. .

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by Gytis View Post
    this time I took JAZZ ideas (hope you don't mind JAZZ?),
    Nope don't mind at all, only show what I don't mind being plagiarized.!!

    Couple of pointers to avoid pit falls which can easily get ya.?

    Slot will probably need lifting (or lowering).? Reason being chances are you won't find a timing belt short enough to keep slot in middle and still fit motor in.! The pics don't show it but the slot is offset towards top, the Ball-screw actually mounts above the slot. The ballnut fastens on top side of plate that fastens to backside of Z axis rear plate.

    Would use BK/BF not FF/FK blocks mounted straight onto rear of front plate then you can get rid of those plates. Will also make assembly much easier.

    With rear covers Instead of 3 flats I'd consider having a nice Arc so single piece of plate bends and follows it's shape instead of 3 separate plates.
    On my design I've done it slightly different with the top/bottom rail plates shaped then single 2mm plate bends and follows shape when fastened. This way less work in making the braces and less needed has you don't need any near gantry sides to old the shape.

    I'd also beef up the braces just removing enough material so Ballnut passes thru.
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 18-07-2013 at 11:10 PM.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Nope don't mind at all, only show what I don't mind being plagiarized.!!
    Come on JAZZ!, show your secret projects

    Slot will probably need lifting (or lowering).? Reason being chances are you won't find a timing belt short enough to keep slot in middle and still fit motor in.
    I left slot in the same position, just lifted ball screw up as you suggest, I think now there is enough space (in the model now fitted T5-20 tooth pulleys)

    Would use BK/BF not FF/FK blocks mounted straight onto rear of front plate then you can get rid of those plates. Will also make assembly much easier.
    I did it, now both sides BK fitted. It really makes difference in assembly, and less machining in the parts.

    With rear covers Instead of 3 flats I'd consider having a nice Arc so single piece of plate bends and follows it's shape instead of 3 separate plates.
    well, arch is nice but I followed the angle of side plate, that's why I made braces like this shape, 3 plates is just in the model, in real life it will be in 1 piece (I hope).


    Thanks for the useful tips JAZZ !

    __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ________________________________________


    And finally, one question:

    timing belts width 15mm or enough 10mm ?, pulleys T5 or different?

    Thanks to all !
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1.jpg 
Views:	254 
Size:	39.1 KB 
ID:	9312   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2.jpg 
Views:	236 
Size:	43.3 KB 
ID:	9313   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	3.jpg 
Views:	265 
Size:	72.5 KB 
ID:	9314   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	4.jpg 
Views:	233 
Size:	35.1 KB 
ID:	9315   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	5.jpg 
Views:	242 
Size:	51.2 KB 
ID:	9316   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	6.jpg 
Views:	247 
Size:	54.2 KB 
ID:	9317  

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Gytis View Post
    Come on JAZZ!, show your secret projects
    Could but then I'd have to kill you ALL.!! . . . And I actually do like some of you so I'm doing it to protect the innocent. . .


    Quote Originally Posted by Gytis View Post
    And finally, one question:

    timing belts width 15mm or enough 10mm ?, pulleys T5 or different?
    15mm and T5 . . . Don't go less than 18T on the pulleys and I find 20T the best for belt life and fitting etc.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Could but then I'd have to kill you ALL.!! . . . And I actually do like some of you so I'm doing it to protect the innocent. . .
    I do not want to know any more your secrets, I'll better stay in safe side

    15mm and T5 . . . Don't go less than 18T on the pulleys and I find 20T the best for belt life and fitting etc.
    I was almost right in this direction

    Thanks JAZZ

  5. Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Could but then I'd have to kill you ALL.!! . . . And I actually do like some of you so I'm doing it to protect the innocent. . ..
    oh, which of us do you like then Jazz? :D

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by irving2008 View Post
    oh, which of us do you like then Jazz? :D
    Could tell you Irving but then I'd have to kill you all to protect my self. .

    Quote Originally Posted by Gytis View Post
    Hi Irving,

    I almost sure that you are right, but it will be my first built CNC (so I'm trying to do my best as I can)
    what I know about screw and ends?

    only one,
    fixed + fixed ends its much bater than fixed + floated
    (it will eliminates wipping and increas the speed ?)

    Thanks for input !
    Completely agree with Irving. Fine for industrial machines using servo's with high feed rates 25m/min+ and heavy loads but here the only difference you'll see is less cash in your wallet.!!
    With DIY building you'll gain more performance by concentrating on build quality and careful alignment of screws/motors and linear rails than using Industry standards.

    One thing wanted to point out which catches new builders out is to think carefully about bolt hole location and fastening of brackets etc.?
    Often the obvious place to fasten something is completely the wrong place which makes assembly a right pain in the arse.

    IE: You have the Y axis ball-nut bracket (thru slot) fastening from the front side of Z axis rear plate. Doing this means you have to remove front plate from Z axis to access those bolts or drill access holes in it.
    You need this bracket to have some adjustment to make alignment with Y axis ball-nut easy and doing this from front and thru a hole will be a pain so would be much easier if it bolted from the rear into tapped holes in the Z axis rear plate.
    It's simple things like this that make building and setup just that bit less painful.! . . . Unfortunately finding these things out often comes from building the first machine and at worst case scraping a few parts learning on first build.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Could tell you Irving but then I'd have to kill you all to protect my self. .


    Fine for industrial machines using servo's with high feed rates 25m/min+ and heavy loads
    This will be my second CNC with these feed rates

    You need this bracket to have some adjustment to make alignment with Y axis ball-nut easy and doing this from front and thru a hole will be a pain so would be much easier if it bolted from the rear into tapped holes in the Z axis rear plate.
    You mean like this (see pics) , just drill a bigger hole in the bracket for adjustment ?

    Unfortunately finding these things out often comes from building the first machine and at worst case scraping a few parts learning on first build
    I understand this and I'm ready for this (to scrap few parts, especially with my tools)!

    Thank you guys
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	7.jpg 
Views:	294 
Size:	116.3 KB 
ID:	9319  

  8. #8
    HI,

    this is my almost finished CNC machine model,
    bed is from the aluminum extrusions (heavy) 90 x 45 and 45 x 45, it will cost me about 800 eu + delivery?, only for the extrusions!
    overall dimensions (bed) is 1590 x 1250 x 590 mm.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1.jpg 
Views:	300 
Size:	167.3 KB 
ID:	9332   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2.jpg 
Views:	286 
Size:	103.5 KB 
ID:	9333   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	3.jpg 
Views:	287 
Size:	178.0 KB 
ID:	9334   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	4.jpg 
Views:	280 
Size:	220.1 KB 
ID:	9335   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	5.jpg 
Views:	295 
Size:	89.9 KB 
ID:	9336  

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Step drill bits (where to get) ?
    By Gytis in forum Marketplace Discussion
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 07-08-2013, 12:04 AM
  2. NEW MEMBER: First time build
    By PAULRO in forum New Member Introductions
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 22-02-2013, 01:37 PM
  3. OK, time to heed the advice of people on here and change build material
    By deannos in forum Gantry/Router Machines & Building
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 12-12-2011, 11:29 AM
  4. Step 4 router
    By John S in forum Milling Machines, Builds & Conversions
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 11-08-2009, 04:16 PM
  5. Step clamp
    By Lee Roberts in forum Programmers Corner
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 14-10-2008, 02:39 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •