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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by cncJim View Post
    Thanks Jonathan, I am in two minds about opening it up. Part of me wants to open it up and check it out but then I think stuff it, keep running it until I have problems, and deal with the bearings then.?
    If you leave the bearings and the grease/oil is no longer present they're not going to last very long, then you'll need new bearings - i.e 7005 matched pair for about £50-£100. Compare that to a few £'s on the right lubricant. However you might find that there's nothing wrong...

    Just looked at the photos again, and it looks like the spindle itself has blackened? Is that just soot? I hope it's not got hot enough to anneal the collet taper, as that would clearly be a big problem.
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    If you leave the bearings and the grease/oil is no longer present they're not going to last very long, then you'll need new bearings - i.e 7005 matched pair for about £50-£100. Compare that to a few £'s on the right lubricant. However you might find that there's nothing wrong...

    Just looked at the photos again, and it looks like the spindle itself has blackened? Is that just soot? I hope it's not got hot enough to anneal the collet taper, as that would clearly be a big problem.
    I didn't realise you meant I could potentially grease/oil them up again, I thought I would be opening it up to see if the bearing needed replacing or not. I also didn't realise new bearings would cost so much!

    On reflection I think your right and it's worth a look.

    You mention it getting hot enough to anneal the collet taper, forgive my ignorance but why would this be an issue?

    Thanks.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by cncJim View Post
    You mention it getting hot enough to anneal the collet taper, forgive my ignorance but why would this be an issue?
    The spindle shaft is machined from a grade of steel which can subsequently be hardened and ground. This is necessary to ensure that the wear caused by changing the tool/collet doesn't wear the taper out (much), which would lead to high run-out. If yours has been heated above a certain temperature (which depends on the grade of steel), it will be softened and will wear out much more quickly. The temperature range is quite wide though, and we've not really got much idea how hot it got, although the colour can be an indication of that. Either way it's hard to tell...
    Last edited by Jonathan; 24-01-2014 at 11:03 PM. Reason: excessive punctuation
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

  4. #4
    Jim I'd strip it just to be safe better spending 60mins and £1 worth of grease than 2 weeks waiting and £150 for new spindle or even £80 on bearings.
    Like Jon says there's nothing to it other than plucking up the balls to do it.!!

    Wouldn't worry to much about the annealing has while it could have I doubt it did because it didn't fire up and the amount of heat required to anneal would have set the wood on fire.!!

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Wouldn't worry to much about the annealing has while it could have I doubt it did because it didn't fire up and the amount of heat required to anneal would have set the wood on fire.!!
    Yeah, to be fair I think you're right. According to wikipedia(!) the annealing temperature for steel is between 260°C and 760°C, depending on the grade, so if you compare that to the autoignition temperature for oak, which is around 250°C applied for 5 mins...it's probably fine.
    Last edited by Jonathan; 24-01-2014 at 11:14 PM.
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Yeah, to be fair I think you're right.
    It has been known from time to time.!. .

  7. #7
    Back to the Potential fire and E-stop then I've seen Larger machines use a Rope E-stop with rope that runs around the machine that can be pulled from anywhere on the machine and activate the E-stop.!!

    Oh by the way I'd already seen these pics fews weeks ago and asked Jim if he'd please post because it's important to show just how powerful and potentially dangerous even small machines can be.
    I see it often people saying " Not botherd about E-stop because the steppers will stall or spindle will stall " or " I'll just switch it off at the wall" but they don't realise the full power even medium torque steppers can have when attached to ballscrews or how like a startled rabbit your froze on the spot for what seems like minutes but is nano seconds and by the time your brains recovered from the shock and told your arm to do something it's all just too late.!!
    It's not until you actualy have some thing like this happen or see stationery 12mm cutter punch a hole thru 30mm of bed like it was punching butter do you stand back and say "OH SHITE".!!

    So thanks for sharing Jim and Boy's he deserves some Thank's so get clicking. .
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 25-01-2014 at 12:02 AM.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Back to the Potential fire and E-stop then I've seen Larger machines use a Rope E-stop with rope that runs around the machine that can be pulled from anywhere on the machine and activate the E-stop.!!

    Oh by the way I'd already seen these pics fews weeks ago and asked Jim if he'd please post because it's important to show just how powerful and potentially dangerous even small machines can be.
    I see it often people saying " Not botherd about E-stop because the steppers will stall or spindle will stall " or " I'll just switch it off at the wall" but they don't realise the full power even medium torque steppers can have when attached to ballscrews or how like a startled rabbit your froze on the spot for what seems like minutes but is nano seconds and by the time your brains recovered from the shock and told your arm to do something it's all just too late.!!
    It's not until you actualy have some thing like this happen or see stationery 12mm cutter punch a hole thru 30mm of bed like it was punching butter do you stand back and say "OH SHITE".!!

    So thanks for sharing Jim and Boy's he deserves some Thank's so get clicking. .
    Thanks jazz, I was (am!) amazed how powerful my steppers/ballscrews are. I tried putting all my weight on my machine and couldn't see much movement at all so seeing the machine bend as much as it did was a big surprise!

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Back to the Potential fire and E-stop then I've seen Larger machines use a Rope E-stop with rope that runs around the machine that can be pulled from anywhere on the machine and activate the E-stop.!!
    I've install many a mile of trip wire on conveyor belt systems, it used to make great washing lines for my Mother too.

  10. #10
    So I have finally got round to taking my spindle apart to check the bearings and I am a bit stuck...

    All has come apart fine except for the black part that connect to the main silver body. I have removed the screws but it will not budge

    Any ideas?
    (I will try and post some pics tonight)

    Jim
    Last edited by cncJim; 07-02-2014 at 10:42 AM.

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