Thanks :DQuote:
Originally Posted by driftspin
I hope to say the same to you soon!
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
Printable View
Thanks :DQuote:
Originally Posted by driftspin
I hope to say the same to you soon!
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
2amperes is good but how thin are the wires?
It's 0.5mm2 wires. So they should be more than fine. They just feel thin/flimsy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
I'm used to 1.5mm2 wires ;)
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
You are just fine,according to this :
Attachment 24006
Okey.. Had another false e-stop today while surfacing a spoilboard :(
But that is something I can chase, try, tinker with and scream at.
Have another problem, when homing my dual motor axis something have happened.
Uccnc seemed to release the slave axis (has to to square the gantry) when I paired them again I can't home?
And if I restart the computer I can home again but just once?
I can still home z and y how many times I want..
Suggestions? :)
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
So I thought :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
What do you mean when say "When I paired them again" .? The software should be taking care of the homing seamlessly in the background and you shouldn't have to be doing anything.!
Well.. I messed up a "home x" session with an e -stop :DQuote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
After that uccnc said slave a axis to x axis but only x motor moved.
So I chose slave none, saved, then slaved a axis again.
Now they work while running programs and jogging but "home x" does not work as it should..
My bad but how do I fix it? ;)
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
Ok well if changing the settings isn't working then I'd suggest you re-install UCCNC. Maybe got a corrupted file or plug-in.?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
Good morning!
Lovely day today, gonna tidy up some wires and see if I get better results :D
Any feeds and speeds tip for surfacing plywood with a 12mm 4 flute endmill hss.
Not really a suitable tool but the biggest I got right now :)
Have figured out that 1 or 2 flute would be better!
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
4500rpm, 4000mm/min 2mm DOC, full width.
Definitely not the ideal tool :)
Do not hurry now,try to get a bigger one,a bit with a cutting surface about 20 or more mm will save you much working time from the machine an d a better result.
Hmm dont think my spindle can handle 4500rpm. Standard Chinese 2.2kw thingy.. Will try 6000rpm ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Davek0974
Thanks :D
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
Ofcourse ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
That would be the smart thing!
I just want to flatten maybe 400x400mm and try to tram the spindle.
Will try to get better material than ply for my "real" spoilboard :)
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
I bought a 12.7mm 2 flute trend straight router cutter for wood and found it has a far better finish than the 2 flute carbide endmills I bought from China. The 2 flute carbide endmills leave an excellent finish with aluminium.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
I used 18mm MDF which in the UK is the same price as ply but machines better and is flatter but you loose the ability to mist with oil for aluminium cutting.
I think mdf is cheaper here, depending on the quality of the ply. Marine ply and birchply is insanely expensive :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertboy
The ply Im using is scraps from my shed, to get me started!
When I feel somewhat secure, safe and possibly tipsy I will bring out the oak :D
Want to find a local supplier of varieties of endmills. The only thing the stores here sell are for handrouters. Oftentimes with bearings :(
A nice singleflute for acrylic would be nice.
Aswell as some downcuts for soft wood!
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
Ok, yes it will certainly not go that low - i have the same spindle and its useless below 8000, this is the issue with HSS - it needs low speeds or it burns up. Try and find a wood router bit - usually carbide tipped etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
Bits for woods are better for this job,I found bits for metal at a very good price on flee market some months agoade in Germany and make some tests on several scrap woods, the results are not as good as the one I have with wood bit.
If you can find a bit at a good price with bearing at the end,take it remove the bearing and trim the insert point flat with a Dremel or a similar tool....
How are folks using these spindles for Aluminum (or are they)? I would think that even with solid carbide 3-flute endmills, 8K would too fast.Quote:
Originally Posted by Davek0974
Wallace
A 2mm single flute carbide tool in alu will be needing 30k+ rpm - these spindles are slow compared to some, even 5-6mm single flute will need 24k rpm.
Single flute work well as they are pretty strong and have a lot of chip-space in the flute.
When you get down to sub 1mm tools you need mega-rpm.
Don't forget these motors are sold as engraving spindles - the tools are sharp pointed and can take any rpm you have.
Yeah, I come from more of a machining background. I was thinking of 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2". But, I bet a good 1/4" coated 3-flute without too long a cutting helix could do 8K. Hopefully, I 'll get to see in next month or so. My 2.2KW spindle should be here in couple weeks.
Thanks,
Wallace
I cut Ali regularly with 8mm 3 flute Uncoated Carbide cutters at 12K-15K and 6mm 15-18K. Very rarely do I drop below 10K with any cutter when cutting ali.Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyblackburn
The 2.2Kw WC spindles don't really have enough torque to cut ali at lower speeds.
Alright, since you are all discussing :D
How about a v-bit 60degrees 2 flute.
What's a starting point in mdf and in oak?
The only suggestions I've found are for shapeoko type machines and I dont think they are all that accurate for me since they refer to dialnumbers on dewalt routers for speedsetting and something like 500mm feed (20 ipm)
I must be able to go faster? And DOC ? Is it even that relevant when engraving? :)
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
5000rpm / 3000mm/min for a 10mm HSS V-bit in hard wood.
7000rpm / 4800mm/min for a 10mm carbide v-bit in hard wood.
Both are 2-flute tools, just estimates as it depends on how deep you go etc with an angled cutter.
DOC is always important, all factors are important - get them too wrong and it goodbye cutter :)
Well.. I expressed myself badly.. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Davek0974
What I ment was that I will engrave with max 5mm (mostly about 3mm) DOC so to my thinking it should work in one pass?
As the spindle is (as you put it) useless under 8000rpm I should be aiming for 5000mm/min? As starting point?
Haven't even tried jogging at those speeds yet :D
Still playing and calibrating but 4000mm/min went fine so I will give it a try next time I get a chance!
Thanks
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
I would try at whatever setting you and your machine are comfortable with to start ;)
V-bit are awkward for feed/speed as the diameter is not fixed so the speed will only ever be correct for one part of the tool. Wood is very forgiving and people do this every day so we know it can work. If using router bits, they sometimes come with recommended settings on the pack and routers are generally high speed so these tools would suit the spindle well.
Its all a matter of breaking tools and learning - I shudder to recall how many new carbide bits i smashed when learning the settings, its a sharp lesson when you put a new £15 tool in and it only cuts 5mm before going in the bin :)
Oooh.. sounds promising. With no local suppliers for new bits I might err on the cautious side ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Davek0974
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
Try to buy some Chinese bits ,a dozen of them in different size there is no way to avoid braking some of them, was In procedure of eliminate some router bits before I sell my previous CNC,lol.
No matter what the calculators says about speed and feed it also has to to with your machine's settings as Davek already said. So better to brake some cheap bits than to see to cry for the expensive ones....
I can't recall how many times I stamp a bit in a wood and Plexi because I forgot to zero Z axis!!! ,:-P
This was my plan. But since Sweden has new import charges Im searching for a eu supplier. Shipped from Germany would be nice and fast :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhofen
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
Been playing some more :D
Look at this video, what might be causing this weird motion?
To fast motion for set kernel speed or just funky g code?
Have cut circles with constant speed so this was a first :)
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hlvP9uEJP8g
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
Post the G-code
The fact that it looks the same each rotation would suggest to me its the G-code itself, it could be made up of arcs not radii and the machine could be in exact-stop mode maybe?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nr1madman
Alright, go easy on me as I have no clue what Im doing in cam :DQuote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
Removed
I don't think so?Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
When I open it it's :
(No. 1: Part 1)
G00 X16.9301 Y32.4734
G00 Z0.5000
G01 Z0.0000 F600 S24000
G01 X17.0971 Y32.2580 Z-0.1363
G01 X17.5547 Y31.6925 Z-0.5000
G01 X17.0971 Y32.2580 Z-0.8637
G01 X16.9301 Y32.4734 Z-1.0000
G01 X17.0971 Y32.2580 F1200
G01 X18.3224 Y30.7439
G01 X18.3753 Y30.6802
G03 X165.3861 Y35.5432 I71.6236 J59.3169
G03 X168.5055 Y40.1417 I-73.9716 J53.5375
G01 X168.5497 Y40.2117
G01 X169.5325 Y41.7967
G01 X170.2938 Y43.0831
G01 X170.5245 Y43.4729
G01 X171.4812 Y45.1695
G01 X171.5210 Y45.2421
And so on..
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
Sorry you are correct for some reason I down loaded it to a Chromebook then had to rename it and it showed up as a warco.ini file upon checking again it must have been in cache. Strange!!
Anyway in looks like it is the Cam giving you the problems with straight line segments
Unless those straight line moves cause an abrupt direction change that creates a corner angle larger than the set corner break angle/corner rounding settings which would force an exact stop, then they shouldn't cause any problems.
Has exact stop mode (G61) been enabled in your controller?
I don't see it in your G-code file, but you could try adding a G64 to the beginning to see if things improve.
And having just run the figures, all is revealed.
Attachment 24019
The short moves are creating two 180deg turns, which will be triggering exact stops.
And as they're part of a depth change, I'm guessing you need to look at your lead in move settings.
Thanks for the help guys!
I'm greatly relieved that my weak camskills are the culprit :)
Guess do it again, do it right is in order!
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
Strange code that what did you create it in.?