Halifax 10" lathe

**Ross77** · 02-12-2014

I have one those, its the uk version of the Atlas if memory serves. Stronger/wider castings but full of plastic parts.

There should be a roller bearing on each end. They will slide of but are press fitted to resist centrifugal force so take some getting off, you will need a puller or carefully beat the crap out of it with brass drifts. (not ideal)

If you don't need to take them off then I would leave them alone. I had to on mine because the main gear was damaged.

**i lunn** · 03-12-2014

Originally Posted by Ross77

I have one those, its the uk version of the Atlas if memory serves. Stronger/wider castings but full of plastic parts.

There should be a roller bearing on each end. They will slide of but are press fitted to resist centrifugal force so take some getting off, you will need a puller or carefully beat the crap out of it with brass drifts. (not ideal)

If you don't need to take them off then I would leave them alone. I had to on mine because the main gear was damaged.

Couple reasons to take them off main is to wash dirt out of bearings and the second is the thread on left off spindle where the collar 9.32 screws on is stripped (only about the first 8mm) so when down to bare shaft thinking possible re threading with slightly smaller thread then making a new collar unless any one can offer another idea! its one of them situations where I could do with a lathe to repair this lathe. Am I correct in thinking this collar is for adjusting the pre-load on the bearings?
If I do manage to remove the bearings do they go up to a shoulder when refitting?

**Ross77** · 03-12-2014

You can clean the bearings by just separating the outer from the inner as they are tapper bearings. has yours got the removable caps over the bearings?

Yes the thread is there to preload the bearings, how much thread is left? Not sure how easy it will be to rethread as I think it will be hardened. Is there not enough thread to cover the lock nut?

I did mine a while ago but don't think there are any collars. there is the main shoulder at the nose end but then the bearing inner races are compressed to preload the bearings.

I have to go to the workshop tomorrow to check a few bits for the mill so I will have a look at the spare spindle to see what its like.

**i lunn** · 03-12-2014

Originally Posted by Ross77

You can clean the bearings by just separating the outer from the inner as they are tapper bearings. has yours got the removable caps over the bearings?

Yes the thread is there to preload the bearings, how much thread is left? Not sure how easy it will be to rethread as I think it will be hardened. Is there not enough thread to cover the lock nut?

I did mine a while ago but don't think there are any collars. there is the main shoulder at the nose end but then the bearing inner races are compressed to preload the bearings.

I have to go to the workshop tomorrow to check a few bits for the mill so I will have a look at the spare spindle to see what its like.

Thanks Ross. Appreciated.
There is hardly any thread visable when all gears are in position. Anouther idea I had was to recess (counter bore) the small gear so I can pick up on threads hidden by gear but could/would weaken the gear somewhat. Anouther spindle at right price is better option.

**Ross77** · 03-12-2014

Originally Posted by i lunn

Thanks Ross. Appreciated.
There is hardly any thread visable when all gears are in position. Anouther idea I had was to recess (counter bore) the small gear so I can pick up on threads hidden by gear but could/would weaken the gear somewhat. Anouther spindle at right price is better option.

Ok the rear bearing slides on the shaft to allow for adjustment so there is no shoulder. You have to align the bearings with the caps on the housing.

If you didnt want the power feed or threading option then you could just leave out the drive gear.

You might be able to rethread it but thought it was worth mentioning about the hardening. Yeah a replacement would probably be best :0)

**i lunn** · 03-12-2014

Originally Posted by Ross77

Ok the rear bearing slides on the shaft to allow for adjustment so there is no shoulder. You have to align the bearings with the caps on the housing.

If you didnt want the power feed or threading option then you could just leave out the drive gear.

You might be able to rethread it but thought it was worth mentioning about the hardening. Yeah a replacement would probably be best :0)

Thanks Ross Tried puller on rear bearing but its solid puller wont touch it so washed it out best I can. Good point about drive gear as at the moment the fwd/rev selector for feed is broke so until I source some parts for that there is no desperate rush for spindle. Do you know if the thread a LH or RH?

**Ross77** · 03-12-2014

I think it was left hand to resist loosening during rotation, you should be able to chase the direction of the thread that is visible.

Mines a mix of atlas and halifax. Robbed all the best bits to make one lathe, most bits are interchangeable, except the spindle shafts.

If you get an atlas shaft then you will need the complete set up, pullies,bearings and oil seals as well. If you can stay awake have a look at my atlas 10 repair thread, page 4 for the spindles.

Pm me, might have a few bits you need.

**i lunn** · 06-12-2014

Originally Posted by Ross77

Ok the rear bearing slides on the shaft to allow for adjustment so there is no shoulder. You have to align the bearings with the caps on the housing.

If you didnt want the power feed or threading option then you could just leave out the drive gear.

You might be able to rethread it but thought it was worth mentioning about the hardening. Yeah a replacement would probably be best :0)

Ross just re-reading and see you say rear "bearing slides" I cannot see how pre-load can be done without this bearing sliding, I cannot get this off even with puller as only place to get puller is outer race so don't want to put to much force on it. I'm thinking using a press but this would be forcing against plastic pulley with the force being applied on the damaged (threaded) end of spindle can you see any problems as I don't want to damage pulley.
just read thro your repair post. What happened to the chap (bogstandard) you was communicating with?

**Ross77** · 06-12-2014

The inner race slides on the shaft to apply the preload. It is a very tight fit and over time can get worse.

It was a while ago that I did mine and cant remember every step. I seem to recall you take all the lock pins and keys out off the pullies and then slide them to one end to give you space to get at the bearing. The outter race can be moved back as well so you can get the puller on the inner race. Might be worth protecting the end.

If it wont move then try a little heat to break the bond or leave in an oil bath for a day or two.

I got your pm but not had chance to go to the workshop yet.

As for bog's I don't know, haven't been on here for a while myself. He sure would be the best one to help you tho.