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  1. Yes there is a plugging already available for mach 4.
    This is the link the encoder module.
    http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/elec...io-ip-s-a.html
    however, you would typically fit a servo to the spindle to get the best from it for tapping.
    If the existing spindle is a high speed spindle, it is unlikely you will be able to tap with it, due to the lack of torque at the lower speeds.

    Quote Originally Posted by Chaz View Post
    Thanks, yes, sorry, that's what I meant. I ordered the controller about an hour ago to get it for the weekend on the basis that I was fairly certain it was correct.

    Does this controller work with Mach 4?

    Which of the modules is the encoder module? Are you able to link it please? Also, how would I know, what do I look for that might be able to indicate if its needed or not?

  2. #2
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 22 Hours Ago Has a total post count of 1,653. Received thanks 115 times, giving thanks to others 71 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Yes and No.
    Yes there is a Plug-in for M4 but it's still in Testing phase and not yet 100% stable so I'd recommend you don't Bother.
    The good thing is with M4 you can run it along side M3 without interfering with each other so testing M4 is easy if you want to try it and won't wreck your normal working M3 setup.



    I've had a quick look at schematic and it's a DC spindle with no sign of encoder so wouldn't worry about it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gary View Post
    Yes there is a plugging already available for mach 4.
    This is the link the encoder module.
    http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/elec...io-ip-s-a.html
    however, you would typically fit a servo to the spindle to get the best from it for tapping.
    If the existing spindle is a high speed spindle, it is unlikely you will be able to tap with it, due to the lack of torque at the lower speeds.
    Thanks both.

    Ive installed Mach 3 and 4 to look around. Previously I used Planet CNC which I became familiar with.

    Can I test both of these before buying a license (demo period or similar)?

    In terms of 4th axis, how difficult, using this IP-A controller, would it be to get the older electronics for a 4th axis? Not sure if its possible to run different controllers or not (irrespective of cost)?

  3. #3
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 18 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 2,964. Received thanks 368 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    Yes, you can use Mach3 and 4 in Demo mode. Mach3 has a few features disabled (run from here is main one, but there are a couple others I've forgotten) and has a limit on the number of lines of G-code it'll run. Mach 4 just stops working after a random amount of time and needs restarted.
    .
    Regarding testing the servos, find the two wires to the drives that provided the +/-10V input, power up the drives, and using a 1.5V battery in series with about a 100ohm resistor (you can do it without the resistor, but it provides some protection if you happen to try connecting to the wrong wires/pins) connect it across the +/-10V input wires, then try reversing the connection. The servos should turn reasonably slowly in both directions, which lets you know the servos and drives are working.
    .
    Another option for a Controller, would be a Dynomotion KFlop + Kanalog combo (along with possibly a Konnect to gain more IO). The Kanalog gives you differential encoder inputs along with analogue inputs and outputs, while still retaining the option to use step/dir. However it is a more complicated controller to setup, and you have order direct from over the pond.
    .
    Personally, before you commit to buying a controller, I'd suggest making up a list (I make a spreadsheet) of all the inputs and outputs you're going to need, and what type of input/output i.e. analogue/digital/voltage, along with anything you may like to add in the future.
    If you post the list up here, I'm sure people on here will quite happily check it over. Going from your initial list, things like limit switches don't need connected to the controller. Connect them up via the E-stop circuit, with a manual override push switch to bypass them if you do run into them. When you first start, it seems like a good idea to monitor every single switch, but in reality/use, you soon realise it's not needed.
    Actually having scanned over your list again, I suspect the top limit switches should actually be the homing switches/sensors, as you also mention over limit switches further down.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  4. #4
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 22 Hours Ago Has a total post count of 1,653. Received thanks 115 times, giving thanks to others 71 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by m_c View Post
    Yes, you can use Mach3 and 4 in Demo mode. Mach3 has a few features disabled (run from here is main one, but there are a couple others I've forgotten) and has a limit on the number of lines of G-code it'll run. Mach 4 just stops working after a random amount of time and needs restarted.
    .
    Regarding testing the servos, find the two wires to the drives that provided the +/-10V input, power up the drives, and using a 1.5V battery in series with about a 100ohm resistor (you can do it without the resistor, but it provides some protection if you happen to try connecting to the wrong wires/pins) connect it across the +/-10V input wires, then try reversing the connection. The servos should turn reasonably slowly in both directions, which lets you know the servos and drives are working.
    .
    Another option for a Controller, would be a Dynomotion KFlop + Kanalog combo (along with possibly a Konnect to gain more IO). The Kanalog gives you differential encoder inputs along with analogue inputs and outputs, while still retaining the option to use step/dir. However it is a more complicated controller to setup, and you have order direct from over the pond.
    .
    Personally, before you commit to buying a controller, I'd suggest making up a list (I make a spreadsheet) of all the inputs and outputs you're going to need, and what type of input/output i.e. analogue/digital/voltage, along with anything you may like to add in the future.
    If you post the list up here, I'm sure people on here will quite happily check it over. Going from your initial list, things like limit switches don't need connected to the controller. Connect them up via the E-stop circuit, with a manual override push switch to bypass them if you do run into them. When you first start, it seems like a good idea to monitor every single switch, but in reality/use, you soon realise it's not needed.
    Actually having scanned over your list again, I suspect the top limit switches should actually be the homing switches/sensors, as you also mention over limit switches further down.
    Thanks. Ive bought the CSLabs IP-A already. It should arrive tomorrow and hopefully I can get some movement this weekend. Theoretically I could get a fair bit of progress unless I run into some issues. The ATC needs a few parts but if I can get basic movement, Ill be OK with that. There are 2 sets of switches from what I can see on the drawing, one set is absolute limit switches and then the others are Datum / Zero. On a 3D printer the absolute limit ones would have been referred to as the + limits and - limit is normally the Zero position.

    Also agree, dont need a lot connected to get basic movement and will wire in the bits that I need, as I need it.

  5. #5
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 22 Hours Ago Has a total post count of 1,653. Received thanks 115 times, giving thanks to others 71 times.
    OK, so some progress.

    Completed:-

    Converted most of the power system to single phase. Need to still sort out the coolant pump however.
    Removed the old PC to make space for the CS Labs controller.
    Looked at a lot of the wiring, for a long time.
    Worked out that from the 3 Axis connectors that used to go to the old PC, I can basically input and output to that 15 Way D sub connector to get encoder signals out and speed reference in as well as satisfying some of the logic requirements.
    Worked out where the Spindle Drive 0-10V can be connected to on the standard block. Some of the logic that enables the drive I am not sure about yet.

    Fairly happy with the progress although so much to look at and find on other sheets / cross reference, takes ages.

    All going to plan, I should be able to move all drives and start the spindle tomorrow unless there is a unit faulty or something goes wrong (hope not).

    Will use a laptop at first to setup the CS Labs unit and get going until I can build a PC into the cabinet. Not sure about space as the CSLabs unit takes a fair whack of space, might make another plan.

  6. #6
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 22 Hours Ago Has a total post count of 1,653. Received thanks 115 times, giving thanks to others 71 times.
    Fun fun fun ...



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  7. #7
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 18 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 2,964. Received thanks 368 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    Looks like you're making reasonable progress.
    .
    One thing I meant to mention in my last post, is are you sure the coolant pump will run on single phase? Just because it's marked to work on 240V, it will most likely be for 3 phase 240V.
    AC induction motors that run from single phase require a start or run capacitor, whereas 3 phase don't, as well as having different internal coil wiring, so it's highly unlikely the same motor will run from both 3 phase and single phase.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  8. #8
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 22 Hours Ago Has a total post count of 1,653. Received thanks 115 times, giving thanks to others 71 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by m_c View Post
    Looks like you're making reasonable progress.
    .
    One thing I meant to mention in my last post, is are you sure the coolant pump will run on single phase? Just because it's marked to work on 240V, it will most likely be for 3 phase 240V.
    AC induction motors that run from single phase require a start or run capacitor, whereas 3 phase don't, as well as having different internal coil wiring, so it's highly unlikely the same motor will run from both 3 phase and single phase.
    Oh, not sure actually. Will leave it for now, will try it later and see. Else a small VFD might be required.

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