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  1. #5
    Neale's Avatar
    Lives in Plymouth, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 20 Hours Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 1,740. Received thanks 297 times, giving thanks to others 11 times.
    On my machines I used feet with stems that fitted through the clearance holes (mind you, that was 12mm on the milling machine anyway) and used nuts and washers each side to adjust and lock. That way, you don't need to turn the "bolt" in its foot - from memory, the feet I had didn't have a hex or square section to put a spanner on.

    As for shimming - depends on the design. My Myford sits on a welded steel cabinet base, rather lighter than yours. With that, because the cabinet is relatively flexible, you make sure you have taken any wobble out of the base, then the lathe has adjustments where it bolts to the cabinet. My "new" lathe is a heavy ex-toolroom machine that weighs around 2800lb on its cast iron base. In this case, the base is part of the stiffness of the lathe itself and the bed is bolted tight to the base. It's difficult to believe that there is any scope for twist in that lot, but the recommendation for setting up both lathes is the same. Stick a longish bit of steel in the chuck, and turn both ends (near to and furthest from the chuck). Ideally, you use a test bar which has a reduced diameter in the middle so you only turn short sections at both ends. Both ends are turned without moving the cross-slide. If both end up the same diameter, you're spot on. Otherwise, put a tiny amount of twist in by tweaking the feet/adjustment bolts and keep trying. Sounds like your machine is another variation - as you say, level the stand, then shim the lathe mounting. Sounds like the most fiddly option, though, but at least you only ever do it once! I guess you have a way to lift the lathe on to its stand that you could use while shimming?
    Last edited by Neale; 28-10-2014 at 12:10 PM.

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