El Beast - Initial design phase, comments and critique welcomed!

**Wal** · 19-05-2018

Originally Posted by driftspin

So ... do you dare use it? First scratch is gonna hurt bad on something as beautiful as this.

That's why you ALWAYS use a hammer to put it together. Pre-empt the pain..!

Wal.

**driftspin** · 19-05-2018

Originally Posted by Wal

That's why you ALWAYS use a hammer to put it together. Pre-empt the pain..!

Wal.

Hahaha best advice of the day ! :-)

Grtz. Bert

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk

**Zeeflyboy** · 19-05-2018

Hah thanks guys. Either going to anodise or powder coat, both should keep it looking nice through some gentle abuse!

Little micro update (been busy barbecuing today!)

3D printed a mount for the homing switch magnet and fitted. To set the activation range I just hooked the switch up to 24v and moved things around until the LED switched off at the right place.

**Zeeflyboy** · 20-05-2018

More work done today... Didn't have any suitable materials for the counter bearing plate so got cracking with some of the other stuff!

First up, 6mm spacer for the ball nut mount to make it reach the front plate:

And then on to a big piece (so big it takes up most of my poor little X6's bed!) - the front mount plate

Externally clamped and all the interior parts done

external clamps removed and finished part:

Fitted along with the previously printed plugs. Other large hole will be for ball nut grease port which I'm currently working out the finer details of.

Full up:

Full down:

**Zeeflyboy** · 24-05-2018

Decided to re-vist my original plans for a belt tensioning system.

I whipped up this design

And then set about making it. The idler I made from alu tubing which I turned down and bored out for the bearing pockets.

I also needed to make the upright piece which the whole assembly rolls around. Turned this from silver steel:

Final part that needed turning was the little rotating piece through which the threaded rod will go... Made a small jig to make sure I drilled it centrally, which could also then be flipped and guide the tap straight through.

I decided to try 3D printing the main parts in the CF composite material I use for functional parts and I must admit I was amazed at just how strong it's come out. I upped the infill percentage and used extra perimeters to beef up the part even more and the result feels like it could survive being run over by a truck... my backup plan was to make the frame parts from alu plate but it won't be needed.

Even more surprising is that I modelled the M6 thread in the bearing tube mating part and it printed fully functional... didn't even need to run a tap through it. That's the smallest thread I've tried printing so far and I'm suitably impressed :)

Final bunch of parts:

And test fitting

Untensioned:

Tensioned (can't fully tension for two reasons - screw thread isn't long enough, and the smaller pulley pulls in towards the bigger one without the top bearing counter plate.... but it gets the gist across):

Pretty chuffed with that little bit of design I have to say... worked out nicely. Still need to make a knurled knob and order some m6 threaded rod to make the proper tensioner adjustment, and I also need to make the little collar that goes on the m5 standoff to help capture the rod end.

**routercnc** · 24-05-2018

It is very OTT but you look like you are having fun so go for it!

How about 3D printing the adjuster knob - put an internal thread in it and secure with a lock/jam nut.

**Zeeflyboy** · 24-05-2018

Originally Posted by routercnc

It is very OTT but you look like you are having fun so go for it!

How about 3D printing the adjuster knob - put an internal thread in it and secure with a lock/jam nut.

A lot of what I do in life could be described as OTT lol...

I've done 3D printed knobs before, in fact the 3D printer is rocking one. Not quite as pretty as a nice knurled alu one though.