Smiler's Build

[99brownd]

Hello Jeff,

Great Build and an interesting read.

I too have built my own router but I am currently using a standard breakout port, however I have had many problems with it. Therefore I have been looking for a buffered and isolated breakout board and have been recomended the optoport by Roy from DIYCNC. Before I was looking at the bidrectional from CNC4PC but went to DIYCNC.

Basically all I want to know is how well do Roy's cards work? Were you pleased with the optoport before you blew it? Do they work fine with Mach 3. Also what homing switches are you using, still the microswitches? I am wanting to go onto proximity switches but would like to know how well they work with the optoport card. Do you use your switches NC and Active HIgh or NO?

Is it possible to send an image of your electronics?

Thanks,

Dan.

[Smiler]

Hello Jeff,

Great Build and an interesting read.

I too have built my own router but I am currently using a standard breakout port, however I have had many problems with it. Therefore I have been looking for a buffered and isolated breakout board and have been recomended the optoport by Roy from DIYCNC. Before I was looking at the bidrectional from CNC4PC but went to DIYCNC.

Good choice, John S. will vouch for Roy's boards too. A buffered, opto isolated card is a big plus IMO if there is an electrical problem it will keep it within the card and not send it on to your PC. I also use a Smoothstepper because at the time I had to use a laptop, The Optoport worked fine with that too, in fact it was the opto isolation that stopped my Smoothstepper getting fried.

Basically all I want to know is how well do Roy's cards work? Were you pleased with the optoport before you blew it? Do they work fine with Mach 3.

They work as well as any other BOB, I never had a single problem that could be put down to the Optoport.

Also what homing switches are you using, still the microswitches? I am wanting to go onto proximity switches but would like to know how well they work with the optoport card. Do you use your switches NC and Active HIgh or NO?

Is it possible to send an image of your electronics?

Thanks,

Dan.

I use the simple microswitches with the little roller on an arm. Simple, reliable, repeatable. I use them NC connected in series Active High, that way, should a limit/homing wire be cut or a switch fail (happened once), the machine will stop.

I know people use proximity switches and have success with them (Techserv) and if you are using separate limits and homing switches, I'd use them on the limits, after all, if you hit your limits, you aren't going to worry about their accuracy or repeatability as long as they switch and stop the machine. For homing, I'm not too sure about them. I've never found affordable (by DIY'ers) prox switches that had the repeatable accuracy that would be a match for simple microswitches in the vital homing situation where Mach automatically homes the machine. Important when you are using jigs and offsets.

Also, my limit switches double as my homing switches which apart from the cost savings, removes a whole level of wiring complexity and faultfinding when something goes wrong. I just don't think you can beat the microswitch, it's tried tested, reliable, accurate, repeatable, simple and just plain works in all sorts of conditions.

Just my opinion of course, others will disagree and there may be new types on the market I haven't tried. Is there a reason you are leaning toward proximity switches?

I'll get a photo of the electricals posted ASAP for you.

[99brownd]

Good choice, John S. will vouch for Roy's boards too. A buffered, opto isolated card is a big plus IMO if there is an electrical problem it will keep it within the card and not send it on to your PC. I also use a Smoothstepper because at the time I had to use a laptop, The Optoport worked fine with that too, in fact it was the opto isolation that stopped my Smoothstepper getting fried.



They work as well as any other BOB, I never had a single problem that could be put down to the Optoport.

That certainly give me a boost of confidence and enough to persuade me to stay in the UK for buying a board, the optoport it is. I wasnt to keen on buying one from America anyway, everytime I have bought something abroad recently I have been caught out by the import taxes.

I use the simple microswitches with the little roller on an arm. Simple, reliable, repeatable. I use them NC connected in series Active High, that way, should a limit/homing wire be cut or a switch fail (happened once), the machine will stop.

I know people use proximity switches and have success with them (Techserv) and if you are using separate limits and homing switches, I'd use them on the limits, after all, if you hit your limits, you aren't going to worry about their accuracy or repeatability as long as they switch and stop the machine. For homing, I'm not too sure about them. I've never found affordable (by DIY'ers) prox switches that had the repeatable accuracy that would be a match for simple microswitches in the vital homing situation where Mach automatically homes the machine. Important when you are using jigs and offsets.

Also, my limit switches double as my homing switches which apart from the cost savings, removes a whole level of wiring complexity and faultfinding when something goes wrong. I just don't think you can beat the microswitch, it's tried tested, reliable, accurate, repeatable, simple and just plain works in all sorts of conditions.

Just my opinion of course, others will disagree and there may be new types on the market I haven't tried. Is there a reason you are leaning toward proximity switches?

Thanks for this advice, I was just told that you cannot beat the reliability of the proximity switches, but I had also heard from a few others, including you now, that they may not be as accurate as I want them to be.

Them main reason I wanted to use them was for their reliability and supposed accuracy. I will stick with my microswitches for the time being. I may look into magnetic, vane type switches. Our 5axis router at Uni uses these magnetic switches which appear to be very accurate and have certainly been reliable.

I'll get a photo of the electricals posted ASAP for you.

Thanks, just out of interest more than anything else.

[Wobblybootie]

I have found the photos in your gallery, do you have any more (of the build)? ... I am just starting to collect some bits for the same machine you have built, but like you I am not going to use timber.

What material did you use to mount the racks on? also I assume you used Aluminium for the Y axis side plates, did you stick with David Steeles' bearing choices?

Oh and did you ?... Ummm ... did you also? ... I'll shut up now.

[dickieto]

hello again smiler
could you answer a few questions,hope i'm not boring you with these:confused:
in pictures is the shaft under gantry driving pinions under main frame,if so how did you eliminate backlash etc.
i have s/h racks would they be accurate working with alloy? or are ball screws better?
what speed can gantry move on main frame?
i was going to run roller bearings mounted on angle iron on my alloy frame from stair lift(i think)instead of linear rail as i have low budget.what do you think:question:
P.S more pics please as one of the best builds i've seen then i'll stop anoying you:naughty:
Tom