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  1. #1
    Thank you Geoffrey. Its good practice and as long as I'm being understood I'm happy:) Min svenska är lite bättre dock ;)

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by bofred View Post
    Min svenska är lite bättre dock ;)

    what he said........

    what ever that means

    looking good and keep the updates coming :)

  3. #3
    Min svenska är lite bättre dock - ‎My Swedish is a bit better though
    (thank you google translator!)

    Now I can see the side view of the gantry the lower gantry beam is actually supported underneath as well as at the rear - should be better than I originally thought from the first photo.

    Once you get the side plates added it will be a nice machine. But before you do I would add kiln dried sand to the gantry beams to add weight and provide damping. As this is a fixed gantry machine there is absolutely nothing to loose and it will help with the finish of the cut. Add one end plate, turn the machine on its side and fill to the top with sand, then add the second plate.

    On the electrical side - and I'm not an electronics expert so I might be worrying over nothing - is it good practise to put the stepper driver right over the top of the transformer coil (trafo in swedish)? Is there a risk of electrical interference?
    Last edited by routercnc; 14-03-2015 at 04:51 PM.
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  4. #4
    Yes, google translate is spot on:)

    And thank you for all feedback. I really need feedback since this is my first CNC.
    The sand filled beams sounds nice. Problem is that I have so many holes to plug. The lower Xbeam has a total of 26 holes in it. 8 on each side to fasten it to the Zbeam and 10 for the linear bearing screws. I once had loudspeaker with sand filled stands and that worked really good.
    I'm a bit worried that the Z moving part becomes weak but that is a later problem.

    The electric cabinet could be as you say a bit noisy. Thank you. When I made it I figured the drivers had grounded houses and the "ring trafo" should not radiate that much magnetic fields. But I have the break out board unprotected and I don't know how sensible it is. I am able to fit a plate between the trafo and the drivers if I need. I planning on having shielded cables for the motors but the "on to the break out board cable" from the PC is unknown (cheap cable).

    Here is a short video clip of when I test ran the motors. The wantai driver seems to have plenty of power. Cheers!



    http://www.br-automation.com/downloa...MASMOT-ENG.pdf
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    Last edited by bofred; 20-03-2015 at 12:41 PM.

  5. #5
    Ive got the side plates. They are water cut in 10mm thick aluminum. Ive tighten the upper part of the gantry and it feels really stiffer than I thought. I tried hitting it with a peace of wood and I could feel really small vibrations when hitting from the side so I might need the back plate as well. Otherwise it feels like hitting a rock

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  6. #6
    The Y-plate is on its place and all screws in the frame work is tightened firmly (a lot of screws). It took me almost two hours just to saw the plate out of 20mm aluminum and machine the edges. And one hour more to make the holes for the screws. It seems to slide nicely on the bearings and it feels solid already. No ball-screw installed yet.
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  7. #7
    Starting to look very useful. Parts mainly form the scrapyard? We could do with a few scrapyards over here that keep all that lovely ally profile in stock!!! Great stuff. G.

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