VFD Has defantly blown up now!

[Doddy]

soldering it sounds like a good move I will be sure to do that, did you take the 4 pins out and then modify it so the wires went through the top? along with the earth?

I genuinely interested and a little confused... how was the original connector made-off last time, if not soldered?

Okay, the connector pictured is a little different to the usual chinese jobs that have solder bucket terminals.

Where I'm coming from is that soldering isn't regarded as a particularly vibration-tolerant electrical termination method (crimping is widely regarded as superior). Unless the OP had, perhaps, screw-terminals?

[Clive S]

I genuinely interested and a little confused... how was the original connector made-off last time, if not soldered?

Okay, the connector pictured is a little different to the usual chinese jobs that have solder bucket terminals.

Where I'm coming from is that soldering isn't regarded as a particularly vibration-tolerant electrical termination method (crimping is widely regarded as superior). Unless the OP had, perhaps, screw-terminals?

Doddy If you are looking at the green connector then I think that is just a 3D printed cover to cover the hole up in the top of the spindle. The original plug and socket have been discarded and the cy cable soldered directly on to the spindle wires.

My personal opinion is that I would not do this but keep the original plug and socket BUT securely fix the cable to the spindle plate so as there can be no movement in the plug and socket as this is a source of problems with vfd's letting magic smoke out.

[Doddy]

Doddy If you are looking at the green connector then I think that is just a 3D printed cover to cover the hole up in the top of the spindle. The original plug and socket have been discarded and the cy cable soldered directly on to the spindle wires.

My personal opinion is that I would not do this but keep the original plug and socket BUT securely fix the cable to the spindle plate so as there can be no movement in the plug and socket as this is a source of problems with vfd's letting magic smoke out.

I was looking at the picture on page 1, but now having seen your reply I've noticed the second image. Not keen - I'd be concerned that such thin-walled printed structure certainly will be porous and provide little to no mechanical relief. I'd agree with Clive's suggestion - get some saddle clips (or similar rigid mount) on the plate and tie-wrap the cable-form to these. It works on fast-jets, should be fine on a milling machine.

[charlieuk]

I was looking at the picture on page 1, but now having seen your reply I've noticed the second image. Not keen - I'd be concerned that such thin-walled printed structure certainly will be porous and provide little to no mechanical relief. I'd agree with Clive's suggestion - get some saddle clips (or similar rigid mount) on the plate and tie-wrap the cable-form to these. It works on fast-jets, should be fine on a milling machine.

I am far less concerned about the printed part failing now than the plug they come with. I can apply all the force I want with my hands to the spare I printed and could not any signs of movement or cracking between the print layers, its got a 3mm wall that tapers up and solid infill, the layers are extremely well fused together, I have been so impressed with the strength of parts that come of my prusa! The only thing that may destroy it would be a few hefty blows from a hammer. Now I have the printer I will also re do the cable support that was bolted to the main frame above the old plug. The wire will never move in the blue tubing ( it was a sod to get on) and that is permanently fixed to the printed part so should never move and have taken any chance of stress going onto the motor wires inside.

The plug witch now is obvious was the failure point on the system and considering the plug was still locked down when I removed it after it failing shows it is a weak point and when you look at them the fitment and would assume the contact of the pins to be fairly poor and im not going to risk it again, In the past I have noticed the locking collar has managed to loosen its self over time although that wasn't the case when it blew and was the first thing I checked. remove the fault and remove the problem.

[magicniner]

3mm wall that tapers up and solid infill, the layers are extremely well fused together, I have been so impressed with the strength of parts that come of my prusa! .

What material?

[charlieuk]

Just pla I have done stacks of stuf with it now and have been so impressed. I have stronger filaments but not yet found the limits of pla easpesialy when it comes to small things like this I would be very sure the cable would give way before the printed part ever gets close. If you have that sort of load going on the cable you have something very wrong!

[magicniner]

That'll be fun if the motor gets warm, within spec, just fairly warm for a motor ;-)

Check out the glass transition temperature of PLA, that's why it's not suitable for stuff on your car dash ;-)