Power supply for anodising?

**Voicecoil** · 22-06-2019

It doesn't look too different from the one I've used with reasonable success, so I can't see why you should have any major problems. The only comment I would make is that I found 15V wasn't quite enough voltage to meet the "720 rule" if your solution is cold, however now it's summer you should be fine with that.

**lilvfr400boy** · 22-06-2019

It's very odd, Im unable to get amps to push any higher then 0.3/0.5 amps when anything aluminium is placed into the tank using it, I'm using an aluminium half inc unf adapter which has the positive directly connected to a (sanded) bare patch of aluminium as has the part I'm wanting to do which is half inch unf female threaded onto the part that's positive. I'm unsure where the issue lies or if the supply is faulty perhaps ?

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**Voicecoil** · 22-06-2019

Hmmm, sounds odd - maybe post a pic of your bath and then perhaps someone can spot the problem?. BTW, how big is the part you're trying to anodise??? If it's small the current will be low anyway at 15V.

**lilvfr400boy** · 22-06-2019

Originally Posted by Voicecoil

Hmmm, sounds odd - maybe post a pic of your bath and then perhaps someone can spot the problem?. BTW, how big is the part you're trying to anodise??? If it's small the current will be low anyway at 15V.

Will do once I finish work, much appreciated the part is roughly 31 sq inches

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**Boyan Silyavski** · 22-06-2019

Check at the back if there are any jumpers. My power supply has jumpers that change the mode of it, so that may be the reason. Use thick wires and clean your plates. What plates are you using inside the bath? Aluminum or lead?

**lilvfr400boy** · 22-06-2019

Currently using lead, I'll check this as the instructions that's included suggest for plating negative on the part. Which I know of course is incorrect for anodising. I re attempted last night with bare titanium wire made into a coil inside the bare ally thread on the part also again unsuccessful

hoping I'm missing something simple as I've had some really nice results prior to this supply

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**lilvfr400boy** · 22-06-2019

Here's a picture of the setup as is 0 amps though I've adjusted it up from zero. Sanded the titanium wire back and the part sat in deox for 3 mins prior to entering the anodising tank. Tanks at 20 degrees and it's being agitated too.

Edit ; will add I've just placed an led between the POS and the part which lit immediately so I know the part is conducting just fine the way I have it connected which is suggesting to me either the power supply is faulty and or not capable for use anodising ?

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**john swift** · 22-06-2019

what happens when you turn the curren limit knob clockwise to turn the current limit up ?

John

**lilvfr400boy** · 23-06-2019

Originally Posted by john swift

what happens when you turn the curren limit knob clockwise to turn the current limit up ?

John

Literally nothing as it's setup, it's as if the unit itself is clicking off the current. I've ran several tests tonight, both wires In the bath which gives full volts and current , reversing the polarity ( plating setup ) which also have full current and volts, the only way it doesn't work is setup to anodise I'm totally stumped by it I'll be going back to the car charger temporarily as I'm now a few days behind with bits

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**Voicecoil** · 23-06-2019

It's worth checking your connections (with a DMM set to ohms/continuity) - one probe on the connection to the PSU, one on the workpiece. In my setup (I use sodium bisulphate) I'd be expecting about 0.7...0.9A on 31in2 @ 20 deg C - always seems to be less than the 720 rule predicts, so I just run it for proportionately longer.