Warco Major CNC build log

[BillTodd]

Did you use a parallel or similar between the bed and the DTI? It helps to smooth out bed irregularities.

My base was shimmed from new. The shims are brass coloured and less than 1 thou" (fitted near the bolts).

BTW Don't get too carried away - the head on these things can be flexed a few thou" with not too much trouble.

Next, tramming it 'cause it ain't square

I chucked up a dti on a 9cm radius and measured to the bed at 4 points of the compass. Plus is a dip, minus is a bulge.

North 0.0"
East -0.004"
South +0.0035"
West -0.0087"

As I measured each point I drew a circle around the DTI tip so I could measure all four points moving the bed rather than the dti...

North 0.0"
East +0.002"
South +0.001"
West +.0025"

Yes, my column is out of square and the bed is a ski jump :nope:

RS do pre-cut shims with a MOQ of 10, so I ordered the 0.05mm (0.002")

Never tried this before, think I need 8 of them and a bed skim :whistling:

[Robin Hewitt]

Did you use a parallel or similar between the bed and the DTI? It helps to smooth out bed irregularities.

I measured it two ways to compensate for the lumpy bed, but seem to have cocked up :nope:

I reckon my -4 mils East measurement was actually a +4 mils, giving a +-6 mil East West tilt. I mean the tilt has to show even either side, doesn't it? :whistling:

6 mils over a 9cm radius translates to nigh on 0.3mm of packing at the column base, it's around 0.1 degrees out. I could see it was a bit bent when facing with larger endmills but didn't think it was that far out.

New plan. I have some 0.47mm brass sheet, I'll put a strip of that down the West side of the column base then shim the East side until it comes true(ish).

Not much of a plan, but hey, it's a plan. Now where did I put my piercing saw? :naughty:

[Robin Hewitt]

BTW Don't get too carried away - the head on these things can be flexed a few thou" with not too much trouble.

How anal is too anal? :naughty:

It is now 0.005 degrees out east/west and 0.002 degrees out north/south. Trying to resist going for better but whaddya do.

Started on attempt #2 at a faster spindle because the bearings are unhappy if I try to run the main spindle up to credible small tool speeds.

The fast spindle is an ER11 chuck fitted to the honking plate and driven using a 1:3 timing belt off the main spindle.

Same axial bearings and Belleville washers that have served me well so far, but less than the 1/4 ton preload this time.

I've been looking at those splendid tool location doo-dads based on an electrical contact between tool and workpiece. As featured on this very site

To that end I have added Tufnol insulators to the shaft housing. No electrical contact between tool and machine body until it hits the workpiece.

[Robin Hewitt]

Spindle housing now bolted together and impossible to assemble :nope:

Have to add a bit of internal clearance so the pulley can get past the belt :whistling:

Measured the resistance top to bottom, slightly worried when I found 8 million Ohms then realised I was in the circuit. Moved fingers and it went away

[Robin Hewitt]

Stuck waiting for bits

Did add an air driven spindle lock, now working on the suds nozzles.

Bill says it's a z axis lock and he's right

[BillTodd]

Stuck waiting for bits

Did add an air driven spindle lock, now working on the suds nozzles.

Is that a spindle lock or a Z axis lock?

Have you a picture of the whole 'honking plate' z axis? (looks good :))

[Robin Hewitt]

Is that a spindle lock or a Z axis lock?

Have you a picture of the whole 'honking plate' z axis? (looks good :))

By Jingo you're right, I used the wrong word :heehee:

You want a picture from a different angle?

Have to fix a front gate this afternoon. Strict instructions, on pain of nagging :naughty:

[BillTodd]

You want a picture from a different angle?

Just a wider angle showing the whole of the axis would be good :)

[Robin Hewitt]

Testing out my new quill lock then the quill jammed

Two hours finding the problem. Thought I'd got cast iron dust in the guide when I drilled the holes for the pneumatics. Hadn't. Though the clamp was binding. Wasn't. Thought I'd deformed the quill with excessive locking force. Didn't. Thought it had to be gunge, fetched the quill out and got it clean enough to eat off. Did no good.

If your Warco quill seizes up for no apparent reason and defies all efforts to free it I have the solution. 2 minute job, miracle cure, no disassembly required, will cost you a bottle of Hobgoblin posted to Sussex :naughty:
Quill now tracks up and down easy peasy, the Z depth on the computer screen agrees with the linear scale on the mill +-0.01mm moving in either direction. However, cutting forces can put them up to .05mm out. Hence pneumatic quill lock.

Yes, I know 0.05 is only 2 thou