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02-12-2014 #1
I didn't measure this directly. It's based on a difference in heights of rail of 1mm and a rail spacing of 1m. Looking at the hiwin catalogue, I think they say that the bearing blocks can tolerate a slight rotation around the rail, and a height difference of 0.26mm (20mm rail, 1m spacing). This is a lot more than the figure that Silyavski has given, but I might have misunderstood something.
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02-12-2014 #2
Only the 1 micron (you wrote 0.001mm) seemed to tight. The angle is correct, the level deviation on 20 mm is 0,02 as my dwg says
It is one magnitude bigger but I do not think it has too big impact on a router-by the way I would not be satisfied either with 1 mm on 1 m because deviations accumulates according to the Murphy catalogue
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02-12-2014 #3
Perfectly correct, Vargai - I forgot to multiply the "1 in a 1000" ratio by the width of the rail. I've slapped my own wrist...
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03-12-2014 #4
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31-01-2016 #5
Hello everybody
I am happy that i restart my project
Many things had happened during the last year, that make me stop any kind of progress
That until August when i decide to restart, but first i had to make some changes in my working place
The most important was that the floor was worn and all these years was a source of dust.
That was the situation before
I decided that i must lay tiles and keep one place with some kind of heavy duty concrete, in order to be able to weld, as tiles even if they are very hard though they are not suitable for such jobs
First i had to clear the floor from old paint
Two days of water blasting with my karcher finally make possible this
Then i begun to lay tiles
It was the first time for me that i lay tiles in such a big scale ( 80 m2), and i lay them diagonally
Finally the result is this
I had the chance to paint. I decide to paint with oil paint the first one meter and the rest with water color
Then i had to make the "baby room". Yes thats right!!!! the place that i will put the cnc. I had some old aluminum doors and i dont want to sell them for scrap. I also had some drop ceiling parts, so i use them all and i made this
Yesterday i move the frame and all the components in order to restart building
As you can see the machine is rolling on 4 wheels. That makes the removal of the machine very easy
Finally the "baby" get in the new house
So Today i start working again on the machine.
Nice feeling
First i had to cut some ruber parts for the adjustable feets
So far that is my progress
I will continue tomorrow
Thanks for your time
VagelisThe creative adult, is the child who survived
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01-02-2016 #6
Looking Good Vagelis. Nice and cool. . .
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01-02-2016 #7
Dean thanks for your good words
As more than a year has passed since my last attemp of rails intalation, today i go on
I had some questions that i wrote 1,5 year ago (30-11-2014 #171).
I repeat them in order to understand what level of accuracy i have to achieve
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#1 ( very important to know what I am trying for )
When you measure the flatness of a beam ( or epoxy surface) against a straight edge, what is the acceptable tolerance-gap ( so we assume the surface is straight) . I use light to understand whether my top beams attach the straight edge. The touching points can be easily seen. But at other points althought i can see that there is no touch ( light passes through) , the 0,02mm Gap Filler cant pass through the gap. So what is the critical gap ? the light passing test ( that is less than 0,02mm ) or the 0,02mm gap filler test?
#2
When someone use the solution with the adjustable top beams ( without epoxy) or the shimming method how does he succeed to have the top rails in the same plane. How does he know when the two rails ( left and right ) are in the same plane?
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Hiwin maual (among others) has this table that says ( if i read right the table) that the height H of a rail has a range +- 0.1 mm for normal accuracy rails
Thanks for your time
VagelisLast edited by ba99297; 02-02-2016 at 06:39 PM.
The creative adult, is the child who survived
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