Ready Steady Eddy

[EddyCurrent]

I found that a warm air gun flashed across the surface got rid of the bubbles. As a matter of interest the Wests System was still like thick water 6 or 7 hors after the pour before its started the cure. With no sticky stuff on the top when cured. Also the mixing was just done with a flat bit on thin ply and gently stirred it round. ..Clive

You mentioned this before so I tried a hair drier (it's the wife's, no use to me now) on it's lowest speed but it was moving the epoxy round like the seas at Cape Horn.
Yes I think this epoxy was still flexible after 6 to 7 hours but maybe just beyond any self leveling properties on the scale required.
It's interesting you confirm the slow mixing method.

[Clive S]

You mentioned this before so I tried a hair drier (it's the wife's, no use to me now) on it's lowest speed but it was moving the epoxy round like the seas at Cape Horn.
Yes I think this epoxy was still flexible after 6 to 7 hours but maybe just beyond any self leveling properties on the scale required.
It's interesting you confirm the slow mixing method.

I meant to say hot air gun straight after the pour so the waves won't matter. I was told by the people at Wests a good way would be to mix in a container with a small hole at the bottom on the side (say 7mm) with some tape over it, when mixed remove the tape and let the epoxy flow out of the hole into your trough that way you don't get the bubbles. I never tried though. ..Clive

[EddyCurrent]

I meant to say hot air gun straight after the pour so the waves won't matter. I was told by the people at Wests a good way would be to mix in a container with a small hole at the bottom on the side (say 7mm) with some tape over it, when mixed remove the tape and let the epoxy flow out of the hole into your trough that way you don't get the bubbles. I never tried though. ..Clive

That was likely okay with your moat design but with the draught excluder there's not much height before the banks are breached. That sounds like a great idea for pouring.

Also I'd like to thank everyone for their input because I feel I've learned a hell of a lot more about this epoxy idea these last few days.

[Lee Roberts]

Also I'd like to thank everyone for their input because I feel I've learned a hell of a lot more about this epoxy idea these last few days.

Me too, thanks everyone !

[njhussey]

I meant to say hot air gun straight after the pour so the waves won't matter. I was told by the people at Wests a good way would be to mix in a container with a small hole at the bottom on the side (say 7mm) with some tape over it, when mixed remove the tape and let the epoxy flow out of the hole into your trough that way you don't get the bubbles. I never tried though. ..Clive

One slight problem I can see with playing a heat gun over the epoxy is that the moat is foam...heat and foam aren't the best of friends in my experience! Only takes for the heat to be on a fraction of a second too long and you've a leak in your moat!

I think I'm going to do a mix of ideas for getting the bubbles out. Firstly I'll mix it slowly in one container and hopefully not induce too many bubbles. Then I'll transfer it to a second pot to ensure its all mixed and no pockets of just resin. This pot will have a hole in the side to aid pouring. I might even pinch a bit of 100 mesh SS filter wire from the works to strain it through. This should trap all the bubbles on the way through the mesh.

Some cracking ideas in this thread...