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I use these cases and they come with back plate.

Looks like a standard reference design to me :-)

I really need to tidy my lathe conversion up before I post any pics

Time to set up the soft limits before bolting that end-stop in place.

That photograph looks like a blatant rip-off of the insides of my control box!

+ one

You may wish to revise the end-on approach, the first time you jog into and crush a switch. Don't ask me how I know. They work just as well when the profile just glides in from the side.

:biggrin:...

It's tempting to try to use the smallest enclosure you can, to make for a neat system. But when it comes to connecting up all the external connections, life gets very difficult if you haven't got...

It is not hard to drill and tap the holes in the back plate. The cutouts in the gland plate i usually machine....but i guess it depends on your router.

+1 for ali backing plate..... not just easier to drill (especially "emergency" holes! ) but can be useful for heatsinking drivers, rectifiers and braking resistors etc. I successfully cut 60/75mm...

Core drill?, step drill for sure, or metal punches (bought second-hand sets for IEC and XLR plugs/sockets)

Looks to me as if there is a backplate as part of the package - the "2mm galvanised steel mounting panel" item. Does make it easier to get everything fixed before bolting into the cabinet.

Have...

I'd go along with the "it's never big enough" idea. Do a dummy layout of the bits going in there, work out what you need to house them, then go a size or two bigger. Otherwise, wiring the thing is...

All good suggestions, I've just thrown one control box out that was home-made/formed from sheet steel - to the limits of my bender (90mm). That was not deep enough when I replaced my baby drivers...

I use 500 x 600 x 200. There are 5 x DM860's and a VFD plus the other stuff :)

I used the largest old PC case I had lying around in the shed. But then I'm an incorrigible cheapskate!

I'd always go as big as practical!

Best option is to find sizes of all the key parts you'd like to use, then do a quick mock-up.
My tip would be to leave plenty room around components to run some...

600x600x200 0r 250 should be more than enough

Yes that's correct.

You are using NPN type switch so what you actually need to do is Take the Black signal wire to the (-) input and run 24v+ to the (+) input.
The port in Mach3 is 10 and select the input number, not...

I can't comment on the switch wire colours without a diagram in front of me, but you do need to take a wire from the -ve pin for your chosen input to the common negative - on the IP/M both sides of...

Actually, taking each home switch into separate inputs on the CSMIO isn't a big issue as it has plenty of inputs available. It also means that you can set Mach3 to home more than one axis at a time,...

No that would be Active Low.
Because the type is N/C Mach sees the signal all the time(High) and when signal disappears (low) the pin goes active. So it's (Active Low)
If it was N/O type it would...

If your taking this route using separate mechanical Limits to homes then Go with NC for the Limits and wire in series using just 1 input like as been suggested.
For the Homes, it doesn't really...

The danger with normally open switches is that a bad connection doesn't show up until your machine crashes straight through them. They must be connected in parallel. Wiring faults with normally...

You can use the same approach with simple mechanical switches but they tend to slide over a ramped trigger plate to prevent damage to switch. Or you can buy Lever type mechanical switches with end...