First time build - Steel Frame CNC Router

**examorph** · 09-01-2016

routercnc - Thanks, will go down the epoxy route on the X and EcoCast plate on the Z.

JAZZCNC - Thanks for spending the time making the changes to the model to show me, this is much appreciated!
Any chance you could send me the SW files for this please or let me know what size rad it is and I will draw it up? Also, just to confirm as I haven't done much machining so not sure, what flexibility does the spindle overhanging extra 100mm give you? Is it normal to machine stuff which sits off the end of the table?
I will get a Mig welder arranged as suggested and also have a play about with the gantry sides and see if I can setup what you've recommended, should have some images up for comment soon.

**JAZZCNC** · 10-01-2016

Originally Posted by examorph

JAZZCNC - Thanks for spending the time making the changes to the model to show me, this is much appreciated!
Any chance you could send me the SW files for this please or let me know what size rad it is and I will draw it up?

I liked the Bloody Hell version better. . .Lol

The changes to the model took 5mins. You need to learn how to use Weldments and structural members then frame design is simple, quick and accurate.
I'll send the model back to you with a few more changes and suggestions based on what you've drawn already. I haven't changed what you did at all just added a new configuration with my frame etc so you can flick back n forth and see the diffference.

You'll also see how I made the frame.!!

The extra 100mm doesn't affect the machine stiffness but does make it more versatile. Ie cutting dove tails on draw ends, cutting locks or hindges into doors. Machining over height parts that won't fit under gantry or using extra long reach tools. It also allows an easy way for a 4th axis without affecting the cutting area or having to fit or remove everytime use machine.

**examorph** · 10-01-2016

Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

I liked the Bloody Hell version better. . .Lol

Haha, well in that case then, Bloody Hell Dean! Cheers for all the help!
Got a habit of going back over emails and making them more formal at work, think I carried that through here too

Looking forward to seeing how you done the models and checking out Weldments and structural members on youtube now.

**examorph** · 11-01-2016

I made a few changes to the gantry sides as suggested:
Attachment 17174 Attachment 17173 Attachment 17175 Attachment 17176 Attachment 17177
Side plate is 10mm thick steel welded to gantry box section. Clearance between the frame and gantry sides is 10mm, so need to be sure that bolts which go into the ball nut bracket are only M5 so that the head doesn't stick out too far.

Images of X Axis carriage support plate also attached, thought it might be easier for access if I followed other designs on this forum and had bolts running into the side. If you think the 4 bolt square pattern on top face would be better, I could probably cut a slot in the gantry base 'L' to get access to them and have it that way instead?
If holes seem to close on the support plate, would it be worth going with the smaller width type carriages (without the flange) on the X also?

One thing I haven't really thought out yet for the frame is the bed. Will look back through some build logs and see how others have been doing it and get something up for comment soon.

**examorph** · 26-01-2016

Some things I am struggling with and hope you guys can help me with please:
1. Does using wider/flange type carriages on the X Axis have any benefit over the smaller width type carriages or am I OK going with the smaller ones?
2. Are there any cost effective ways of setting up a decent bed? I am seeing tool steel and aluminium beds on other build logs which I read can be >£300

**JAZZCNC** · 26-01-2016

#1 They give a little more support but it's not a game changer and using the narrow type is ok if you have them or can't fit the wide ones in. If no obsticles then I'd always use the wide if possible, the price difference is nothing.

#2 Depends what your doing but Don't waste your money on Aluminium bed if your mostly cutting woods because most of the time you'll have spoil board on top. For the main base a good grade ply wood sealed is fine. Then put spoil board on top of this and surface that.
If you need the flatness of Tooling plate or surfaced aluminium bed and plan on using coolant all the time then you'll need something that's stable so spend the money but IME most the time you'll have spoil board on top. And probably screwing into it.?
Most common question I'm asked is "What do I use for work holding" the answer is "Anything that Works".!! . . . I'll Clamp, screw, bolt , stick or suck and often some combination of few of them just to get a job done. Thou by far the most common is screwing down into spoil board.!