HME Technology router NEE AMC-E controller WinAMC software

[JAZZCNC]

A few beers in me now, but I can only count eight wires from each motor. Would that still make the Heiz controller dodgy?

Gavin if you wanted to just run the machine and check motors etc then the Heiz controller would probably work ok just don't push the motors to hard. There's only 0.2a difference and it's very unlikely you'll come near that just jogging it around. Just make sure the Heiz is set for parallel wired motors.

[Jonathan]

just don't push the motors to hard. There's only 0.2a difference and it's very unlikely you'll come near that just jogging it around.

How 'hard' you run the motors will make little difference as they'll actually draw the most current when stationary, unless the driver reduces the current there in which case it'll be at very low speed.

Either way, if it gets hot switch it off. Simples...

[artmin]

Thanks guys :tup:

I wasn't sure where you were getting the 2.4A/phase from but I see it now. I think the Heiz controller is 500 Euro + delivery & I see on the website they state the phase current as up to 2.1A. Maybe I'd be better spending the money in a different way.

I'll pull the machine out in the garage to get some good light & take a video of the controllers. I'll also contact ITT/Burny again & ask them to send me the spec. sheets for the driver board, as surely that has to be standard. Initially they told me that they wouldn't be of use to me as HME wrote their own software, but I now understand that must be for the HPGL board. I'm looking forward to ripping that one out :naughty:

If mating breakout to the driver was going to be difficult, would I be better with something like this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CNC-Router...item1c222cd4bf

or this?

http://www.routoutcnc.com/lpkits.html

[Jonathan]

The first link, M542 drivers, is ideal. Not sure if it's the cheapest - just look for 3 drivers with 542 in the part number and a suitable breakout board and you'll be fine.

The second link is pretty poor as the driver only goes up to 30V and the motor torque (and therefore feedrate) is proportional to the applied voltage. Plus you'd be running very close to the maximum current for those drivers.

Again if you can check the rectified voltage from the transformer with a multimeter and it's less than 50V, but significantly less then you can keep it as long as it can deliver enough power. Could you measure the diameter and height of the transformer so we can estimate the output current?

[artmin]

I pulled the transformer out of the panel hoping to find some specs. printed on it, but unfortunately nothing.

It turns out to be Lintron & from there website I have the following specs: 160VA with an OD of 115 & height of 45. Weight 2Kg

The AMC driver board has +37VD printed on it beside a fuse along with +5VD in other places, so I'd guess a tapped voltage of +37V. Current I don't know.

I'm starting to think that as I'm not 100% sure what I'm doing (more like 50/50 at the mo. :lol:) it might be best for time versus cost, to go for a one box solution.

Trawling through other parts of the forum I see Roy at DIYCNC has a good name. What about this as a 1 box solution?
http://www.diycnc.co.uk/html/cnc_systems.html The 3 axis System without motors Code SYS43CFK £252. I see the supply voltage is 27V though when the steppers will take up to 90V :confused:.

I hadn't clicked that the supply voltage was proportional to motor speed & torque. Holding torque would be more important to me than travel speed. I aim to be cutting hardwoods, MDF & plastics in this machine but I don't know what kind of torque I need. The spindle power is usually my limiting factor as I will probably install a Kress 1050 unless someone can suggest an alternative. The Kress can burn through brushes rightly with a 6mm cutter :twisted:. With the Kress speed control for me would be unimportant as I normally set it manually at the start of each process. I just need an output that I can use to switch the spindle.

[Jonathan]

Since the existing driver uses 37 volts (odd number) you don't want to go below that as then you wouldn't be able to run the machine at the original feedrates. I'd want to use a higher voltage to get better acceleration, particularly as those are Nema 34 motors which will be slow on that voltage.

If you're after a '1-box' solution I could make one for a similar price to the one from DIYCNC, except with the 4.2A, 50V drivers and just under 50V power supply (or the 70V drivers). Plus including whatever else you need, spindle control etc. PM me if your interested.

Why do you say holding torque would be more important than feedrate? The forces on the cutter / machine are tiny when it's not moving! Alternatives to the Kress are the 1.5kW and 2.2kW water cooled spindles on eBay. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for in my opinion ... see recent discussion in other threads.

[artmin]

Why do you say holding torque would be more important than feedrate? The forces on the cutter / machine are tiny when it's not moving!

Just my ignorance! I assumed that when stationary, the motors would be maxxed out to prevent any movement .



Thanks for that link 2e0poz, but he hasn't had a good start on the 'bay. Mind you, ebay can treat sellers like dirt


I'll send you a PM Jonathan

[Jonathan]

1,3) As 2e0poz said, but probably 2.4A as bipolar parallel current is 1.4 times unipolar current.
2) No, floating is fine.
4) Do not put fuses between the PSU and the stepper drivers as a break in connection between them could damage the driver. They have internal protection, so just put a fuse on the mains input.

[artmin]

Thanks guys. Just laying the hardware out at the moment. Hope to get it wired over the next few days :)