Quote Originally Posted by Juranovich View Post
I'm not jumping on the who-did-or-said-what train, but I will say that I appreciate all the advise I can get. Different perspectives only make my understanding deeper. As a beginner my main mental hurdle is to differentiate between the theoretical and practical side of things (which often don't go hand in hand). Naturally, I can only find out my capabilities by actually taking the plunge, but before I do that I do want (at least try) to make my plans as doable as possible, considering my level of competence. To this end, hearing different perspectives only helps me better understand all the pitfalls I might be up against. In the end I'd rather have a well built, but less advanced machine than a poorly assembled, but in theory top tier machine...
I’m sorry for my rather irritable last post. I was having a bad night due to pain when I came across JazzCNC’s attacking reply.

I can’t understand elitist advice who say that because I have never used a product that I cannot pass on advice I was given when I was shopping for a 2.2kw water cooled spindle for my machine.

I spent several months deliberating. I wanted a quieter setup you see.

But time after time I got the advice that while a water cooled spindle was great that an air cooled one would be better for my setup. Less hassle, less weight. It’s also the reason that last summer I rebuilt my gantry with heavier gauge uprights to support a spindle.

Jazz is 100% right that a good design with a heavier gauge setup is great and all but getting one is going to cost a lot more money. But calling the smaller machines shite and then praising the tiny eBay machines is bonkers.

If you can afford it, get a heavier gauge gantry with linear bearings and digital drives like Jazz says. Then a water cooled spindle is a no brainier. But that means a more expensive control setup. It means purchasing Mach 3 or 4. More money. Paying to have custom plates made. Yup, more money. It can get expensive fast.

What many here missed was that your original post said you want your machine to work with wood. Someone disparaged a belt driven design and Jazz actually shot them down saying don’t knock it until you try it and then yesterday he said my machine is crap because it’s driven by elastic bands lol.

Every design has pros and cons. I would love a good quality built machine but you have to be precise in building it or it ends up outputting inaccurate parts. The stiffer the build, the more accurate it will be... but the more dense it is, the heavier it is and you get sagging. Not a lot but engineers fret about parts of a millimetre.

So that’s where the aluminium extrusion system came in. Lighter beams, using a router instead of a dedicated spindle, lighter general stepper motors, grbl instead of mach3... yet still the machine can cut wood projects fine. I’ve been cutting 18mm thick plywood quite nicely on my “shite” machine.

My machine is 1.5m x 1m and it works great for what I use it for. I’ve actually fixed a few of the base machine faults (like no limit homing switches, double belting to make it closer to a rack and pinion than a belt drive, stiffened up the gantry and used a heavier gauge Z axis... oh and the SuperPID turns the router into a poor mans spindle by giving you computer control of the spindle speed and on/off) but I really wish that the original design thought more about maintenance.

I wish I could afford the things Jazz mentions but realise it’s not something I can afford and in the meantime I’m already cutting parts that are near enough perfect.