Eyeballs and comments sought for noob build

[Boyan Silyavski]

If you are using Hiwin 20 long blocks/ or even short/ , 200mm between both ends from outside measured is good for your machine. 260mm is desirable for serious build and i would say ideal, and 300mm for OTT and heavy gantry and really strong and large machine. So basically with Hiwin long blocks they will be almost touching each other .

The idea is the bit to be in that distance , looked from side. In other words the spindle overhang. But on a machine like yours even if not, its not a big deal, as bearings are much more rated than forces involved.

[danilius]

If you are using Hiwin 20 long blocks/ or even short/ , 200mm between both ends from outside measured is good for your machine. 260mm is desirable for serious build and i would say ideal, and 300mm for OTT and heavy gantry and really strong and large machine. So basically with Hiwin long blocks they will be almost touching each other .

The idea is the bit to be in that distance , looked from side. In other words the spindle overhang. But on a machine like yours even if not, its not a big deal, as bearings are much more rated than forces involved.

Thanks for that, quite reassuring.

[danilius]

So, having taken your sagacious advice on board, the gantry walls now sit on a block that is shared between the ballnut and the blocks. The ballscrews are essentially level with the bed. So, gentleman, in your considered opinion am I at the point where it's worth putting all the detail in now?

[routercnc]

So, having taken your sagacious advice on board, the gantry walls now sit on a block that is shared between the ballnut and the blocks. The ballscrews are essentially level with the bed. So, gentleman, in your considered opinion am I at the point where it's worth putting all the detail in now?

Yes, looking good now.

[Greeny]

Hi,

Something to consider might be a double plate set up when attaching the y-axis. This allows for easier adjustment.
In essence the y gantry sides have a base plate attached to form a y-axis assembly. This can then be bolted to a matching plate that is attached to the x-axis carriages.
See http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/10403...aver/page4/#31 & the following post for a better explanation.

This can be seen in a very recent post of the finished machine here (post #69)
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/10403...aver/page7/#69

Cheers

[paulus.v]

Good point of the double plate for easier adjustment.

If you want a stronger machine...


Regarding the length of the X axes screws and the overall length of the machine I do not see why you need the frame longer than the linear rails. If you lower the ballnut mount with a spacer and move it to the back (closer to the motor) you can shorten the screw at front by at least 10 cm, having the end blocks going under the gantry base plate.

[danilius]

Good point of the double plate for easier adjustment.

If you want a stronger machine...


Regarding the length of the X axes screws and the overall length of the machine I do not see why you need the frame longer than the linear rails. If you lower the ballnut mount with a spacer and move it to the back (closer to the motor) you can shorten the screw at front by at least 10 cm, having the end blocks going under the gantry base plate.

Oooohh, nice one. Definitely need to give that a go. Thanks for that.

In fact, thanks to everyone. Sop far all the advice has been spot-on and seriously helpful.

[danilius]

Hi,

Something to consider might be a double plate set up when attaching the y-axis. This allows for easier adjustment.
Cheers

It's definitely something to consider as a future mod, or son-of- machine. I really like the concept. Right now, since this is my first ever build, I want to keep things as crude as possible. From what I have read I have so mucg fun to look forward too, like aligning everything, tramming and smashing through a collection of cutters. Can't tear mt hair out anymore coz I'm bald.