Printable View
OK You might have been better with 8 wire motors wired in parallel as you would get more speed out of them I take it these are for a router. Although having said that I have no experience with the motors and drive you have.
I have 4 motors on my router running from a 500Va tx at about 70V with no problems. I doubt they would pull more than 8-9 A
Good luck with the build.
Woohoo! That is one stout build and very clean work, particularly for not having a mill. Seriously, great stuff. I missed the type of linear rails you're using and do you like them? Also, do you have a supplier. I'm in the USA.
Thanks
Thanks for the compliment about the work I've done and it maybe a bit of overkill but better stout than all flimsy. The rails I'm using are Hiwin 20mm ones together with narrow carriages on the Z axis and the wide ones on both the Y and X axes. I got them custom sized from a supplier here in the UK. If you want them you could try Fred at BST Automation on AliExpress. He sells Hiwin stuff and is a great supplier as I got a set of custom ballscrews from him and had no problems at all with them.Quote:
Originally Posted by wiremonkey
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
MILLING WITH A ROUTER!? Impressive. Nice work!
Hi everyone, I've managed to get a bit more done on the router build, and have finished the 4 end plates which connect the 2 X axis aluminium extrusions, the corner legs and support the X axis ballscrews. I had to slightly alter the design as the ball screw on the fixed bearing end protruded through the end plate a bit more than anticipated. I had to make a simple rectangular cutout for the motor and a separate plate for the motor adjustment to tension the belt. To make the rectangular cutout I made a series of holes to get rid of most of the material and then used a end mill in the router and a template to neaten it up.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ccece96d19.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...db6bd6082a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f3dc763afb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f3ee8f3b69.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0e1da148a8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...648735f0bd.jpg
Nice work!
The second part of the update is the making of the motor mounting plates which were done in a similar way to the end plates. The 4 bolt slots were first drilled and then tidied up using the router and a end mill. This time I didn't use a template, just a side fence and 2 stops at the front and back. The centre slot was then made bigger then necessary to allow for larger pulleys to be used and because the motor face was not flat and had a raised centre part.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9ab54b06aa.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0eec66f2ea.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...945c187a3b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cb5d221ce3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fcf77cd731.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...492b2ed4c6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...884b29ce33.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4b673e8a5f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...652a51e262.jpg
Wonderful work. Anyone looking to build their first CNC machine without access to a mill should bookmark this thread as a great example of bootstrapping your way in.
Hi routercnc, thanks for the compliment, I've enjoyed following your MK4 build and watching the videos you have made. Believe it or not I haven't done much metalwork before, so this has been a voyage of discovery as well. I think some of my success has been in getting some proper layout tools such as the height gauge and optical punch off eBay and learning the basics of Fusion 360 which really helps visualise the parts and the design as a whole.Quote:
Originally Posted by routercnc
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi everyone, I've made a bit more progress with the build and have built the unregulated stepper PSU. I managed to get a cheap 2*45VAC toroidal transformer which is probably well over specification, but it was a good deal. It will easily power the 4 steppers and a 5th when I add a rotary axis at a later date. I decided to include a Sedlbauer inrush current limiter because of the toroid size, and spent a bit more money on 105 degree centigrade rated capacitors. I have used the aluminium base plate as a heatsink for the bridge regulator and used a heatsink thermal compound to get good heat transfer. I was pretty confident that I had wired the PSU correctly but decided to play it safe and power it up using a variac to gradually increase the mains voltage from zero up to 240VAC. It all went well and nothing went up in a cloud of smoke.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...860bd0f43d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...caf3972619.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a16244fad3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c154e5fa99.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...585b72724b.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm new to the forum. I very much like the look of this design and would like to have a crack at building it. What is the protocol for asking for plans or preferably CAD files ?
It looks like you have been a member for 9-10 years. It is best to start your own thread and ask the questions there.Quote:
Originally Posted by cweeks
Hi everyone, I've got a couple of small updates on the build. Firstly I have made a couple of mounts for the inductive limit sensors on the x axis. I was originally going to mount them under the gantry carriage plate between the ballscrew and the carriages, but I realised that there was no way I could adjust them in that position so I had to move them to the outer edge of the plate. On the top of the plate I fastened a 4 way connector to take the 2 signals back across the gantry and bring power to them via a 4 way CY cable.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5e7c63d608.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...aad6fa3212.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b7b686fbae.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Had you thought about mounting them so that they can slide past the target rather than into it? You can also get away with one limit sensor and a fixed target at each end.Quote:
Firstly I have made a couple of mounts for the inductive limit sensors on the x axis.
Hi Clive, I'm probably missing something very simple, but I just can't visualise how you could only use one sensor to limit travel at either end of the x axis. I didn't mention this explicitly but I'm not having separate limit and home sensors, so I assume that's not possible with one sensor?Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ok imagine if you rotate the sensor by 90' and put a target at each end so that the sensor slide over it to trigger.Quote:
Originally Posted by NFryer
the target would not be a the complete end but a small distance from it to enable the gantry to travel to the end before it trips. This is done at both ends.
I believe Mach can use the sensor to home (then offset the home say 1mm) once homed Mach would then set it to be a limit switch. This way you would only need three sensors with three inputs. (not sure if you have a slaved axis ie two motors)
If you have two motors to slave you would need two home switches one for each side.
Hi Clive, once you mentioned rotating the sensor by 90' I understood what you meant, it'a a nice simple way of using one sensor. Unfortunately I've already done the X axis sensors, so can't change them, but it's something to remember if I change the design once built or build another machine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've made a start on building the main frame for the router, and have made a couple of braces to fit between the middle pair of legs. A while back I built an angle cutting sled for my circular saw table which I used to cut the angles on the end of the aluminium extrusions. I also made a couple of simple plates to bolt the braces to the legs.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...61f50e1bc3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c0eeedd316.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...79d247fdff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5db050d29c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...48f37a4b75.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Very sexy! :D
Keep up the awesome work!
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
Nice,like a tank!
Following on from the previous post I've made 4 similar braces for the sides of the router frame and some simple plates to bolt them in. All of the main frame is now just about complete and can be bolted together in the garage in its final position.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2f8ad14358.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...25ce3bba0c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...676b94604e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...17c90617ee.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4e4ea3e86a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2e9bd377d3.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Tank style :D
Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk
Looking good !Quote:
Originally Posted by NFryer
Grtz Bert.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk
Hi everyone, I've not really had much spare time to get on with the build, but I have started to look into the control panel build, and I could do with a bit of advice. For the stepper e-stop circuit is it safer to kill the power supply and disable the drivers or would it be just as good to merely disable the drivers and leave the power supply on. I intend to use an ABB inverter with an e-stop input and the STO function which disables the output of the inverter but still leaves it powered on, which is a bit like disabling the stepper drives, but leaving them still powered on. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Leave the PSU on, no need to kill power.Quote:
Originally Posted by NFryer
I use a Pilz safety relay which is tripped by e-stop and by fault signals from stepper drivers (particularly if one of the dual X drive steppers stalls so the machine doesn't tear itself apart). The relay was a cheap "new but obsolete" one that cost £25 from eBay, which is the main reason I used one. However, it has multiple contact sets so I switch the stepper enable signal and the CSMIO motion controller e-stop signal (both of which should stop stepper movement almost instantaneously) and the stepper motor power supply mains input (which would stop steppers but not quite so immediately). One reason to switch the power is not so much for safety (although it was easy to do anyway) but to enable me to reset the stepper drivers in case one of them does go into fault condition. If a motor stalls (a rare event), I can reset by hitting e-stop and then resetting the machine. You need to consider how you would reset stepper drivers if they are configured to "fault" on error. Just a thought.
Hi Neale, thanks for the great reply. What you've described is roughly what I had in mind. I got a used Schmersal safety relay, and intend to use the outputs to stop the drivers and inverter, and signal the CSMIO controller. What I had missed was the fact that you needed to kill the power to the drivers to reset them after a fault or stall. I might just add a button to switch the driver contactor on and off to reset the drives and then reset the safety relay.Quote:
Originally Posted by Neale
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi Nick
The answer is for a DIY machine that you are the only user then it’s what you feel happy with.
My mk1 just used the estop pin on the breakout board and relied on that to stop sending stepper signals to the drivers and tell Mach3 to stop sending signals to the breakout board.
Had no issues for years with that setup.
For mk2 or 3 (can’t remember!) I made a proper control box with a safer estop circuit and better overall functionality. I have a master relay (not a proper Pilz style but the same principle) that has multiple outputs and one of these drops power to the contactor which controls the linear psu. Other outputs drop the self latch and drop power to the spindle relay which controls the VFD run/stop logic signal and drops the estop pin connection on the breakout board so Mach 3 knows to stop. My drives don’t have stall detect etc so my only reason was a bit more piece of mind. I’m reusing most of this for the current mk4 with the main difference being that axis limit trips are going to be soft stop limit events and not part of the hard estop circuit. I think this last part on limit trips is Dean’s approach and having tried it out on one axis I agree with him.
I think that I've got the control cabinet wiring sorted out. I'm using a Schmersal safety relay which can be triggered by the main E-Stop button, the stepper driver fault output, the inverter fault output and the E-Stop button on the MPG hand controller that I've got. Once triggered the signal is sent to the CSMIO controller, the stepper drivers are disabled and the inverter stops the spindle using the E-Stop ramp. A off time delay relay is used to allow the inverter to stop the spindle and then enable the STO function which disables the output of the inverter. To reset the stepper drivers I've included a switch in the PSU contactor coil circuit. A switch is used to also enable the inverter STO function when changing spindle bits to make sure there is no chance of the spindle starting. I intend to mount the control cabinet on the machine frame using some Paulstra anti vibration mounts. Also on the machine I will include a small control panel, with start, stop, pause, home and auto tool measurement buttons, along with green, red and yellow LED's for the start,stop and pause buttons.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1267263f74.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5bd3147cde.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...365a3e93c1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7e9f6f6b46.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fa6a118bc3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...03dfc4c9c7.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
First let me congratulate on an amazing build. Its amazing what many do with aluminium, basic hand tools and a little patience. I started designing a build (was all steel) but after spending a few hours with Clive its back to the drawing board for some re-jigging about. I thought I would need a mill to turn out the stuff many have done, but you have shown that's not the case, well done.
I was trying to work out some measurements from your design - is the gantry 90 x 45 heavy - and did you do an L shape pattern ? I think that's what quite a few have done - Heavy-Aluminium-Profile
I see you have put aluminium on the top of the x and y axis - is that 20mm cast aluminium?
Many thanks - and sorry for all the questions - I am just learning.
Mike
Hello Freyer
i am new here and i saw your design and my question is about the x axle moving by two ball bearing and one motor joined together.
does this work ?
grt Frank
Hi Frank, you can use a single motor and a long belt to connect the two x axis ballscrews together, check out the build log of Joe Harris, he did it that way. I decided on using two separate motors to drive the x axis ballscrews. Either way works.Quote:
Originally Posted by fgfreek32
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
thanks for the reply,will look at the log
grt frank
Hi everyone, I've got a couple of updates on my router build. The main frame is completely finished, with the addition of an extra extrusion on the bottom to make a control box mount. I've just got to have a move around on the garage to get it into its final resting place. For the control box mount I've also made a couple of simple plates which bolt to the 2 extrusions and have an anti vibration mount on them. To finish this off I just have to make a couple of top mounts. I've also made a couple of mounts to fasten the x axis drag chain channel to the main frame.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...152646c965.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b40fbaea07.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...778f612e93.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bb669eab81.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7322062751.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c9749a0f36.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just a little follow up to my last post, I've fastened a couple of aluminium pieces to the underside of the control box and I have made a couple of top mounts for it as well.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5745e26e95.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4190a59e44.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...974c742b8d.jpg
I've also made a good start on the control panel which goes in the control box, most of the power wiring is complete. I think this is turning into a small project all of its own.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...109b334c4d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b92cc962d5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4728060b68.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looking great Nick 👍Quote:
Originally Posted by NFryer
I seem to remember my control box taking much longer than expected too !
A massive well done on the build! I was on the point of giving up on my build due to lack of tools to finish the job properly, but this thread has given me new inspiration! Can't wait to see videos of yours running! Keep up the good work!