Attachment 16341Attachment 16342Attachment 16343
Printable View
More pictures
Attachment 16344Attachment 16345Attachment 16346
Ouch.!!. . . Thats a silly amount for one drive. You should have mentioned on here because could have got you 3 much better drives for not much more.!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiprat
Anyway nice to see your enjoying CNC good fun isn't it.
The drives i have are for a closed loop hybrid stepper and ive looked everywhere for them and the price is about the same....cheaper from asia but rather pay extra from the uk.
Think i broke it from my inexperience with motor tuning so ive learnt to be extra careful in that department...
Its an HBS86 superseeded by the EBS86 i think. mine was with postage and packaging but if anyone knows of them cheaper, then im interested for future reference...hopefully not though..
Cheers Skiprat
Ok I see I was going on the cheap drives in the picture but your correct they can be got cheaper from asia. Also I can tell you it won't have broke thru incorrect motor tuning and at worst you would just stall the motors which won't hurt them. In correctly wired yes tuning No.Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiprat
Often the drives will give some indication thru flashing fault lights. If it just died then it could be due to Voltage spikes or maybe poor or loose motor wires, often the drives will have an internal fuse you can change. Or could have just been a Friday afternoon job when built.??
funny enough i was playing with machine for a few months before my small cnc came available and the lights kept flashing overload....the only way to reset was to switch off the supply and back on...being a cold shed and sudden changes in state for the drive..i assumed the voltage spikes...i work in the electrical industry so should of known that..my own mistake...took drive apart and it looks like a wired resistor blew so might play with that at a later date..hopefully resurrect it...the pictures show the 6040 cnc i won on ebay and the drives which up to now have been faultless, but i do have a selection of new drives available if these fail as predicted on most forums...
The motors were pre wired on my kitchen table before the move into cold shed so i do believe you are correct in the voltage spike syndrome...friday afternoon im too busy on the beer to but have been known to play in my shed under the influence...:emmersed::barbershop_quartet_:worked_ till_5am:
But as you said cnc is to much fun to be easy...love the stuff.
Cheers Skiprat
Some other pictures
Attachment 16349Attachment 16350
Whats the small gear under the large gear doing.?
The small gear is just the center of the large gear. The gears were ripped out of a motor rotor type box which fortunately i have 3 of. The small one if removed leaves a bore of approx 12mm in the big gear so instead of machining a shaft, i just left the little gear in which has the same bore of 8mm, which is the same as the shaft, other gears in picture and the bearings i bought. Now i know it works, i can find or buy some aluminium plate and cut some permanent fixtures.
Basically the small gear is doing nothing but being the right size bore for the big gear but cost nothing since i already had them.
Might buy some other gears as one unit because the way ive designed it, i can move the plate to accommodate different size gears.
Cheers Skiprat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiprat
like your style.
The following photos might explain better if my explanation was'nt clear.
Attachment 16361Attachment 16362Attachment 16363
well here is an update very well over due.
Built all the gearboxes and they worked great but i ended up with a square sided circle.
Research recommended doing some stiffening of the axis, which i did but to no avail.
I then got hold of an industrial gearbox for the stepper but it was so low geared it was not right....i.e the stepper was turning as it highest rated speed and the moment was so slow it wasn't good.
So off to drawing board and loads more research and i acquired some aluminium plate and ordered a full set of T5 16mm pulleys and belts to make a new solid style gear reducer of approx 3.2:1.
The difference was unbelievable to the stiffness of the axis. I still get a square circle but haven't completed the other 2 reducers, so at the moment i have a T5 pulley system on the x axis but geared reducers on the y axis o i think this needs eliminating first.
I have a Closed loop stepper system so wonder if this has implications with the software side.
It seems as though the x axis is stopping before reversing but the y axis is still moving , hence the straight bit.
Any thought appreciated.
Cheers Skiprat.
Pictures to follow in no particular order...(Too lazy to organise.)
The horrible stupid looking circle that wont go away...YET..The square seems ok but circle always has flat spot easily seen in photo to the right....BUGGER
Attachment 16758
Update from last post....i done some research on the flat circle and basically it was either slack or tightness in the axis. On looking and testing machine i knew it couldn't be the slackness as the machine is built like a small tank at the moment. Basically the x axis could be pushed with your little finger but the y axis had to be pushed hard with your whole hand.
Stripped the y axis off the machine reset it etc etc but still a load of crap.
Found the x axis was smooth and by the time the y axis had enough torque to reverse, the axis was stationary for a small time whilst the x axis was still moving hence the straight line.
Put my hand in my deep pocket and decided to get rid of the drylin rails and replace them with some hiwin rails.
Completely stripped the axis down again and fortunately the holes lined up and replaced the rails. Remade the z axis plates which were bolted to 4 Hiwin carriages.
Attachment 17563Attachment 17564Attachment 17565
Finished off making the aluminium plates for the motors and bolted these to the rails .......
Test cut revealed i still had a flat spot so i was well P**** off.....loads of money but no fix....
Attachment 17566Attachment 17567Attachment 17568Attachment 17569Attachment 17570
Further testing and found the large aluminium T5 pulley was a second(ish) behind the smaller pulley on the motor. Stripped it down and found the grub screws loose....tightened the up, put machine together and tested....
WEEHHHHHEEEEEEEEE
Perfect circles and squares...Well worth the money.
Now i can start making the machine look more cosmetically pleasing as now i know it cuts perfect.
Well pleased. Updates to come.
Skiprat
Circle and square...Attachment 17571Attachment 17572
Great! Glad that it makes circles now.
It was my mistake on first machine also. Now i fix all screws and shafts with Locktite and where necessary with stronger Locktite cement.
Thanks for that Boyan.
When i get back into shed to make it look nicer, i will cement the grub screws in as you mentioned.
Hopefully never have to replace the pulleys.
Cheers Tommy
Well im back... a few pictures to show....most of them just basically the same but machine up and running now.
Attachment 19742Attachment 19743Attachment 19744Attachment 19745Attachment 19746Attachment 19747
The build was slowed down with my holidays, a new Kitchen and bathroom install and also a drill bit getting stuck in my finger and taking out the nerve which had to be operated on. 4 weeks off work wasnt bad though...:smug: Had a tidy up and created a few files to drill the spoil board to do wood engraving.
Attachment 19748Attachment 19749Attachment 19750Attachment 19751Attachment 19752Attachment 19753
Gave the machine a clean up and started to cut....Also bought myself a Hypertherm 45 but that has been sitting next door since march and hasnt even been opened except to check contents.
Attachment 19754Attachment 19755
Also had to buy 3 new driver boxes as there was a slight wiring mishap but i have also been able to repair the 3 and use them as spares.
The spoil board is 28mm MDF cut in half and put on top off itself so the picture show it at 4ft x 4ft. The holes were plugged with 6mm threaded inserts which will be used to hold down the material to be cut. The whole lot will be fixed to the orange metal as seen in photo so as to be able to be leveled up as needed.
Once i get the Hypertherm up and running, the board will be removed to expose the water table (yet to be built). The material for the water table is underneath the MDF ready for welding.
There is still a few teething problems which i will update or change as they rear their heads. But i will be putting a few photos on to get some feed back for the connection of the Hypertherm to my THC and also to wire the VFD up to be remote controlled from Mach 3.
Hopefully gets some help from the forum....
Many thanks
Tommy
Here is a video of it operating.....its the first one ive uploaded and i have rotated it but it still came out sideways.
Need to do some research into video editing / uploaded if anyone has any ideas please?
https://youtu.be/MgE1dAob4Fg
And another one.
https://youtu.be/maGSxdrnzsM
Tommy
Machine is looking good! Don't try to tighten whatever you're clamping down too tight, the inserts pull out of the MDF really easily or distort the bed round them so it's no longer flat!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiprat
Here is a picture of the real first job...
njhussey.....same thoughts as you but upto now the bolt holes held the piece no problems but that might be because its a new piece of mdf.
Not sure after a lot of spilt coffee etc....
Light not too good but its visible.
Attachment 19784
Cheers Tommy