Thread milling shallow bind hole

[suesi34e]

Hi Mike,
Yes thanks for the thought. I will certainly have practise before picking up the finished parts. The parts are for finishing off nicely m12 stud that protrudes a flat surface. Basically, just a blanking cap.
Many thanks
Steve

[mekanik]

Hi Mike,
The parts are for finishing off nicely m12 stud that protrudes a flat surface. Basically, just a blanking cap.
Many thanks
Steve

Steve i know this is a silly question but is it not possible to measure the stud protrusion , remove the stud and machine the protruding length from the end ?
Mike

[suesi34e]

Hi Mike,
Tar very much for the thought and I don't think it is a silly question! I had tried to see it is was possible. Had I have known to cut the stud down prior to the whole assembly being welded up I could have. As for now I don't think I can get on the stud in anyway to cut it down it protrudes up through a large flat plate that is mirror polished so easy to scratch etc. I think I will just look a slightly larger pocket to hug the threads and stick it on like you said.
Tar very much for the help
Steve

[mekanik]

hi Steve
Have you thought about using stainless dome nuts that you would fit on a cylinder head, maybe thin them down a bit.

[andy_con]

i own 3x tapmatic tappings head, but since switching to thread mills ive not used the tapping heads once.

thread mills are ace, the best thing ever.

granted i use m2 and m3 threadmills in ally, but i always get good results.

what you could try is altering the dia of the threadmill in the coding setup, so do a few passes getting deeper (or wider, till you reach the tools actual dia) and deeper till you have taken the correct amount of material off. the good thing with thread mills is you dont have to take the full depth of cut in one go.

hope this helps

[suesi34e]

Hi andy_con
I like the idea of the thread mills and thank you very much for you advice. I just hope I don't go wrong a break a tool I don't have too many of them!
Many thanks
Steve

i own 3x tapmatic tappings head, but since switching to thread mills ive not used the tapping heads once.

thread mills are ace, the best thing ever.

granted i use m2 and m3 threadmills in ally, but i always get good results.

what you could try is altering the dia of the threadmill in the coding setup, so do a few passes getting deeper (or wider, till you reach the tools actual dia) and deeper till you have taken the correct amount of material off. the good thing with thread mills is you dont have to take the full depth of cut in one go.

hope this helps

[andy_con]

Like I say do it in a couple of passes.

Make the treadmills dia bigger and you will only take a small amount of material away. Reduce the dia and you will start to take more material away.

Very simple

Hi andy_con
I like the idea of the thread mills and thank you very much for you advice. I just hope I don't go wrong a break a tool I don't have too many of them!
Many thanks
Steve

[suesi34e]

Hi mekanik
Thank you very much for the thought. I tried a dome nut but I just didn't suit the look of the parts so I moved away from it. I think after a good bit of figuring out I am getting there with the caps.
Many thanks
Steve

hi Steve
Have you thought about using stainless dome nuts that you would fit on a cylinder head, maybe thin them down a bit.