngwagwa
Doddy - I was advised using two identical toroidals in parallel would be OK if they were identical units but warend against using different suppliers/models. I was looking at going that way as I have been unable to find a single unit with the required output - have you any suggestions?
Sound advice from your mate.
The 2x35V transformer that you linked suffers from being in no-mans land - wiring the secondaries in series will generate a DC terminal voltage of around 100V (outside of the range of the majority of stepper drivers and too high for the small steppers on the denford). In parallel they'd through out about 50V - too much for the cheap nasty stepper drivers and too low to exploit a decent digital driver effectively. It'd work, but it's not in the Goldilocks zone.
Personally, if I was looking at CPC then I'd look at their 2x25V options (e.g. https://cpc.farnell.com/multicomp/mc...%20transformer) - wiring the secondaries in series to generate a 50VAC/70V pk DC terminal voltage for an 80V drive. Personally, I think 300VA would be sufficient but note the previous advice of giving yourself headroom with a 500w should you need to grow. Or parallel similar as your mate suggested.
BUT, much depends on your choice of stepper driver. That's really your first decision point before speccing the transformer.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Doddy
BUT, much depends on your choice of stepper driver. That's really your first decision point before speccing the transformer.
I was considering these drivers https://www.cnc4you.co.uk/Microstepp...tepping-CW8060 JAZZ said they were overkill but would do. If you can suggest a better driver I am open to advice bearing in mind an earlier comment by JAZZ that if I needed to replace a stepper in the future it would likely need more power (or words to that effect).
Also would these be right for use on your suggested toroidal transformer?
https://cpc.farnell.com/on-semicondu...ngdom%2Fsearch
and 4 of these in parallel
https://cpc.farnell.com/multicomp/mc...9?st=capacitor
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Doddy
Your choice of 36V for the Z? - the original idea was to understand if the increased voltage improved your most susceptible axis. But that's your call and your game - leave you to it. I'd recommend replacing with the BFG toroidal transformer in the future.
)
My thoughts too.
Look at the inductance level on the steppers. Square root the figure and then multiply by 32.
This will give you your ideal voltage for the steppers to sing.
For example an inductance of 3.5mh= 3.5 Sqrt *32 = 59V!!
Inductance of 2.5mh= 2.5 sqrt*32 = 50V!!
Inductance of 8mh= 8 sqrt*32 = 90.5V!!
See where I'm going with this?
You'll find 36V with nema23 size motors is a bit of a dissapointment. You want at least 48V.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
dazp1976
M
You'll find 36V with nema23 size motors is a bit of a dissapointment. You want at least 48V.
Daz you seem to have missed a few of the posts. The 36V was/is only intended as a test/stop gap measure
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
dazp1976
Inductance of 8mh= 8 sqrt*32 = 90.5V!!
See where I'm going with this?
Ye, I see it as well and now go find me a typical low Nm nema17 or 23 with an inductance of 8Mh.! . . . . Doesn't matter how you want to try to spin it, you can't put 100v on a small stepper and expect it to last long. Put 240V on it and watch what happens to it. (In fact I think I have some small motors kicking around and a mains 240V drive, so when I get back to work I'll show you exactly what happens!)
If you don't believe me then go read the rest of the Gecko info where you got those figures from and read what Maris Fremanis the Owner of Gecko as to say about it and the effects of having too high a voltage.!
I know you probably didn't like me pulling you up on what you said, but it was wrong and misleading so it could quite easily end up in someone burning their house down if they listened to your wrong advice. That's why it needed pointing out and why you need to watch what you say unless known to be absolutely correct.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Found what may be a suitable transformer 36+36v and 625va
https://airlinktransformers.com/prod...ange-cm0625236
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ngwagwa
That is a good company. Before you buy it. state what final output voltage AC or DC you are trying to achieve and with what drives you will be using.
Personally I think 625va is a bit overkill . I use 4 nema 23 3.1Nm on my router with 500Va
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ngwagwa
This would be better. 625Va is too much and you could run into issues with in-rush trips. 500Va is plenty and like I said you could get away with 300Va but doesn't leave much upgrade room.
However, you must wire in parallel, not series because you'll have 70Vac in series which will give 95Vdc + when rectified to DC and that will produce Magic smoke from those drives.!
If you want to go with series wiring then look for 2 x 20V 500Va. This will give aprox 55Vdc
Choice is yours.!
I noticed earlier you linked to Bridge and Caps. The bridge is correct but the Caps are wrong. 330Uf is far too low
You want to be looking for 3 x 100V 4700Uf. You could use 4 but 3 will work fine.
https://airlinktransformers.com/prod...rmer-cm0500235
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
JAZZCNC
Ye, I see it as well and now go find me a typical low Nm nema17 or 23 with an inductance of 8Mh.! . . . . .
3nm with 6.8mh https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3pcs-Nema...kAAOSw5CZcig1u
3nm with 9mh https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1pc-Nema-...1338d93d000784
3nm from supposed respected company: 6.8mh in parallel 27.2mh in series!! wth. https://www.automationtechnologiesin...l23h286-20-8b/
0.54nm Nema17 with 4.8mh is shocking enough afaic. https://www.automationtechnologiesin...epper-motor-3/
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
JAZZCNC
If you want to go with series wiring then look for 2 x 20V 500Va. This will give aprox 55Vdc
I guess with 55Vdc I will hve to go with 80V controller then (the next one donw being 50V)?
https://www.cnc4you.co.uk/Microstepp...tepping-CW8060
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
dazp1976
See here you go again giving out wrong information and not understanding how steppers work.!!
First, it's 27mh in series not parallel and that isn't uncommon when wired in series. For our needs with routers, it's 6Mh which just means it's a shit motor and to give it a wide birth.
It's a known fact that motors wired in series have higher Mh and require higher voltage if you want speed from them, this is why most of those you list have high inductance. If you look all except the third on list only have 4 wires and are probably Series wound motors.? Again anyone who fits these to a router is a moron who didn't do his research.!
However, all of this doesn't change the fact that your advice that "Doesn't matter wether you have Nema 17/ 23/ 34size motors etc, the drivers regulate output voltage to the motors themselves." is seriously wrong and potentially dangerous if took to the extremes ie: 240Vac drives with nema 17 motors.
I'm done with this now.!!
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ngwagwa
Yes or if you want to use with 50V drives then size transformer accordingly. Just remember you need to leave a 10% safety margin so don't size transformer to give 50V or even 48V.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Great, now things are starting to come together so I intend using:
AXBB-E Motion controller powered with Existing 24V power supply and new 5V PSU (see bellow)
500VA 230v to 2x35v Toroidal transformer (wired in parallel) https://airlinktransformers.com/prod...rmer-cm0500235
Bridge Rectifier Diode, Single Phase, 400 V, 35 A
4 OFF Electrolytic Capacitor, 4700 µF, 100 VDC
3 OFF Stepper Motor Driver 6.0A, 80V CNC https://www.cnc4you.co.uk/Microstepp...tepping-CW8060
Regarding the 5V supply the blurb from CNCDrive say We recommend to use a power supply with at least 500mAmps of current capability of thepower supply. More current may be required if more I/Os are used.so this should be well suitable?
50W 5V DC 10A Enclosed Switchmode Power Supply https://cpc.farnell.com/tt-electroni...90?st=5v%20psu
This was selected as it is cheap enough and as I will be ordering toher stuff from CPC I will get free delivery
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
5V PSU is fine; overkill, but fine. CPC do sell DIN rail PSUs which are more costly, and lower rated but would give you an immediate solution to mounting this in your enclosure (I'm not going back through your pics but imagine there's a bit of rail spare in there somewhere?) There's one for a tad under £20 in CPC - more expensive, but either would work.
If you wanted to offset the cost I can throw a couple of 10,000uF / 160VDC (I think... cba to go to the shed at this time to check) caps at you - I just keep tripping over them, and having bought a job-load of them there's not many projects that they are suited for. But I think you'll be hitting CPC anyway for the bridge (I've nothing suitable).
I do think the choice of transformer voltage is not the best - as Jazz said it puts you at the bottom end of the next-level of stepper driver voltages (cheap - upto 50V, next level upto 80V and then around 110V before mains), you're too high to use the 50V drivers and so you're paying for 80V drivers and not really exploiting this. 2x45 wired in parallel would present around 60V which gives you a bit more bang for your buck at no extra cost. I'd go for... https://airlinktransformers.com/prod...ange-cm0300245
If it helps - I run a 2x50V 800W toroidal primarily on a Sieg but I can and do slave the Denford star mill (probably similar motors) from this. The choice of transformer was a Maplins clearance sale bargain, but it was close enough to what I wanted.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Cheers Doddy.
I will stick to the cheap overkill 5V PSU
As you say I will be hitting CPC so will get 4 capacitors there.
Re the transformer the 35V ones I originally selected were 500VA, the ones you suggest are 300VA did you mean to link to this https://airlinktransformers.com/prod...ange-cm0500245 if so then point taken and this will be the one I use.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Full reveal: I believe 300VA is enough for you and there's an air of cost-consciousness in your posts. If you're happy to suck up £20 extra for a pretty-much guaranteed future-proofing then go with it. You'll regret not doing it if you later need it, you'll probably not regret going 500VA if you don't need it.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
While being cost conscious I don't mind paying a little extra for future proofing, Thanks
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
JAZZCNC
See here you go again giving out wrong information and not understanding how steppers work.!!
First, it's 27mh in series not parallel and that isn't uncommon when wired in series. For our needs with routers, it's 6Mh which just means it's a shit motor and to give it a wide birth.
It's a known fact that motors wired in series have higher Mh and require higher voltage if you want speed from them, this is why most of those you list have high inductance. If you look all except the third on list only have 4 wires and are probably Series wound motors.? Again anyone who fits these to a router is a moron who didn't do his research.!
However, all of this doesn't change the fact that your advice that "Doesn't matter wether you have Nema 17/ 23/ 34size motors etc, the drivers regulate output voltage to the motors themselves." is seriously wrong and potentially dangerous if took to the extremes ie: 240Vac drives with nema 17 motors.
I'm done with this now.!!
You asked for examples. I wouldn't use them for paperweights and they theoretically should not be allowed on the market to dupe people.
Would avoid Automation Technologies when it comes to a lot of steppers too. Pretty dire afaic. Seen many recommend A,T. Shocker.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
dazp1976
You asked for examples. I wouldn't use them for paperweights and they theoretically should not be allowed on the market to dupe people.
They are not duping people if they provide the relevent details. For some applications they are perfectly fine. It's the users responsabilty to know what they are buying and make sure they are fit for purpose. In case of routers they are not unless used with higher voltages, there are better choices and that's why we use them.
But I do agree I wouldn't use these nasties either even if correct for the job.!!
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Right folks.
I have the 36V PSU kindly donated by Doddy installed an powered alongside a DIV268N to drive the X axis
BOB connected to the driver as follows:
5V connected to DIR+ PUL+ EN+
EN to EN-
XDIR to DIR-
XCLK to PUL-
I have found the correct 4 wires for the stepper and which are pairs - does it matter which pair is connected to A and B on the driver and how do I know which is + or - ?
I think the only missing thing is the dip switch settings
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Stepper: If it goes in the wrong direction, swap one pair.
Pull the EN signal for now - without the enable signal the driver defaults to ON. Once you get it working then re-assess if this is part of your e-stop strategy.
DIP-switch, start with 8 micro-steps and maybe 2.5A or thereabouts. If the motor gets uncomfortable warm then think to reduce - but that current should be safe.
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Re: Losing steps/position, again
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Doddy
Stepper: If it goes in the wrong direction, swap one pair.
.
I am just getting a knocking noise - no movement.
I forgot about the 5th and 6th wires from the steppers. They run from the stepper to the underside of the cabinet - I will try and trace th- this may take some time.....
UPDATE
I have manage to get underneath (glad the router wasn't sat on a table) and it looks like the rogue blue and white cables are connected through the umbilical (the wiring diagram I have does not show them). Thre are several identical multicore cables going from inside the cabinet through to the underside and as my arms aren't long enough I am going to have to leave it until tomorrow as I don't want to cut the wrong ones.
