Newbie from NZ

[rjsutton]

Thanks
Can You "suggest " an encoder and controller setup that would do what you mention. Im not sure where (or How) a Home microswitch would be wired into the circuit to reset-recalibrate.
If not too much bother could you please give me a diag (or lead me to where i would find one) with the encoder wire and microswitch.
I do think those chinese motors would not work as they just too small. I don't want to WASTE time and money . I will have to shorten the ballscrew slightly to fit the wider gearbox in as well

Andy if your still around do you think the new motor link above will be better choice of power for the ballscrew ?

[Doddy]

Thanks
Can You "suggest " an encoder and controller setup that would do what you mention. Im not sure where (or How) a Home microswitch would be wired into the circuit to reset-recalibrate.
If not too much bother could you please give me a diag (or lead me to where i would find one) with the encoder wire and microswitch.
I do think those chinese motors would not work as they just too small. I don't want to WASTE time and money . I will have to shorten the ballscrew slightly to fit the wider gearbox in as well

Andy if your still around do you think the new motor link above will be better choice of power for the ballscrew ?

I'm "thinking" that you're looking for an off-the-shelf solution, and there are such things readily available. For example.

https://www.amazon.com/uniquegoods-W...gateway&sr=8-1

All you need are two limit switches. The instruction manual (linked at the bottom of the page on Amazon) shows how to attach two NPN proximity switches (https://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Induct...s%2C204&sr=8-7 and from the photo that you provided in post 12, I'd simply drill two holes in the side-wall an inch or so above the moving sled, one at each end of travel, and fit the proximity sensors there; Add a short piece of angle steel attached to the bolts on the linear blocks (you show 8 bolts in the image) to project up to provide a moving vane to actuate the proximity sensors when the sled is in the two end positions.

Job done.

[rjsutton]

cool
so i wouldnt need an encoder to check the revs moved if i just use the gear you show above?
bloody marvelous if thats the case ( can you please confirm my reasoning )
ive just ordered

https://www.ebay.com/itm/120W-High-T...97.m4902.l9144

with a ratio of 1:7.5 which should give me 3.21 NM as far as i can see
its a 120w motor so will be heaps better than the little ones
I hope im reading everything as i should be.
appreciate all your help.
Richard

[Doddy]

The purpose of the encoder is to allow the control system to determine where the sled physically is (actually, where it thinks it is, based on the number of [partial] revolutions and a knowledge of the screw pitch). That's one way of skinning the cat. The other is to simply think of what your actual use-case is - which is to understand when the sled is fully opened, and when it's fully closed - which the two proximity sensors will allow you to determine.

This simpler solution offers fewer bells and whistles (e.g. stall detection and acceleration/deceleration around limits), but also fewer things to go wrong - potentially higher reliability. You could introduce stall detection with a suitably rated circuit breaker. You'll have to tune the system with the actual position of the sense vane but it should be robust enough for your simple use-case.

I'm not a motors man - a bigger number looks better than a smaller number to me.

[Doddy]

...and one other thing - with heavy duty motors (or rather, heavy current draw on a low voltage supply) - remember Ohm's law. I'd personally slave a lead-acid battery close-by and trickle-charge it from the vehicle battery. Then use the shortest, beefiest cable runs to the controller and to the motor, maybe even bi/tri wiring it to reduce the power loss in the cable.

[rjsutton]

Mate
looking at the install instructions
there's a "manual control" bit
i would use this instead of the wireless. Im not sure what type of switches etc or how it would work
assume simple off -on switch but what do 2 switches do
1 would turn motor on? below is chinese words in manual

Manual switch control Connect two manual switches.
Turn on the power,motor remotes on the corresponding direction.
When reach the limit switch,motor stops
.In manual working process,the remote controller is invalid

understand when use manual the remote doesnt work . Good because i want it all hard wired Not remote.
turn on power motor remotes on the cor.. direction... WHAT?
what is second switch for ?? im not very good with this wiring stuff
If i had a hand controller with 2 buttons ( 1 forward -1 reverse 12vdc operation) could these "buttons" be used to SWITCH thru the manual port and would a mere press ( not holding) keep the circuit going till the sensor stopped it? then press button 2 to reverse?

If you dont know this than totaly understand
i can try a different forum
cheers

One more quick thing please
the speed controller with reversable limit switch link you gave me
Im trying to find a similar piece of gear that would control another motor with 2 sensors ( 1 each end of travel) that onced reached would reverse direction
Sam as the larger one but dont need wifi etc just basic that can take the proximity switches. Have googled but nothing seems to have 6 connectors for the 2 sensors. plenty with speed and revers SWITCH but not for proximity . Anyway any help appreciated on this search

[Doddy]

I think you've included a marked up copy of the manual?, with Mac Preview I can't see the highlighted sections, so this reply is a little blind.

I agree - manual is likely a better system, but with the 30 minutes I spent looking I couldn't find a similar manual-only solution. Hide the remote.

The two switches - one for open, one for close. I'd look to a DPDT centre-off rocker switch (e.g https://www.amazon.co.uk/VASI4KO-Wat.../dp/B004J6PY2A)

That way you can use this single switch to actuate the open in one position, close in the other, and "nothing" with the switch in the centre position.

I don't think push buttons would work well - I think the inputs are non-latching (you'd have to hold the button down for the duration of travel). The rocker switch overcomes this. This applies to the hand-held pendant that you describe.

There are ways around this - without getting clever I'd use two separate 12V relays with diodes in series with the coil - one wired one way, the other reversed, wired across the motor - in one direction one relay actuates, in the other, the second relay actuates, and each relay is used to short the input to the corresponding demand input to the controller. I can sketch a diagram for this later when I'm not getting ready to go to work. But you'd have to understand how the controller behaves if you present two demands at once (e.g. what happens if you press open, when it's traversing to the closed position).

The biggest problem I have with that controller is understanding the connectors required for the manual switches and the potentiometer control. You could do with getting that information to get the switch/speed controller set-up.

Re. the last question - if your issue is the use of 3 wire proximity switches - you can replace these with microswitches for 2-wire interfaces, or use the proximity switch to actuate a relay and use the relay's NO contacts to provide the 2-wire interface to the controller.

[rjsutton]

I'm "thinking" that you're looking for an off-the-shelf solution, and there are such things readily available. For example.

https://www.amazon.com/uniquegoods-W...gateway&sr=8-1

All you need are two limit switches. The instruction manual (linked at the bottom of the page on Amazon) shows how to attach two NPN proximity switches (https://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Induct...s%2C204&sr=8-7 and from the photo that you provided in post 12, I'd simply drill two holes in the side-wall an inch or so above the moving sled, one at each end of travel, and fit the proximity sensors there; Add a short piece of angle steel attached to the bolts on the linear blocks (you show 8 bolts in the image) to project up to provide a moving vane to actuate the proximity sensors when the sled is in the two end positions.

Job done.

Doddy
can you please help
ive installed 3 of the uniquegoods 30 amp controllers with npn switches each end
all works 100% BUT i want to get rid of the remotes and use a simple push button hand controller
ive wired this into the manual switch but i can only get it to work by using only 2 of the 4 wires. i think im grounding the circuit so infact closing the switch. trouble as soon as i release the button the motor stops ( with remote it stays ngaged until it hits the npn switch. is there a quick fix to turn this bit into a stay on system so when release the BUTTON it keeps moving until it hits the end then it reverses the direction. As said it works NOW with the remote as one press keeps it moving. Do i need to wire the handpiece differently or use the 2 other wires in the manual bit. ( says that using the manual makes the remote redundant but it doesnt do this . Any help cheers Richard