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08-01-2015 #1
Surely the twist will be sorted when the rail is bolted tightly down, that's assuming that the epoxy is perfectly flat of course?
I'm going to use the sliding carriage method to drill and tap the holes, there is a clearance of 0.5mm either side of the bolt in the rail hole so plenty of room for adjustment. When I get the tooling/eco plates I'll be machining a reference edge to mount the carriages to the bottom piece of Ali, then the gantry will have a reference edge to mount the carriage plates to and thus I hope the gantry will be straight/perpendicular/parallel etc. etc. so that when I bolt the carriages to it the second rail will be referenced from the first which will be as straight as I can get it without having a machined reference edge in the epoxy to go on.....if that makes sense?
I think I'll get a straight edge, that will help with twist and straightness....plus the above and it should all be as acurate as it's possible for a bodger like me to get
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08-01-2015 #2
Gezzzz People have too much trust and expectations of epoxy.? You can't beat checking so buy or make a straight edge to confirm if you really think you need that level of accurecy in a router.!!!
Why waste money on Eco-cast if your going to mill the ground surface away.? . . . The whole point is the accurecy of the ground plate and no matter how careful you won't mill to same level as grinding gives.!
What I do with ground plate when I need a ref edge is mill pockets on the ref line and insert aluminium dowels 3mm proud of surface. Then I machine half the dowels away to the plate surface leaving me machined ref edge without disturbing the ground plate.
Like this.
Last edited by JAZZCNC; 08-01-2015 at 07:34 PM.
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08-01-2015 #3
Have to agree with Dean, can't see the point in going to all trouble of designing your machine, getting feedback from the experienced members and then making a horses arse of aligning the rails at the last hurdle.
No offense intended.
Regards
Mike
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