where to start?

[JAZZCNC]

would he be able to use a chain in stead of a belt jazz

James

Yep every thing jonathan said, plus there's nothing to be gained over R&P in performance or cost, infact it would cost more and perform less. It can't even compete with Belts on any front.
To be off any use you need good quality chain and sprockets which arnt cheap. Cheap chain stretchs like crazy untill settled down, It needs dry lubing and crap gets into the links plus it's noisy as hell.! (Mind R&P aint exactly quite.!)

Basicly IMO it's not cost affective enough to give good performance without using expensive chain & sprockets so then whats the point.? . . . . . Unless your names Renthal and you own a chain factory. . . . there's far better options.

Suppose it's further up the horse scale than threaded bar thou.! . . . but not much. .:rofl:

Edit: That was a joke Chain users and send all complaint's to hell coz I don't give a stuff. .:twisted:

[Jonathan]

Suppose it's further up the horse scale than threaded bar thou.! . . . but not much. .:rofl:

and two below ACME screws....

[JAZZCNC]

and two below ACME screws....

Oh be carefull Jon your on sacred ground with the Acme brigade.! . . . They'll be after your Balls (screws).:naughty:

[trounce]

Sorry JAZZ mean't to post that that link to the belt driven machine and totally forgot..



I think I've made my mind up now to go with R&P instead of the belt. I need to start with something that seems a little more idiot proof and from what I've seen it seems the easiest for me to be able to achieve.

I bought myself the box section today because If I don't start spending I know I'll keep putting this build off and never get it started.
I bought 15m of 60 x 60 x 3 box and 12m of 60 x 30 x 3 for a total of £180 and had the shop cut it into smaller lengths to fit into my van.
This will just be for the bed section and not the legs etc as I'm aiming to put some more pennies away to be able afford alluminium profile for the bottom section or at least some other much lighter alternative that can be unbolted and taken apart.

I think I'm also gonna have to find a way to make the bed come apart aswell or at least some of the supports because If I ever have to move it all I'll need a crane :rofl:

I think with the bed I'm going to go with 9 x 5 to be on the safe side and as these linear bearings come in at 2750mm I may aswell stick to the same length.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2507409735...84.m1438.l2649

Again thanks so much for all the replys, I hate asking so many questions but this is so alien to me and quite bamboozling at times

[JAZZCNC]

I hate asking so many questions but this is so alien to me and quite bamboozling at times
[/URL]

No you should ask no matter how alien or embarrassed you feel asking. We have all been where you are today so know exactly how it feels. . . .Ask away then ask some more.

[JAZZCNC]

This will just be for the bed section and not the legs etc as I'm aiming to put some more pennies away to be able afford alluminium profile for the bottom section or at least some other much lighter alternative that can be unbolted and taken apart.

I think I'm also gonna have to find a way to make the bed come apart aswell or at least some of the supports because If I ever have to move it all I'll need a crane :rofl:
[/URL]

Hi Neil,

Here's a bit of outside the box thinking to give your grey matter a workout.? . . . If your tight on space why not make a wall mounted router, a bit like a panel saw.:surprised:
There's no rules that says you have to work flat.! The advantages are meny with very few if any disadvantages.? . . Let me expand on the minus's & plus's.

99% of the time you'll clamp material to the bed, even offcuts you'll clamp so they dont get pulled/pushed into cutters path. So no real disadvantage being vertical or inclined.
The plus's being gravity will help greatly with chip clearance and all the crap falling into a catch tray or vac funnel you could build into the bottom.

If mounted so the gantry moves left to right or long axis length ways then the only Axis fighting gravity is the Z axis moving along the Yaxis and this is no big deal because your not lifting/lowering a real heavy mass so with the correct size motor/gearing it won't be a problem.
Though depending how or what you use for linear motion you may need to park it at the bottom when motors are disengaged to stop backdrive. If you use R&P with a worm drive then it wont back drive.!

The foot print on the shop floor Space is a massive saving (Obviosly you'll need a free wall long enough).
Being mounted on the wall you wont need quite as much material because you dont need to build all the frame work to bring it upto a working height. . . . Basicly it would be like building it to sit directly on the floor, with just a small frame to give a slight incline off the wall.
Also very easy to build wheels onto the frame work base for moving, would basicly go thru most workshop single door ways.

Being wall mounted and only standing off the wall a few feet it will basicly take the space of a large wardrobe.! Being like a wardrobe it thens makes it very easy to build a simple frame around it with 2 narrow sides(Or 1 if placed in corner) and folding doors on the front.? . . . Now it's a cabinet router with all the dust and crap contained leaving a nice clean workshop.! (Like mine.:rofl:) The important computer and control box could be mounted outside on one of the end panels for easy access.

So few disadvantages but several very usefull and easily implimented Advantages.

My next Mill will be built on this principle but with a twist I'll keep for another day. .:naughty:

Certainly food for thought.!

Edit: I've often thought to chop the legs off my machine and hang it off the wall and one day when I've nothing to do it may very well happen. . . Winters coming.:naughty:

[Jonathan]

I was originally going to mount my router to the roof, so at a bit of an odd angle. This was due to space. In the end I did mount it on the floor as I persuaded my Dad there was enough space.

[JAZZCNC]

I was originally going to mount my router to the roof, so at a bit of an odd angle. This was due to space. In the end I did mount it on the floor as I persuaded my Dad there was enough space.

Nah would give ya neck ache and a 10mm single flute cutter in the eye hurts like shit. .:tup:

[Jonathan]

Oh be carefull Jon your on sacred ground with the Acme brigade.! . . . They'll be after your Balls (screws).:naughty:

We'll see...

What about using 16mm ballscrews (RM1610) and rotating ballnuts. You save buying the end bearings, and the angular contact bearings aren't so expensive as they're not so big as with 25mm screws. Should get a very decent feedrate. Just a thought...

[JAZZCNC]

What about using 16mm ballscrews (RM1610) and rotating ballnuts. You save buying the end bearings, and the angular contact bearings aren't so expensive as they're not so big as with 25mm screws. Should get a very decent feedrate. Just a thought...

Yes if it was me I'd be seriously considering it. . . I'm a massive ballscrew fan has you know.!

But I was giving easy options that could be bought off the shelf at sensible money. Rotating nut is OK if you have the equipment IE: Mill etc and knowledge to make one. Don't think neil has the equipment.? The knowledge could be gained but probably daunting for someone new and was aiming my suggestions with this newness in mind.!

Think I'd also go with a higher 20mm pitch if being used solely for cutting woods n plastics so the cutting feed is in the meat of the motors torque. Reason being think for a machine this size nema34 would be needed and they don't spin as fast as 23's so with 10mm pitch then gearing would be needed to bring the speeds/feeds up and that will affect the torque.
You have to think when cutting wood you need high feeds and deep DOC for best performance and even faster for plastics, so better to put the right pitch screws on in the first place than use gearing IMO. . . . . Back to horse's for course's. .:confused: