Thor, or should that be Zeus?

[Tom J]

1/3 rd equal parts of Cement (52.5R), Sand (Sharp Sand, 0-2mm) and Basalt Stone (6-10mm). 20% Water volume based on Cement used (so in this case, 5 litres per 1 bag of 25kg each above).

...seems to be a lot of water.
In my work place we add circa 30 litres of water to 750kg of mix (all depends how wet is the sand).
This gives nice mix to form roof tiles. 10% water too much and mix is too wet and have to be dump - happens daily.
My point is to get correct amount of water - mix it well and we shall get strong cement.

[Chaz]

...seems to be a lot of water.
In my work place we add circa 30 litres of water to 750kg of mix (all depends how wet is the sand).
This gives nice mix to form roof tiles. 10% water too much and mix is too wet and have to be dump - happens daily.
My point is to get correct amount of water - mix it well and we shall get strong cement.

Really? I was under the impression this was a fairly dry mix. Without the plastisizer it wont even bond.

[Tom J]

Really? I was under the impression this was a fairly dry mix. Without the plastisizer it wont even bond.

Should add that the mix goes through bed/slipper which is kind of mold and is compacted by packshaft with fingers - layer of concrete is 12mm thick and travel 1m/s speed.
In your case vibrating plate is a must. Curing process is complex too (4 stages with extra water), retarder is used to slow curing process.
Since I work there, I use min amount of water (just for mix to be not brittle) - for diy concrete job

[Clive S]

Tom I am not sure you are understanding this way of moulding concrete as it is done with superplasticiser which makes a very fluid mix and MUST NOT be vibrated as it will settle the aggregate to the bottom. The way it works is that it separates all the individual fines and stones in suspension for about half an hour then they come back together for the set.
This explains it better. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ySyaKb2_b0 and here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICp4...w#t=107.971789

[Tom J]

Tom I am not sure you are understanding this way of moulding concrete as it is done with superplasticiser which makes a very fluid mix and MUST NOT be vibrated as it will settle the aggregate to the bottom. The way it works is that it separates all the individual fines and stones in suspension for about half an hour then they come back together for the set.
This explains it better. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ySyaKb2_b0

ok, I was referring to cement mix with coarse sand. Got your point guys

[Clive S]

ok, I was referring to cement mix with coarse sand. Got your point guys

This works the same with say 22x15 aggregate but they grade it down using smaller and smaller aggregate down to ash.
I am looking at building a concrete mill with Dean's help using this method. We shall see.

[Tom J]

This works the same with say 22x15 aggregate but they grade it down using smaller and smaller aggregate down to ash.
I am looking at building a concrete mill with Dean's help using this method. We shall see.

its good for heavy work like milling in steel where damping vibration is important. Technically should be easier to build, considering your planes are smooth, even, leveled, squared etc.
All mounting surfaced for rails, bearings etc can be prepared - machined and than fix to the mold by precise adjustment before mix is filled in. That is how I would do and will in one day.

[Chaz]

Should add that the mix goes through bed/slipper which is kind of mold and is compacted by packshaft with fingers - layer of concrete is 12mm thick and travel 1m/s speed.
In your case vibrating plate is a must. Curing process is complex too (4 stages with extra water), retarder is used to slow curing process.
Since I work there, I use min amount of water (just for mix to be not brittle) - for diy concrete job

Agreed with Clive S, plus, this wouldnt be something I could do from my garage ...

Plus, there is no air bubbles in my mix, this I am certain of.