You are dead right Jon, but you will find it shrinks when you get old!!! G.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
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You are dead right Jon, but you will find it shrinks when you get old!!! G.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@ba99297, wrong thread my friend, I've done it myself so no worries.
Sorry Eddy!!!
Since using the latest Smooth Stepper plugin for several weeks, months ? I've had no problems with homing the X and slaved A drives, I would say that issue is now sorted.
ESS_v10r2d1d.zip
And it only took them ~5 years to get it right.
Wouldn't go so far to say got it right but it does work.!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ger21
Proposed modifications !
This is to allow joints to be cut in the ends of wood, it provides a 'hole' of roughly 200mm square so the wood can be placed in the X or Y planes.
It's based on using this vice guts; http://www.canadiantools.co.uk/tools...19.html#SID=50, the rest is made from various types of wood (normal for this type of vice :eagerness:)
Made so it's removable with a replaceable insert to put the bed back to normal.
Pictures show how it looks with vice fully open and fully closed.
Attachment 13996Attachment 13997Attachment 13998
I can't have the vice sticking out at the front so the only thing to confirm is whether I can hold a piece of wood in the jaws while tightening the vice.
There's more than enough room above for the spindle and tooling.
Edit:
Would this do instead ?
Attachment 13999
Interesting idea and a good price for that vice if memory serves. I can't help feeling that while I think this will work it's going to be a lot of hassle to set up for the benefit it brings unless you are intending to make a run of identical components. For the joint to be any good you'll need to get the wood bang on parallel with the cutter (in the vertical direction) which will be difficult without a fence which would have to stick down though the table.
I think I'd invest my time in buying a Festool Domino (amazing bit of kit) and if I wanted dovetails a dovetailing jig.
Thanks for feedback.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wobblycogs
The corner innermost to the machine will be made very accurate so that any wood placed up against it will be vertical in both planes. The whole assembly would be securely fastened to the bed using location points to give repeatable positioning.
Domino's too big for my purpose and also too expensive. Need more joints than just dovetails, the vice would allow wood to be angled at 45 deg. for example.
Now commited to current idea having ordered 2 of these; http://www.oxfordweldingsuppliesltd....sey-clamp-gh20
This will be accurate, repeatable, easy to work with, the corner being perpendicular to or at right angles to X,Y,Z planes.
Attachment 14013Attachment 14014
Them bessey clamps are amazing !!! Never want to use any other clamp after using them ...
Thanks, that confirms my thinking.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackrat
You'd be hard pressed to beat Bessey clamps. I've got got some K Body clamps and there's nothing else even close in terms of quality but the price makes your eyes water (although I notice they are doing a sale at the moment). I hope you are going to post a wide selection of pictures of the finished clamping jig. I must admit it crossed my mind to make a similar addition.
The completed project is here; http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/8243-...5028#post65028
Hi Eddy, i'm about to gather the electrics for my build and would like to use your electric schematics design ( or very close to it )if that's o.k with you. i have wired in the past but nothing on this scale. i have a a few queries you might help me with..........1. if the drives are rated for 80 V DC would i get away with an 80 or 70 V DC power supply?(i'm more than likely going to use a 60 V DC like your self. i'm just curious )
2. if i do use a bigger supply will i have to go with a bigger circuit breaker? ( what determines the size of circuit breaker required?)
i'm trying to get to grips with the safety relay because i never had the pleasure to wire one :dejection: but i would like to have one after reading your blog a few times.
You could go higher that 60v but it can rise due to back emf from the stepper motors.Quote:
Originally Posted by PAULRO
The circuit breaker size is related to the current drawn by the system. You need to make sure it's the right type otherwise it will trip every time you power up, type C or DQuote:
2. if i do use a bigger supply will i have to go with a bigger circuit breaker? ( what determines the size of circuit breaker required?)
http://www.neweysonline.co.uk/MCBs/Static.raction
Ebay is the place to look but first you need to decide this;Quote:
i'm trying to get to grips with the safety relay because i never had the pleasure to wire one :dejection: but i would like to have one after reading your blog a few times.
1. operating voltage and AC or DC
2. how many contacts you need and are they NO or NC
3. Safety Category of device. If it's for home use then just about any of the devices will be okay.
Eddy how did you ensure your x rails were parallel and x and y were 90 degrees to each other??Quote:
Originally Posted by EddyCurrent
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeHarris
Hi Joe, if you remember i explained it here #151 in detail how i did it, if its of any help.
But basically in following order gravity and epoxy did the job in one plane for long rails/y/, gantry legs and using square between them, then for gantry rails/x/. Then 1 gantry rail was mounted and using hardstop/precision cut squared piece of sth/ fixed at same distance to gantry legs plane. Then using dial indicator or hard stop next rail was mounted in parallel.
Now the gantry rails were mounted in parallel to each other and square to legs, was time to square long rails. One rail was mounted within millimeter square to frame. It was straightened using straight edge while tightening. So result was first rail straight and on place. Then crossing with the long straight edge and 2 precision squares, checking every 25cm second rail was mounted. That was the most exhausting job as in my case distance was 1800 between them so very difficult to judge square or not. I started scraping the square against straight edge and unsquaring it left and right, so i wanted to get the feeling when in perfect center/square. Once i felt how it feels i used that feeling to square all.
Then gantry was mounted. Then time for Z. First gantry was squared to long rails. Then using clamps clamped on place. Again the long straight edge cross the long rails below in front of gantry. Using squares between it and z rails, ...
All ball screws were mounted 1 by 1 more or less, screw not tight just to hold a little , so when moved to end they will slide on place. Axis moved by hand to one end. ball screw slides on its place, tighten screws, then repeat at other end. That ensured ball screw alignment to be parallel to rails
Thanks Boyan, and yes that description was useful. My issue like yours is a lack of specialist kit. I was asking eddy as he has built in aluminium. I am ok where the aluminium is being mounted in such a way as to make the most of the cast sides as these are nice and flat. But the edges are not and neither are they square. Also the ends of the extrusion I have is not quite flat/square so it makes squaring the x and y to each other hard to achieve. I think I have resigned myself to needing a surface plate and some blue and just scrape the parts square. It's the only way I can think of doing it without a mill... Getting the long axis rails parallel scares the crap out of me!
Joe,
I thought this explained it, http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/6565-...5217#post55217
For the first X rail I used a straight edge to mount it. For the second X rail I used a measurement from the first X rail but in the end I used the Hiwin bearings to line it up.
By moving the gantry back and forth it was easy to find the position of least resistance and the second X rail was tightened down in that position.
Big welcome back Eddy you have been missed:beer:
I'll second that nice to know you haven't popped your clogs . .:beer:Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
Thank you for those kind words.
Since purchasing CamBam I've been stuck on that forum and got back into writing software in the form of plugins.
Welcome back Eddy
Would be good to have your input in the thread 'finished builds picture menu'
Thanks
:)Quote:
Originally Posted by EddyCurrent
I can confirm that.
Just dropped in to see how things are going at mycncuk.