Thread: Thor, or should that be Zeus?
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08-06-2017 #1
I have to google the ones I've got because I recovered them from this thing (I have an almost identical one with no surface rust and a mint ballscrew to cannibalise for my Z axis.)
But you cannot go wrong with Cherry or Happ microswitches, high repeat-ability and guaranteed for 10 million clicks which should be good for a few weeks lol. Should cost ~£1 to £1.50 a switch which for cnc is refreshing lol.Last edited by Desertboy; 08-06-2017 at 08:52 AM.
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/10880...60cm-work-area My first CNC build WIP 120cm*80cm
If you didn't buy it from China the company you bought it from did ;)
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08-06-2017 #2
You should be aware that mechanical switches often have a minimum switching current needed for those kind of expected lifespans. If switch contacts don't switch enough current, they oxidise and fail to conduct, as they rely on a certain amount of arcing to keep the contacts conducting.
The same also applies to relay contacts.Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.
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08-06-2017 #3
So many options.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/automa...sort-order=asc
Id probably consider the ones like this (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/limit-switches/0199046/) or similar.
Panasonic, so not cheap crap. NC, Easy to mount, should work for me but I dont really want to buy 6 if I can avoid it.
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08-06-2017 #4
You're paying for the IP rating mostly if you're not running liquid coolant I would be happy with Cherry or Happ microswitches simply because arcades have used them since the 80's pretty much unchanged design and they have proven themselves to be ultra reliable over a long time and arcade machines were abused! They are certainly not suitable if your cutting under running liquid but they are so cheap 6 would cost the same as 1 panasonic and although the panasonic might be better the happ's or cherry's have certainly had a lot lot more real world testing as almost every arcade machine, including gamblers in the 80's, 90's, 00's and even today had/have either happ or cherry switches
Last edited by Desertboy; 08-06-2017 at 10:41 AM.
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/10880...60cm-work-area My first CNC build WIP 120cm*80cm
If you didn't buy it from China the company you bought it from did ;)
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08-06-2017 #5
True. At the moment I'm not sure if Ill be using coolants. Ive been thinking to get some form of metal / material bellows system in place, id be more comfortable to have them IP Rated, just in case. Suppose in the overall costs of the machine, paying £50 for switches is not really an issue.
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08-06-2017 #6
Ok, fundamental question.
Is it normal or acceptable to use the same switch (mechanical or proxy) for both home and limit? I dont understand how the machine would know if it was simply sent home or it actually needs to stop as its a limit. Is there logic that says 'ref all' and it goes home but if its hits the home limit during any other movement (manual or programmed) that the machine will then stop?
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08-06-2017 #7
I know how it works on grbl (Arduino cnc solution) when it's doing a home it ignores the limit so doesn't go into shutdown mode. If it's not homing then it treats it as a limit switch and shuts everything down until reset G code is sent.
I'm sure Mach 3 treats it the same way (I think LinuxCNC does)
If I were you though I would fit another set of limit switch further back that trigger an E stop as well as extra protection! I can maybe help you source high quality IP64 rated microswitches I have a friend who services and repairs 4 poster lifting ramps for steam cleaning bays I'll give him a bell see how much he would charge for new ones if they're cheap enough I'll use them lol.Last edited by Desertboy; 08-06-2017 at 11:12 AM.
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/10880...60cm-work-area My first CNC build WIP 120cm*80cm
If you didn't buy it from China the company you bought it from did ;)
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08-06-2017 #8
Chaz I think you are getting bogged down with all this. When you home the machine the software knows that you are homing and therefore treats the switches as (homes) when the machine has homed the software then treats the switches as limits.
In your case you will have plenty on inputs so why not keep them separate. (it is also OK to use just one switch for home and one end limit)Last edited by Clive S; 08-06-2017 at 12:14 PM.
..Clive
The more you know, The better you know, How little you know
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08-06-2017 #9
I agree with Clive in his post above (Hi Clive !)
However my personal preference on big powerful machines is to have the home switches inside the boundries set by the limit switches, and have the limit switches trigger powering off of the drives. Also to have the limit switches within the boundries of mechanical stops that limit travel before ball screws over travel.
With a big servo driven machine like my CNC Beaver Partsmaster Mill, or the Traub lathe I rebuilt last year (now sold), the servo drives are a few killowatts, so if they run away damage WILL be done without limits.
However that said, my CNC Plasma Table is set up sharing home and limit switches driven by Mach3 - it's how the chap who originally built it made it, and it wasn't easily altered when I re-built it. But the drives are steppers and only Nema 46's so in the worst case if it runs away not much breaks !
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08-06-2017 #10
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