Thanks for the advice Hanermo2!
What do you suggest me to do ?
Hola to Sevilla ,Malaga,Barchelona....I can't recall other cities I have visited,it's been a long time.
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Thanks for the advice Hanermo2!
What do you suggest me to do ?
Hola to Sevilla ,Malaga,Barchelona....I can't recall other cities I have visited,it's been a long time.
Hi nickofen !
*Everything* depends on your goals ..
and capacity and productivity depend on rigidity above all else.
Ex.
I could cut about 0.1-0.2 mm deep with a typical setup, using a 50 mm wide 4 insert apkt facemill.
(12" Lathe, upgraded ac servo spindle 2.5 kW continuous.)
I built a modular vice using 4 pieces of 50x100-300 mm solid tool steel billets, cross-drilled for 16 mm hardened industrial grade 12.8 bolts.
Vice took 3-4 days to do, and the 4 parts mass == 50 kg.
I could then cut the same piece, about 200x200x80 mm, with 3.4 mm deep cuts at double the rpm.
The difference in productivity is about 10:1 - 20:1.
I don´t think there is a "right" answer, but vastly bigger and heavier and thicker is usually the right choice for *everything* in lathes and mills and routers.
They deliver about 20x the performance, typically for 100-150€ more in steel costs and 2 days extra work in assembly work and fitup, per assy.
Thanks for the reply Henermo!
Vfd an d spindle is here! I have to find time and connect them to test if everything is ok. Is 1.2 mm non shielded wire ok for connecting vfd with spindle?
For corrosion prevention do I have to use solution of car antifreeze liquid with water? I have read somewhere about a solution of a special anticorrosion oil with water....
I have a 2.2kw from solar jean I never added anything to the water still coming out clear in the pipes can't see anything in the bottom of the tub I have clear lines which is not good get black ones if possible (Algae).
I have an ozone pond cleaner which I'll add when I remember lol this will eliminate algae and in the abscence of visible corrosion in the reservoir I'm going to not worry lol.
I used 1.5mm but reading up 1mm would be fine as well BUT you need it shielded (CY) VFD creates a lot of interference and the most likely thing to cause you issues in the cnc.
I haven't shielded mine YET and seen no issues but I would not cut anything properly until I have (I only need to connect to earth, it's all in place)
Thanks for the reply Desertboy, I will go for shielded cables then, the cost is not much higher than the non shielded, so it is better to be CY and block all interfierence that I can.
http://www.vfds.org/vfd-and-rfi-708163.htmlQuote:
All modern VFDs use power devices known as IGBTs. These devices make it possible to minimize annoying audible noise by using switching frequencies beyond the audible range. Unfortunately, VFDs using IGBTs, present a high potential for generating RFI - Radio Frequency Interference.
Nice site,many good info there....
I've been waiting for 42 days for the T slot nuts to come from China and finally come and with them the frustrating reality!
Nuts was shorter by .20 and this make them turn and not lock in the aluminium slot!
I cover the T nuts with self adhesive tape and solve the problem, this took me one day to think it since my nerves was not in good condition,as I was keep thinking that if I make a new order, it will take another 40 days to arrive!
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Good to hear you solved the problem!
Its frustrating when you get parts that dont follow the specs ;)
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
Put the rails on the aluminium extrusions and run the caliper.
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I'm going to glue 2 T nuts together so they can't twist in the slot for my clamps to make it easier to release, move and retighten.
Is that M6 thread with a 10mm slot?
If you have a router table make them yourself that's my plan if I ever need to mount hiwin's again with extrusion.
But if you need more I can get them from KJN and post them to you for cost I'm 3 miles (4km) away from them and need to go for more T nuts this week for my clamps so it;s no hassle.
They're £4 for 10 I needed 100 for my hiwin's so I bitterly know this lol.
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Took this in their entrance, this would cost stupid money lol. Extrusion is not cheap.
Where can I find HDT5 pulleys with 10mm bore, any suggestion?
http://www.beltingonline.com - Very good to deal with.
Not sure if this helps, but I just ordered some on eBay in US. from China:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HTD-5M-20T-...72.m2749.l2649
I figured they wouldn't ship until after Chinese New Year, but they are supposedly on their way. Obviously, I can't yet speak to quality...
Regards,
Wallace
Thanks Wallace, I will check them!
They quite often just have pilot hole but have you asked them if they can bore them out for you, don't forget grub screws
I have just checked http://www.beltingonline.com/20-toot...20-5m-15f-7776 there is an option for the boring and grub screw holes. bit expensive thou , not hard to do.
Thanks guys, I just login to report that I saw that there is an option for modifying bore etc. and see your answers!
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PC-...ceBeautifyAB=0
I found those at aliexpress, they are made from aluminum alloy come with 10mm bore and two screw holes.
I am going to use 1/1 ratio for X Y and 1.5/1 for Z , are those any good, anyone has experience with those?
Any suggestions about the belts?
Just notice that they seems to be the same with those Wallace suggest ,with no shipping cost...
Hey Nick!
If you have the right length on your end machining on the ballscrew I think it's better to use pulleys with a shoulder with the setscrews and not the ones with bored out teeth.
I think it's kinder on the belt :)
Came from work today and a box was waiting for me,motors are here!:emmersed:
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AM882 are one their way home and I have to decide about the breakout board, any suggestions?
Nice, 3nm?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-axis-CN...4AAOSw4DJaZvGY
These are compatible with Mach 3 and Linuxcnc but if you want to use Mach 3 it has restrictions no later than Windows 7 and 32bit only. Step generation is done by the processor on the PC performance can be very acceptable and it's a very cheap place to start it also has proven reliability people have run setup's like this for over a decade now with no issues. You will need an old pc pentium 4's work well and have parallel ports built in generally.
Other options normally are step generators and cost a lot more but performance will be better, one to watch is boards are generally Mach 3 or Linuxcnc not both. Mach has a lot of USB controllers which work via plugins linuxcnc has no usb options at all! USB is crap TBH and should be avoided. Not sure what other options for Mach 3, Linuxcnc everyone gets a Mesa card be it PCI or Ethernet.
You could also buy a ddscv see Boran's excellent thread, for the price not a bad choice at all and I was tempted.
If you want dual homing on the Y axis (so it squares the gantry automatically) mach 3 or linuxcnc is your choice can be accomplished with a cheap breakout board. In the end this is what swumg it for me to stick with linuxcnc rather than get the standalone controller.
If you are spending all that much on the motors and drivers, then I would go for a proper motion controller not a Parallel port BOB.
For me I wanted to try both mach 3 and linuxcnc first before I locked myself into a vendor with an expensive controller purchase. I had a feeling you'd have to be a sadist to setup linuxcnc and I was right lol but I'm happy with linuxcnc (Never tried Mach in the end) so I've invested in a decent pci controller/step generator. I couldn't find a controller that was compatible with both Mach and Linuxcnc other than the PP BOB's.
These seems popular for Mach
https://www.ebay.com/p/Ethernet-Smoo...d=122092303470
Thanks both of you guys for taking the time to reply.
I have a pc with parallel port and Mach3 that I used to use with my previous CNC, so ni money to spent there for now.
Desertboy,I will find the Boran's thread and read it ,thanks for the input.
Cropwell ,I thought that parallel pots was superior that USB! Am I wrong?I am asking to learn,the only experience I have is with parallel ports.
Actually, I have only experience of PP BOBs.
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I bought this beast because it was cheap and I intended to use it for my current machine and/or the next build, but various bits of my life got in the way, so it sits in a cupboard, next to the Super-PID speed controller for my router. One day, Maybe !!!
I just think that Printer Ports are soon to be history, like floppy disks and you would be better served by looking forward rather than staying stuck in the past.
Can't really look at it in better or worse terms because the main reason for USB connection is to allow use of external motion controller which have much higher spec than parallel port. So it's not really fair to compare to PP.
The parallel port is limited to 25Khz for stable operation, if you have really good PC setup then possibly can reach 45Khz maximum.
Also the quality of pulse generation on external motion controller is often much higher quality which allows much faster and Smoother operation. Hence why often get called "Smooth Stepper" after the Original Mach3 based USB motion controller made by Warp9 in US.
The other main difference is the number of I/O it allows. The PP is much more limited.
So if you don't require high feed rates with high Micro stepping rates and can live with 5 inputs and 2 Outputs then PP will work fine.
USB will allow motion controller with more I/O and Speed and connection via laptop etc but does have some issues with reliabilty regards dropping connections and inteference from outside sources. It's also funerable to reliabilty with Windows getting in the way so needs careful setup of PC to stop interuptions while using machine.
If you want better solution then go with Ethernet based controller like Cslabs or UC300eth.
Or Linuxcnc:beer:Quote:
If you want better solution then go with Ethernet based controller like Cslabs or UC300eth.