1220 × 2440 build

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Here's design that will allow you to be more flexible with the frame. Although the base here is in one piece it could easily be made in 2 or 3 pieces and bolted together.
The important part is the full-length profile section running full length down each side. This will allow you some flexibility in adjustment so can get both rails on same plane without messing around epoxy resin etc. Must stress thou the accuracy will only really be good enough for cutting woods and softer materials. It will also take lot of setting up and tweaking until spot on.
In my experience profile is relatively flat and straight enough for wood router and does make fitting rails, ball screws etc much easier. The downside is cost so mixing steel and profile gives good balance of strength, costs and accuracy with ease of building which doesn't require too much machineing or timely and costly techniques for leveling etc.

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Thanks for that, this is exactly the route I'm looking at now. Makes sense to use the profile for exactly those reasons.

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Nice machine Dean - have you made one before ? :)

Out of interest do the profile rails down the side also bolt horizontally into the steel sections or just on the support brackets?
Would the ballscrew be drilled and tapped in the ends to bolt through the supports ears? Or the supplier may prefer to machine external threads and use a nut to tension.

Mark, as you are starting out then study this machine as it contains lots of nice features that would be missed be the casual observer. At all the critical interfaces there is scope for alignment and adjustment so you can dial it in.

And how are the motors driving the x axis?

That's one of the details that you might miss! Looks like rotating ballnuts fixed to the gantry sides, with fixed ballscrews up each side.

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Originally Posted by routercnc

Nice machine Dean - have you made one before ? :)

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No not made one using this technique because I've got large Granite surface table so use different methods to get surfaces on the same plane. Mainly to save costs because the profile is expensive compared to steel.
However, I know from experience using lots of profile this technique will work great and would certainly use it my self if needed.

The Model shown is just basic layout to give some idea of the concept and that all fit together without any hidden surprises. (Which if got keen eye will see this model does have one in gantry area which would be pain unless corrected.?)
The original design was actually setup to be R&P but also did Configuration for ballscrews which shown.

When I actually build then I model to the last detail and actually use dimensions for cutting list etc.
This way I know 100% there will be no hidden surprises or costly cock up's. Only need to be off few mm's in some key areas and can cause your whole world of pain or worse still compromise the machine.

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Originally Posted by routercnc

Out of interest do the profile rails down the side also bolt horizontally into the steel sections or just on the support brackets?
Would the ball screw be drilled and tapped in the ends to bolt through the supports ears? Or the supplier may prefer to machine external threads and use a nut to tension.

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The plan was they would bolt in both directions. This would allow more setup adjustment.
The ball screw would be threaded on the ends so can put tension on them. The brackets allow adjustment for alignment.

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Originally Posted by routercnc

Mark, as you are starting out than study this machine as it contains lots of nice features that would be missed by the casual observer. At all the critical interfaces there is scope for alignment and adjustment so you can dial it in.

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Adjustment is Key at the DIY level and the more you build in the easier and quicker you'll dial in the machine. Unless you have large Gantry Mill to machine surfaces flat, parallel etc then the only way to achieve accuracy is with adjustment and lots of patience tweaking as you go.

Here's another simpler to make design. Warn thou it's heavy. Those lower beams are 300x200x6.

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Originally Posted by HullMark

And how are the motors driving the x axis?

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It's using rotating ballnuts which are fastened to gantry sides.
Could if you wanted use conventional ball screw setup but the end brackets would need changing and you'd fasten the ballscrews to profile using BK blocks.

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

It's using rotating ballnuts which are fastened to gantry sides.
Could if you wanted use conventional ball screw setup but the end brackets would need changing and you'd fasten the ballscrews to profile using BK blocks.

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Yeah I've just been looking at some of those ... what size rails and screws will i need, both 25mm?

http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/6997-...nut-Design-MK3

These seem fairly straight forward to put together

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Originally Posted by HullMark

Yeah I've just been looking at some of those ... what size rails and screws will i need, both 25mm?

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Yes 25mm for both. Thou could actually get away with 20mm Rails if wanted but for the little extra then I wouldn't.

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Originally Posted by malcolm01

the guy jazzcnc sent a link to an American site that looked good, they have a preassembled part that I really like the look of

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CNC-...6ab831b0ZkP59s

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Looks a lot like my Z axis but I have BK12/BF12 fittings

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Cost me ~£100 to build but I recovered the Hiwin's.