Thread: i7 Water cooling system
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01-01-2012 #1
That's the general idea.
It was so long ago I can't really remember (they're still not fully cut out as I've been doing other things). Do you mean to make the whole profile, or just cutting them out once the inner profile is complete?
Almost - I generally get it to drill the holes first, then put screws in those holes and then cut the inside and outside profile. Doing it in that order means the material doesn't have to be clamped to the bed particularly well to start with.
It gets annoying when, as I have today, there's 180 parts to screw down with 2 screws in each...tried double sided tape but that left a bit of a mess and still needed one screw in each to be sure.
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01-01-2012 #2
Anodising oxidises the outer surface of the part, then the dye bonds with that so to re-anodise and dye you need to remove the previous layer of aluminium oxide. If you submerge it in sodium hydroxide (NaOH / caustic soda) the aluminium oxide layer will be dissolved. However you have to be careful since that will reduce the size of the part, especially if you leave it in too long. If there's fine threads they could disappear...
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01-01-2012 #3
http://astro.neutral.org/anodise.shtml - pretty useful website about DIY anodising.
Fabric dye not always work and fade with time. Commercial dye gives way better results
I must try it some day
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01-01-2012 #4
I found it is good way to mount when cutting lots of small parts. I use drywall screws + power screwdriver- quick and easy. Drywall screws have sharp threads and cross-groove which locks perfectly with screwdriver bits- no slippage thou. And obviously no need to worry to match mounting holes/grooves in machine bed.
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