Sturdy and Fast all Steel CNC , my first build

[EddyCurrent]

After your problems it's looking nice, I like the colour.

[Lee Roberts]

After your problems it's looking nice, I like the colour.

+1

[ba99297]

Syliavski nice work. Congladulations!!!!
How thick steel plate did you finally use and what is the weight of the gantry ( so far without Z axis)?

[Boyan Silyavski]

After your problems it's looking nice, I like the colour.

Thanks! I like to discuss here in detail the so called "problems" , not cause they are real problems, especially for a metalworker with the proper tools, machine and workshop.

I would rather say difficulties for the DIYer on the cheap where solutions have to be with what you have at hand and at the same time aiming precision.

What did you use to build the dams to hold the epoxy? I can't quite make out the detail in the photos.

Some post back you can see it on the photos. Alu angle profile, 10x10x1mm x 1m, very cheap. Instant glued to the frame and then hot glued from outside.

Its seems the epoxy is ok, as far as common sense is used, the profile is clean and 10mm margin is left from the bearing rail, as it/the epoxy/ tends to rise 5mm from the contact point with the margin, whatever the material.

PS:
-When lifting the angles or whatever you use to form the dams , it is wiser to clamp here and there the epoxy and always take care not to lift it ,break it or chip it.
-when drilling for the rails which for example are screwed with M5 screw, first mark the holes, drill with 6mm drill then center 4.2mm drill, drill and the tap M5. So the epoxy around the holes will not bother you, lift or chip, or heat and lift.
-with time , especially temperature changes can make the epoxy very easy to unglue. Clamping it is necessary in this case.

+1

Thanks! Great forum :-) and a lot of help.

Syliavski nice work. Conglatulations!!!!
How thick steel plate did you finally use and what is the weight of the gantry ( so far without Z axis)?

10mm steel plates, laser cut. Laser cutting the holes saves a lot of fiddling but care should be taken cause some long and thin section parts are not perfectly straight on their surface plain, so should be checked against straight edge where necessary and plastic mallet used to straighten them.

Now looking back at the drawings, instead of 0.5mm and 1mm bigger than the respective M screw size, i would advise at least 2mm bigger diameter. The paint eats it, the straightness eats it, adjustment eats it, so i constantly had to mount, check, unmount and open more the holes. Say if you have M6 screw, the hole from the beginning should have been 8mm diameter

[Lee Roberts]

Thanks! Great forum :-) and a lot of help.

Hi,

Your welcome Silyavski, from your build log came great discussion and realisation for others.

So, thank YOU for sharing your adventures and returning help to others, the results are a great forum and community.

In unity everyone can be successful, this is my original goal.

.Me

[HipoPapi]

Hi,

Thanks for shearing your design and experiences is looking really good so far. I am planning to build a similar cnc router with a working area of 1100mm by 600mm and 250 on the Z. I still have to figure out how to solve the z axes as the longest bit that I need to use is 250mm by 22mm dia and has to be able to travel on top of the 250mm material block.
I have noticed earlier that you had some issues with temperature changes which has me a bit worried as I need to build the machine at normal temperature but it will have to work at -5 degrees Celsius. Common sense tells me that since it will be in there all the time everything will shrink at the same time so hopefully I should not have problems.
Could you please tell me how much this project cost you so far everything included.

Thanks again for shearing.

[Boyan Silyavski]

Hi,

Thanks for shearing your design and experiences is looking really good so far. I am planning to build a similar cnc router with a working area of 1100mm by 600mm and 250 on the Z. I still have to figure out how to solve the z axes as the longest bit that I need to use is 250mm by 22mm dia and has to be able to travel on top of the 250mm material block.
I have noticed earlier that you had some issues with temperature changes which has me a bit worried as I need to build the machine at normal temperature but it will have to work at -5 degrees Celsius. Common sense tells me that since it will be in there all the time everything will shrink at the same time so hopefully I should not have problems.
Could you please tell me how much this project cost you so far everything included.

Thanks again for shearing.

Sorry have been busy. I have all mounted and finishing electronics and cables.

-So it seems there will be no problem following the design and making 250-300mm Z. Most wisely it seems is to make the sides of the construction deeper, by making the stairs like profiles a bit longer and the Z, keeping everything else same.

-2700-3200eur in materials, depends on how you deal with customs. using quality cables and so.



Now i before i update with pictures and details i have a question. Please sb. help cause my ignorance here is astonishing! I thought all was simple and obvious, but...

I have a toroidal transformer 2x50VAC and Power Regulator Board PSU. So one side of the board says AC1 AC2 AC3 AC4. Here i connect AC1, AC2 to the 50VAC1 and AC3,AC4 to the 50VAC 2.
At the other side it says VDC+ VDC+ Ground Ground Ground VDC- VDC-, so as i need 70VDC i connected Both VDC+ together for the + and both VDC- together for the -, but now i gave 140VDC measured between + and -. What i am missing??? i remember the time at school when + was + and -was-, something changed these years or what?





PS: PSU problem resolved, Neale helped me here http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7659-...9481#post59481