Router Modifications to Allow Cutting of Woodworking Joints

[JAZZCNC]

My thoughts were that I would find it easier to clamp and align my workpieces horizontally to a raised work surface on the bed than vertically. This would also allow me to machine joints in the ends of long workpieces (2 m in length for beds for example). Have you ever seen a spindle like this and am I mad to consider it?

Not Mad but not as easy has you think to do and keep a ridgid and accurate machine. The link eddy posted is to a 5 axis machine that is both expensive and complex to build, let alone generate G-code. Certainly not something I would advise any one new to CNC to dream about taking on for a first machine.!

The problem with rotating spindles is the accurecy needed in the rotation device to keep the spindle so it's perfectly aligned in 2 planes. Sounds easy to just flip the spindle horizontal then back again.! But in practise there's quite a lot of time invested in setting up your spindle so it cuts true in both X & Y planes and gives a nice flat bottom cut parallel to the bed surface.
So any spinning device will need to be very well engineered so it's repeatable if want any decent accuracy. Then you have the fact you'll need to spin it 90deg in 2 planes to be of any use which adds to the complexity.!!

While I see why or the appeal of what you want then NO it's certainly not something you want to be taking on for a first machine believe me.! . . . The machine design Eddy used is a good tried tested design with one exception in that it he should have listened to his uncle Jazz and made the top rails longer. . . (Soz eddy couldn't resist) and used the end of the bed for clamping.!

[Allan]

Thanks Eddy and uncle Jazz. I really like the system you built into the base of your machine Eddy - thanks for sharing it. The idea I had for rotating the spindle is as uncle Jazz describes. I'll put together a drawing and post it on a new thread where hopefully some members will throw some mud at it. I was thinking of using strong and accurate bearings in a housing like the fixed end of a ball screw. Thanks again for your inspiration and showing what you've done. I'll have a look at Eddy's build log.

[EddyCurrent]

The machine design Eddy used is a good tried tested design with one exception in that it he should have listened to his uncle Jazz and made the top rails longer. . . (Soz eddy couldn't resist) and used the end of the bed for clamping.!

You won't be laughing when I put a rotary table in the same hole
Allan, with regard to your idea, I would sort out how the software is going to work first.

[JAZZCNC]

You won't be laughing when I put a rotary table in the same hole
Allan, with regard to your idea, I would sort out how the software is going to work first.

Not laughing at you mate think you have done a marvelous job and credit to you for an old duffer. . .Lol
By the way that same Rotary table on the end is just as functional if not more because you have a lathe as well as 4th axis if done right.!

[EddyCurrent]

Not laughing at you mate think you have done a marvelous job and credit to you for an old duffer. . .Lol

I know you're not laughing, get some London Porter down yer gob, from one old duffer to another

[EddyCurrent]

I've been getting back into some programming after a very long time, I forgot how much fun it was so haven't been in the shed for a week.
Anyway I've written a script for CamBam for cutting Finger Joints or Comb Joints and hopefully there will be more to come.
I've attached it here but any future updates need to be downloaded from the CamBam forum; http://www.cambam.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=4269.0
Just look for this title; Woodworking Joints - Finger Joints Script

The zip file should be extracted to your CamBam scripts folder where it will create a sub folder with the form images in it.

[EddyCurrent]

Second attempt, very pleased, this was the 'Antenna' preset pattern across a 58 mm width, 10mm thickness, cutter size 3 mm diameter. cutting time 5 minutes total.

[longy]

Looking good Eddy nice work, a tip to avoid any break out on the back edges. Like at the top edge on the right hand bit of timber shown in the pic, use a bit of scrap even MDF to support the timber edge that is being cut. Another thing is to leave the finger slightly longer then sand down flush after gluing up.

Try doing something like a dovetail + finger joints, I would be interested to see how that comes out.
Mike :)

[GEOFFREY]

Looks good Eddy. G.